MBS206

Not quite.If it's tuned properly you should see better fuel economy. The RB30 runs the same bore, and a longer stroke. For the same amount of fuel/air being burnt, the RB30 will make more torque, as the stroke is longer. Remember torque = force*distance. Therefore you can close the throttle a bit more, to make the same torque. For example if it only needs 50nm (FOR EXAMPLE) to hold 100KM/H, and that's with your motor burning 100ml / min of fuel with a stroke length of 1. If you now double this stroke length, and keep burning the 100ml of fuel, the force on the end of the crank is the same, but the distance is double, therefore you've double your torque. So now for ever 100ml / min of fuel being burnt, you're making 100nm... But you only need 50nm, so you can close the throttle off, and use half the amount of fuel. Obviously volumetric efficiency etc comes into play, but going from a RB25 to an RB25/30 the VE shouldn't change at all... If it's not tuned right though, the same as the smaller motor, it can loose all sorts of cruisability and economy too... A perfect example of this was my old 25/30 as it was never tuned for under 2000RPM properly, so around town it used to get 25L/100KM and I had to cruise every where in 3rd.

The check valve won't let it into the sump. It's what makes the pressure remain in the fuel rail when you turn the pump off. It's normally just on the end of the fuel pump. If it's not working there is nothing to worry about, so long as you prime the rail before trying to start the car each time. The fuel in the sump would be from you starting it every single time and letting it idle rich. Pull the motor, put new bearings in. While you're at it, I highly advise new rings in as well. Then get your dump made, and just give it to a tuner so they can bed the rings on the dyno.

There are two functions for these covers... 1) To force the incoming air through the radiator to aid in cooling instead of going around and over it (It will go over once the bonnet rubber loses its "springyness" and doesn't seal properly. 2) For looks. They're designed to hide the "uglyness" of seeing the back of a FMIC and AC condenser/radiator...

You've had an engine freshly rebuilt. You've been starting it every few days while it's running rich. Two things: Rich cars wash the bores, fuel ends up in the sump. Freshly rebuilt motors don't have rings bedded in, aiding fuel in seeping through. You may be better off for safety's sake, pulling the motor, and putting fresh bearings in it. If fuel isn't seeping out of the injectors once you prime it, then you either have a faulty one way check valve or no one way check valve at all.

Why? Because I'm sick to death of the fact that these people (And others too) do illegal shit to, and in their cars, and then the media and police find out, and now we're a target. My R33 has been resided to the fact of "You don't get cruised on the road any more" because of the public image, and police attention. My road rego, now is only used to get the car to and from the track. I'd have a tow car and trailer, but I have no where to keep one at the moment. You have to remember, everything these guys do, affects the whole community. I watched a P Plater yesterday in an R34 GT give his car full boot in a fairly congested area, grab second, chirp the tyres, and then nearly run up the back of the stationary cars in front. We tried to show them the light, now we've resided to just ridiculing them, sometimes for our, and others amusement, but mainly so that hopefully they realise, being a douche, making their cars illegal, racing on the roads etc, isn't cool. It's the exact same theory the RTA had with the pinky curl ad, while we all laughed at it, it's true that if you did it at some monkey who was driving like a spastic, they started thinking twice about their driving... Same goes for the people in this seection with their driving, and how they modify their cars... Stupidly and illegally.

Guys, something to consider... If you strengthen the front reo, and make it like a huge bull bar, if you do hit something, you're going to bend what it's attached to instead. And that would be the chassis rails. The reo bar, radiator/FMIC are basically "sacrificial" in terms of mild accidents. You would much rather bend and break these pieces, then bend the chassis rails...

Thanks guys, Might be safer then for now to pull the welded diff out, and slip in my spare viscous LSD and just add a shim or two in there (It used to love to open spin). As Zeb said, my R33 is being built just for shits and giggles, and is currently part way through an LS1 with a T56 gearbox conversion. Motor will be completely standard, and just tuned with an exhaust... Expected RW outpu will be around 200 - 220RWKW. With the standard ratio skyline diff, I should be looking at the following speeds for 1st through 4th with a 7000RPM redline... 61 91 124 161 I assume this would be "short enough" considering it's a big displacement V8? You guys mentioned earlier "inserts" for the suspension... I'm going to be completely noob here and say... "Wahhh???". In terms of springs and shocks, are you normally softer or stiffer then circuit/tarmac cars? Currently the car has standard springs and shocks in it, but I was factoring into spending a little bit (Say upto $1500 on new shocks/springs) when I was going to use it for sprinting, and I probably would have bought the BC range of coil overs as I've been seeing some impressive results (VS the price of them), but I am completely in the dark on what would be acceptable in the dirt... I have adjustable upper and lower front camber arms, adjustable upper arms (Once I get back down to Zebra's anyway...), and would just be looking for a good basic shock and spring setup. What would you guys recommend?

