frozenwaffles

alright so just to clarify...if someone said that 4deg retard of the exh cam gera is the 'magic' number for an rb25...is that 4 marks of a cam gear or 2?

engine tuning is a science not a religion.... are you 100% sure?

hey guys, just quickly, when we speak of '4 deg retard' or 3 or whatever, are we talking 4 deg of cam gear adjustments notches or 4 deg of crackshatf movement? as from what i gather 1deg of cam gear movement is the equivelent of 2deg of crackshaft movement...

rb25, copper, 1.0mm, 1bar. 225rwkw

this si the funniest thread i've read in a while!

guilt toy... i would love you help! my wideband goes straight into the datalogit (0-5V:10-20AFR) i am only running 1bar of boost...and dont really wanna go higher... as for how the cylinders reat to diferent temperatures well i dont know the exact science....but i will learn. and uninstalling the fcedit software is not how you learn. if i blow up my engine i dont care....$1500 for a new one or less...whatever...i can hear rattle (as in i know what it sounds like) and i have made it rattle so i know where she absolute boundries are. i and will stay well away form them. i dont want to just drive my car, i want to know 100% how it all work and whats going one...i'll learn about the science too along the way. so if you have any book you suggest i read or anywhere to look then please suggest. have you seen the new map i'm running...the new map has no more than max 9deg adv in the area of n03:p03 to n12:p12 over the default apexi map...everything else is the same... i may have to pull a little timing out of the higher p rows such as 15 onwards...

ok so here are the new pages:

ok so i have checked alot of things. i now have my PLX wideband AFR setup installed (o2 sensor is in down pipe just before the cat) fuel map seems to be more than fine...its just the default apexi map for the RB25. i have strated again with the timing and will repost the timing up very soon...not going quite as hard as before. but event with the first post there was very little knock (all under 20)

hmmm all sounds great guys...keep the talk comming...

hey guys, i have the HPI low mount and its awesome. it was over $1400 for it from justjap...so like wow expensive... but i dont know about you but once you put new gaskets on, new studs/bolts/nuts/etc i wouldnt want to be taking all that off again...the labour is the big killer! so do it right once from the beginning and you wont look back. with the HPI one there was no spacers or anything like that required. my hks gtrs fitted but beautiful. what you will need made up thoug is a BOV return pipe and a new intake pipe and they wont fit at all...

out of intertest, why is there too much timing ? espcially if it not knocking? what do you recomend?

yes yes i realise now. so if you make any adjustment to the ex cam gear, you need to reset/check the base timing. but it still always remains set at 15deg...

i like what you have to say mr dale... one point about the timing light and cas though...because the cas uses the cam for the 'turning' of the sensor...if you set the timing to that then the intake valves are opening at the wrong time. the timing i would imagine needs to be set to the intake cycle rather than the ex as the cas also tells the ecu/pfc when to fire the injectors... so hence my question...if i have 4 deg retard of ex cam timing, the do i set the cas to 11deg base timing or 19deg...

also just something i thought about, if you adjust the ex cam gear you alter the base timing by that amount too...so 4 deg retard would be taking 4 deg out of the base timing as well.... can anyome confirm?

i know factory timing there is around the 43 deg mark there...i'll post up a map of the factory computer settings...

yes yes we know that paul...lol you must love a flatulant car yes?

no i aggree with you there.... but we can atleast say... 'i did this, and this happened' its not about comparing maps but rather tuning techniques. this thread is about tuning and leraning how to tune. i have books and the way from america about advanced efi tuning. this is a personal project and i am interested in getting feedback from people that know more than me if they are interested in helping. i am just getting the ball rolling on here... new info above...

hey guys! ok so this thread is a thread for talking power fc tuning and all associated bits and peices. if you dont like what you see or read here then please save the criticism and go elsewhere...this is a positive thread only please! its also for those who are completely technically minded, so some speculation is allowed as long as you have something to back the speculation up...lets keep it scientific too please. ok so here are my two maps at the moment (if you want to comment on them please do): most of my tuning is done on the road, with ocasional dyno tuning. this tune is 100% road tuned. i will post more info about this tune as i have more time, but right now im at work. my mods are: RB25DET Apexi Power FC with Boost Control Kit Apexi Power Intake Custom Intake Pipe (AFM to turbo) Custom CAI (from front bar to pod) Custom Pod Filter Enclosure HKS Adj Ex Cam Gear (retard 4deg) Nismo 555cc Injectors HKS GTRS Turbo HPI Low Mount Ex Manifold Xforce 3"-3.5" turboback exhaust Just Jap Bar and Plate FMIC Tuning details: CAS position is 15btdc with timing light sensor wrapped around the three wires just before they plug into coilpack on cylinder 1. the loop wire gives a false reading on my battery powered timing light. injector settings in power fc are 66.6% correction and +0.18ms lag adjustment

wow kids these days with no respect.... Duncan kick him in the nuts!

what is a defragilator? can i get one for my car?

when testing on idle, should the vacuum line be removed?

ok so i have blown out the lines with an air gun. the send line seemed to be clear but a whole lotta gunk came out of the return line, may have been caught in the check valve. went to my mechanic to test the fuel pressur and on idle it sits at 2 bar (32psi) is this correct? when it goes on the dyno soon i'll check it right up to 7000rpm...

well then i will buy a gauge....thats not the answer i was looking for...thats the easy option...

hey guys, i am suspecting a block posibly of my return line for my fuel and hence high pressure. i have nismo 555cc injectors and a stock FPR and a GTR pump in my R33 GTST. running power fc with 66.5% correction and 0.18ms lag correction. on idle my car is running at like 9 afr!!! you can just smell the fuel for days but then when she is driving it all seems to be fine, but still a little too rich for my liking... is there a way of checking the fuel pressure short of buying a guage? or at least checking if the return line has a small blockage and hence increasing the pressure?