frozenwaffles

bump for me!

yeah was tops guys, nice to put some names (real ones) and face to forum names....lol looking forward to the next one!

hmmmm go away hail... i have to leave soon to make it on time!

thats a cool trick...will he reveal these powers tonight?

are you guys making fun of me or merlin?

im comming make room!

merlin, i dont have your mobile?

can i come along to this?

there should be a mating plug somewhere under the dash if you are using the factory loom and relay position... it will probably be tied up...not just loose hanging around. if you arnt using the factory wires and all you want to do use the switch, you will need to use a mutimeter to find out how the switch works and which wires are 'switched' if that makes sense...well it makes sense, more if you can understand... anyway i hope you are going well and good luck...things sound a little shakey but im sure you'll work it all out. just be careful....

gtrs is know for its quick response!!! check the forums dude...

why does someone not make a replacement kit that is not $300+ dollars for this...there is the apexi kit but f*&k its expensive...

on that plug down in the engine bay, you have a positive (switched wire) for each of the lights being indicator and fog (the fog is the thikler one due to the increased current) and then a common ground or negative. very simple really. if you dont know this then take your car to an auto electrician...

yes but the thing is there is a special switch that is normally on the right of the steering colum that is for the fog lights. if your car has fog lights from the factory then the switch is there, if not then the wire should still be there just no switch, that is the trigger for the relay. and if you dont have factory fog lights, then there wont be a relay either...

no dont use it it goes somewhere else before it gets to the dash as there would normally be a relay for the oem fog lights. if you want fog lights just buy a narva kit with the relay and all and then use the instructions for wiring...

blue is for fog lights...

well its been a long journey but on my trip back home from the goldcoast today i finally got 10L/100km for my fuel efficiecy!!! this was pretty much 100-110kmph non stop onlong the east coast of australia but we got there! i have an apexi power fc running the base fuel map....with o2 sensor feedback ON! i have tuned the ign map myself but mainly in the 10x10 section. lots of advance, some cells right up to 54deg. my max knock so far is 9.... i swear dyno tuning is a waste of time.... you need a wide band kit and go for a long drive. lots of trial and error. the road uses so many more load points than the dyno and its more 'real world' tuning...funny that! i will take the data logic to oran park soon and have lots of play time on the track!

so where do we get these leds?

here we go:

ok thats a bit of a help...except that low voltage is lean and high is rich...the other way around from what duncan has said... getting some info from bosch right now

hey guys, what do the 0-1v normal output voltages equate to for AFR values? i need to know this to prgram a simulated output from an LC-1 wideband kit to send the narrow band equivelant signal to the ecu...

hey guys im after a wideband o2 kit...who can sell me one???

bring it on peoples! feb should be a fun month!

far out that looks fun but oh so easy to end in tears!

you still got the cam shafts, how much for just the cam shatfts, are they series one or two shafts?

where are you bro?