At the age of 17 I bought an R33 GTS-t (going back 6 years now) and managed to buy expensive bits and pieces for it... I worked, did school, and paid for my own shit (And no, parents never gave me a cent for cars!) And the point for posting? Because there are so many people that come in here, claiming they've found the best thing out and it'll make the car gazzillion times faster, or better in some way and you can't get defected for it rah rah rah (Cause ZOMG my exhaust is quiet when I flick a switch), yet they're just making their car illegal, and defectable... Half the people posting in this thread, are the same ones who post the other crap threads in this section. Year ago, we used to be polite, and try to empower them with more knowledge, after years of having it thrown back in our faces, we just don't care any more and flame. Do you geddit or has it still not sunk in yet?

Why your car run so rich? Because race car...

Cheap skates was because you see most jap imports with china knock off parts on them. And check the other treads in this section, at least once a week someone starts a thread "omg I thought my car was going to be fast..." Secondly, you must be in this section for going fast... That's why it's the "naturally aspirated PERFORMANCE" section... Although, some people are confused on this and talkabout suspension and general automotive rather then in the suspension and general sections... Maybe there's alot of stupid NA drivers too...

If Cassbo has removed my clutch from his car, I'll have a 4.5kg chrome moly flywheel, 1250kg pressure plate and a standard clutch plate for sale for a couple of hundred... This combo held up behind a skid crazy RB25/30DET for a while and never had a drama. PM me if you're interested...

Omg bro, like fuller sik uleh!!! It sounds more like the commodore guys have all four a good product and use it yet you read fast fours and other junk and it's all "Chiba brand knock ff crap"... You know what it says to me!? NA skyline owners are cheap skates! dream boats...

No... You suck... On a normal year it's 1543.95 posts a year... On a leap year it's 1548.18... You fail... Just like your dads condom...

Zeb... My N/A skyline will be a total performance car... Be driven like it oughtta be... And you know it!

I think the comment was made with sarcasm... The same way the rest of us were taking the piss and blaming the gauges for wrecking motors...

I like the sound of it just going straight off throttle... I do no like cars that try to step under brakes... I'd rather it understeer under brakes, over steer on the throttle... Suppose it'll be a try it and see... From what you're saying with camber and caster, it sounds like the same type of setup you'd want for a hill climb. This suits my needs perfectly! As for winning trophies... I'm into motor sport for the shits and giggles... If I wanted trophies I'd be looking at something more then AMSAG where it's open season on what you can do... LOL

To the guys who dirt rally RWD cars... What is the general consensus on a locked diff in a RWD? I noticed the general consensus on the FWD was a no, but is this the same for RWD? After toying with every possible idea in my head for gravel rallying, I keep coming back to having a cage fitted to my R33 and taking it to AMSAG... It's been lightened a bit in the front because I've shoved a dirty V8 in there (AMSAG allow what ever I want...), it's running close ratio basically thanks to the Commodore box and skyline diff (Topping 4th out at 150KM/H at 6500RPM from my calculations) the only two things I'd be missing are: Cage, Sump, gearbox and diff bash guards. Maybe tweak the suspension a little bit, but it is sitting nice and high at the momen as it still has stock springs and coils. My other question is, what are people finding suspension alignment wise that they do for the rally cars? run alot or very little camber/caster/toe?

So... I heard there'll be like skids an shit...

I've had 3 engines in my car... The first let go with all gauges connected. The second let go on it's first venture with all gauges connected The third lasted a lot longer then the other two, purely because I only had the tacho and boost gauge connected... Reconnected oil pressure and the motor shit itelf 6 hours later... Fourth motor is going in at the moment... Edit: Oh, and LOVE those pics!!!

You should make it reliable and fit an LS1... I freamnof LS1 twin turbo with attessa...

So while searching for some info I thought Neil posted I found this... See Neil... It's all Brad's fault for wrecking Duncan's car...

So, more shit ordered for Brad to keep going on this for me... Starter motor should arrive by Friday at my place for it. Also need to give a big thanks to Chris from Craved Coatings, many moons ago I sent him a heap of crap and went "Do stuff with it yeah?", I did tell him that I had no rush for it, as it was going to be a long project, and I emphasised this (When you actaully want stuff quickly he turns it around quickly!) but I got my gear back, and it looks SUPERB! I'll get some photos up of his stuff soon. I've had Chris do a few bits and pieces now, and his work is ALWAYS superb, at good prices! Seriously, send him your shiznit for powder coating!

Hey Guys, Just quickly messaged Dave before, very quick to respond and easy to deal with. Waiting for some stuff to be sent up COD by him and will update you all when it arrives. So far so good.

Ah fair enough. I think I'm going to end up hacking up a standard dash pretty soon. Mine still has road rego (Don't ask me why... LOL), so I'm thinking of ways to keep things functional, relatively legal, yet "raceable"

You will need to make sure you get the correct AFM though as well.