MBS206

Have you compared it with a properly R&D manifold that doesn't have the dual openings at all? Your comparison is of that inlet being full open VS closed. That doesn't tell us if it is any better then a normal single inlet manifold.

Or duct tape to keep it in?

Don't know about you... But both reece and I beat him in the battles...

XR6T wins on comfy seat. Not hard like most sports cars, lumbar support is good, electrical tilt and height and blah blah blah. Is good... Lol

When i drive my tow car daily... YES!

I'm pondering putting the orange beast in this...

Go and give MDTC a run. If the S13 is well sorted suspension wise, you'll have an absolute ball!

How about this, when I fuel this week, I'll show you my kaya and fuel taken, but do note this tank has been hounded, multiple runs out to redline on full boost. Then when I do my trip to Melbourne down the Hume (with 3 mates in the car luggage and AC) I'll do the same again. And sorry 14.3 is the WORST economy I've seen, but that was a tank of ONLY city driving and not taking it easy.

Also give the Wax and Grease remover from Repco a go, works quite well on most tuff stuff.

Well yes, that's a given, but the argument that was being raised and Pete rebutted, was that purely because a certain vehicle made less power (peak) meant it would use more fuel...

$35 is the cost of the event for a first timer. No more to pay for the event itself. As Eric mentions, you will still need a licence, if you're just getting into things, and mainly are going to try our club days and how most other clubs run, then I would advise you get an AASA licence. $50 from memory and will let you run at most club days like Wakefield Park etc. You will also need a fire extinguisher fitted securely.

mad082, normally you make a bit of sense, but this post, you're looking like a fuel. The amount of power an engine makes does not determine how efficient it is. If that were the case my old Jazz would have drunk the fuel... But it didn't... If you run two engines, that are tuned equally, yet one makes less peak power, when cruising on a freeway, you will use the SAME AMOUNT OF FUEL. If a car takes 50KW to hold it self at cruise, and you drive one car down the freeway that makes peak power of 200KW, and another car that makes peak power of 700KW at the 50KW mark, if they're tuned equally (Engines are equally as efficient, just one gets less air in at the top end) then they'll burn the same fuel at cruise. Remember, you only add the right amount of fuel in, determine by how well the engine can draw air. Take a look at Jap engines for example, back in the mid 90s, and compare them to the mid 90s V8s from America (Compare V8's to V8's) and you will find, that per litre, the Japs actually make more power, why? They get more air in per litre, this means they're more efficient, and better on fuel. Yet the Americans still make more peak power, but they use more fuel. The Commodores/Falcons of today make more power and use less fuel as both companies (And basically every other manufacturer) because they're been forced to lower emmisions, best way to do this, MAKE SOMETHING MORE VOLUMETRICALLY EFFICIENT! By detuning a vehicle (By pulling timing) yes you've lost power, and will use more fuel, but you've also made the engine less efficient in the process. And Harry, mate, if you're not willing to accept what people are getting in real world terms, maybe you should buy one of these cars and go report your findings? Either that or just stop arguing. I'm giving you REAL WORLD FIGURES, not some bull shit that I read on the internet.

In regards to fuel consumption, I get below them all the time. 2008 FG XR6T, pure city driving, stop start everywhere driving on cold maps most of the time, 14.3L/100KM. Now under what is stated, I'm 2.2 L below the claimed city usage, even if I remove 5% kays to make up for your shit about odometers being out (why yes, speedo is, odometer isn't on new cars. You can test this by resetting the odometer driving exactly 5km at those odometer checks and seeing it hits 5kms when you reach the end... ) then my fuel is still 15L/100km... Which is still below stated... Not to mention add around 100 to 150km of freeway driving, sometimes 200kms and my fuel Econ sits at 10L/100 for combined I'm pretty sure that puts me below the claimed figure again, an means I'll drop well into single digits on pure Hume highway driving, but I haven't put a tank of pure freeway through it yet. Oh and my driving isn't grandpa spec either, I actually do come on boost alot, and I use cruise moat of the time which chews more fuel. Maybe all fords have their consumption figures inflated, what do you think Dan? Also, my part in brackets, go test it, or mark out exactly 100kms and drive it. Just make sure you drive right beside the line you marked as changing lanes adds distance to your trip, and I'm sure you took this into account when you worked out your odometer is inaccurate, right?

Highway, Towing or around town? From what I've heard of Cruisers they're more in the 14L/100KM range in diesel. No experience myself, just what I've heard from other owners.

I 100% agree with you about not towing with a light vehicle. But by the time I add me, fuel, a couple of things in the boot, and potentially a passenger, the falcon is knocking on the door of 2T. Trying to get my car down to 1300KG minimum (If not lower), and trailer with spare wheels, and tools, 600KG... Car is still sitting 100KG heavier... Although, I'd rather have a 4WD to tow with, more pracitcal with loading stuff up etc, but no where near as practical as a daily driver.

For some reason my mind was just sitting there going "NO WAY! You won't get a BA for that cash..." But it had the XR6 filter turned on... LOL My Bad.

You guys are expecting to pickup decent BAs for 5K... Like... Seriously? Plus, if you want to tow, spend the extra coin in the BA/BF range and get the turbo model. Shit loads more torque and they're effortless to drive. I'm yet to throw a trailer on the back of my FG XR6T, but it will happen very soon. Around town it's great too... Plenty of poke for some mild fun on daily trips, and purely in the city on stop start, I've so far seen the worst of 14L/100KM, on the hume with no trailer on it's in the single digits. I did Wollongong to Goulburn to Wollongong, and then 200odd KM of city driving in stop start and primarily on the cold fuel map, and it still averaged 10L/100KM... Did I mention mid 13second quarters out of the box?

It's why I love my falcon... Peak torque starting at roughly 2500RPM from memory... I spend most of my time driving around town though below 2000RPM... If I feel like going some where quickly I rev it to 3000RPM... If I feel like having some fun I let it swing to redline... LOL Torque and Response FTMFW!

From that list... Patrol.

Back pressure goes "Om nom nom nom"...

It includes compulsory third party. IE, damage to PEOPLE. It won't cover property.

I'll take the car that makes all of its grunt down in the low to mid range rather then up top... That way you just short shift, and stay on power. If it's dead down low on power, it's going to be slow off the mark unless you have a shit load of grip and launch it all the time...

Between the fact that you just said that, and the fact that I just spent nearly 30K on a new tow car/daily biatch is the only reason it wouldn't be sold for a second time

No point doing a DIY. Holden change the engines wayyyy too much to keep things neat like that. I've been finding this the hard way...

For nice and neat, and depending on how long the cut needs to be, you could use a dremel.