MBS206

And in terms of air pressure sensing, they call it a filter... The pulsing is referred to as "noise". And it's designed to filter out the noise.

Can't rev the engine whilst cold. It's not perfectly tuned yet for cold starts etc, it will only idle. The head is coming off, I've heard there is a proper way to pressure test them. I want to know how so I can. Heads being pulled no matter what soon, not because of the Valve Stem Seals.

Stereos... What are they?

Hence why I love my dirty 30... 60 Degrees advanced on the inlet, 60 degrees retarded on the exhaust, never touched a single valve into a piston...

I'd be going with the bent stud or bolt. Mine walked off majorly when the tensioner didn't sit flush. Pull it all off and check it.

The one I have is near on perfect with compression. Luck of the draw really. But now I appear to have either head issues or turbo issues... And I couldn't justify more then the $660 I spent in total that got me a clutch as well. Pistons/bearings and then paying someone to do the machine work... Not the way i treat it... As for what'll break first... I'm trying for a piston through the block, or a bent rod at least...

I like the way you work... Sounds a bit like mine, except I didn't even rebuild it... Just need to change a few things, then push its limits...

I'm seeing LOTS of smoke... At the moment the turbo is, and it all appears fine... That's the problem... I'm seeing a SHITLOAD of smoke once I boost up for 2 - 3 seconds, and a shitload if I pump it back to 3rd gear at around 130 - 140KM/H with closed throttle.

Hey guys, I'm probably going to be pulling my head off again within the next few months, and would like to know, how do you test the valve stem seals properly when the head is off. I read a post where Trent was saying that when they change them, they have to pressure test them (which you can't do when you leave the head on and do them with the special tool) so I'd like to know, how you do test them? I want to pull the head to put an oil restrictor in, and also to change the valve springs (I know I can do it with head on, but I want to put the restrictor in too) at the same time, I'd like to pressure test the valve stem seals in case they're shot...

It appears to be a pressure line, with a filter in it, and the part that was in it, has been removed and just blocked. Possibly a electronic boost controller

Precision make a forged RB30DET one as well (Or did when I looked it all up about 6 months ago) I had pricing for them.

Sounds like the tune mine has... LOL Fouls plugs if you let it idle for 20 - 30 minutes...

1... Throw that idea in the bin. 2... Sell me your 25 head and forward facing plenum. 3... You go buy a 26dett head. 4... 5... No profit, but lots of win... As for my turdbro... Ignore my engine bay, as LOTS has changed since this pic...

The only thing I get from pedestrians is "Cool skyline! Do a skid!" PS: I'm not a 100% law abiding citizen, but I don't like dumping the clutch, hence no skids for them.

+1 But I'll still be ripping skids at Texi!

I need some one to entertain me on satday and a place to crash or me no makey!

Who's actually coming?

Will enter this weekend.

And you call yourself a fan...

Those who have to prep cars care... I also care, because I want to see the photo taken 4 seconds later...

Can I wear my transformers jacket?

5 Screws and centre console is out too... With the PERFECT location to mount extinguisher with ZERO mods.

Do you know what would happen if it were left disconnected? (As in blocked)

Guys I was just doing some casual reading AGAIN on the RB30DOHC guide, and in relation tot heR33 RB25 head, it claims you will need to: "The R33 RB25 also requires you to plumb in an external head oil return, you can T in to the turbo drain." What is the external head oil return it speaks of? Is this the standard one at the front of the head that needs to be T'd in? I'm on my second RB30DOHC motor, and never had this fitted... What issues are normally seen if this isn't plumbed in?

If you're taking things out for the day, take the center console out, there are 2 bolts that are used for NOTHING under there that are the perfect distance apart for you to just bolt the extinguisher in.