crofte

G day, I am looking at buying a stock R33 S1 turbo so i can get it hi flowed. I have a S2 R33 and want to know if there is any difference between the two. Am i going to run into any problems buying a S1 turbo getting it hi flowed and changing it over with mine? can anyone give me some advice? cheers heaps.

HKS???? why has it got garrett on the side?????

I had the same idea a while back. I decided against it because it costs about 4k. Why do you want a manual anyway? Get a shift kit and valve body beef up. supposed to handle 300rwkw. Autos all the way buddy. Boost holds better in a straight line aslo.

Owh i see, Very good. It does work. I thought i was good and i am. What is a good knock reading to have? It has been as high is 70 when i draged a taxi at the lights. anyone ????

What color wires do you have for knock 1+2 , when i did mine r33 S2 i had a clear colour sheeth for both knock sensors. i checked it 3 times but no reading at all. i just gave up in the end, when you get it going let me know what color wire you found it to be.

Could this gates belt problem cause pre detonation (pinging) anyone?

mine works fine. that nut is there to lock off the adjustment. best 22 bucks i ever spent for sure.

I have the same car and it sounds like you have the same problem I had. Get some splitfire coil packs. fixed my missfire on idle and also no more backfire at 4500 rpm. The old ones will be shorting through the plastic jacket.

I would leak test the system first mate. Its illegal in this country to simply re gas refrigeration equipment. If it lost its charge there must be a leak. Get the job done properly and make sure they leak test the system. The figure you mentioned about charge weight sounds about right. You should be looking at a coil TD of around 10 'C across your evaporator coil.

whats so special about these ones ? noise?

I fitted splitfires to my R33 yesterday, i can run higher boost now without the flat spots at 4500 rpm now it revs all the way to 7000 without a cough n fart. I have also been using NGK bcpr6 copper plugs at 0.8 gap. I found that all the stock coilpacks were shorting through the plastic jacket, you could see the burn marks obviously. Its just a pitty splitfires are so stuffen exspensive.

The best way to do this is as follows. Steel your grandpas blood pressure monitor cut off the squeeze pump at the end. Get yourself a boost guage with a psi range, tee it into line with a tee fitting and connect your control to the other end of the tee. Set the control mid range, squeeze the pump gently and keep an eye on the guage when you hear it let go check the guage this is your boost pressure.

Been there vl thermo clutch dont fit the blade.

What about the clutch and pully? Are the suction and discharge sides sealed?

Eng number is down on the block on the pasangers side (right) turbo side, close to firewall end.

I used my pneumatic guage and squieze pump. The turbotech was opening at 9 psi straight into the wastegate actuator. Best way to carry out this simple test by far.

What auto are you puting in? which one is it?

mitsubishi make everything from air conditioners to excavators.

Is it 114.3 7.5x17 does anyone know?

Just unbolt the rack its quicker than doin each coil pack, you have less chance of crossing a cylinder. Down gap to 0.8 use NGK bcpr6es they are ok for about 4 bucks ea. Leave BOV on intake pipe undo hose fittings only. Also remove your cross bar if you have one.

its probably just some religious dude under the bonnet causing the knock.

explain how it works for me?

where do you live buddy?

The cops will lock you up mate. Bad stuff happens to young boys in jail. You dont want to go there buddy.

AVS dahh!