MBS206

Greenslips from everywhere this year seem to have increased in price around $350. It's not just Skylines, it's ALL CARS.

Not yet, I'm waiting for Nick to speak to his people, and get his people to contact my people, and go from there. I've got quotes at the moment for some good electrical ones at $100 a piece (For oil temp, pressure and water temp) But I don't have a guage on hand to wack in

Bush bearing, so I was told not too... But I'm going to grab an oil pressure regulator (as have been discussed in another thread where someone runs an actual pressure regulator) and fit that to see if it stops.My problem is, I'm at the point for a new bottom end to go in now... So I have to decide how I want to attack it to set the car up for track work... High Comp N/A that revs its guts out, or buy a whole nwe turbo/mani setup and stick with the bottom ends how I have been... PCV is hooked up and working properly.

My car melts cats... Lucky I stick to the track! The comparison also, for those doing non cat, to cat testing should be done with a brand new cat. A mildly collapsed cat will rob massive amounts of power!

I have one "somewhere". It's not a genuine one, but it "fits"

Deja Vu eh? Good stuff Sean! Now go rip a skid!

It's alright Eric, I already knew you didn't like my skids I'm going to try and chase Owen as I thought he had some video too. Ben, would be awesome if your mates got some of my skid videos. And if they didn't vids of other peoples skids is nearly as good for me!

Okay, quick update... Just went and fired it up... It knocks like a little bitch between 2000 and 3500RPM but ONLY when the revs are changing, hold them constant and it shuts up... :S Edit: At this rate I'll bring you two...

I think I'm more adament on make this turbo work... As piss poor as it is for use in track racing... I really want to see what it can do with some boost wound in, and an extra 1000RPM... Looking at oil pressure regs at the moment... Car is about to be moved, oil dropped and inspected (With a magnet on hand as it spills from the guts of the motor.) And then I'm going to see if the noise is still there after a flush. If it's not there, I'll be back out soon ripping epic skids. If it is, well, I suppose I'll be ripping skids with a trailer on hand... And using the channels found within this club, I'll be picking up soon a 5Point quick release harness for the driver to wear, and a proper bucket seat for the passenger, whom will get the current four point harness that is on the drivers side. And I want to get down to Wakefield soon, as I had a dream I met the owner, and he was going to close it soon as there's too many race tracks around... I think that means I need to get back to the track soon... Just, I might borrow a trailer for Wakefield... Edit: As for the RB25DE pistons... I have a block at my mums house that is an RB25DE... Might pinch the pistons and put it in another motor... Andrew, you give me naughty ideas... And 10.8 would be PERFECT!

Stop right now... Take that back... I've nearly done it myself, but you don't want to go from a 30 to a 25. Why does the 30 need to take a break?

It's a very whitish smoke. And no, nothing at all at startup or idling around. Only when I'm giving the motor a bit of a work out after a few seconds. Then it pumps a whole heap of smoke, take it easy on it, let it clear up, give it another hit and it goes again. I had the turbo apart the other day, but I have no idea what I'm looking for with spotting a dodgy seal (When I saw apart, I mean I have the VBand un done and the rear housing off)

Come on! There had to be more video footage then what has been posted. All I heard after I ripped a massive skid was that heaps of people had it on video... So where is it all? Ben... Scour your Camaro friends to see if they had footage?

Count the head bolts down the head. If it looked like for example 1,3,5,7,9,11,13,15 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16 You would tighten in the order. 7,8,9,10,5,6,11,12,3,4,13,14,1,2,15,16 So from the middle, working evenly out. But you also have to stage them down. So torque to from memory 30nm, then 90nm, then loosen it off to zero, torque to 110nm, then from memory tighten 90-115 degrees over that.

For what? It's perfectly fine... Ignore the AFR at idle, air flow is way too slow to be measurable properly. My AFRs without revs moving, without timing or ignition moving, will swing ont he LM1 from 13 - 15.8:1 but the motor doesn't even change sound. Low air velocity, large pipe.

You call that a limiter bash? That's NOTHING! Hey Druncan? Mine copped it all day... With flames... Then it had a nibble on something... note sure what yet... What's done in that motor?

Perfectly normal, and it's the ECU turning the injectors off when you drop the throttle.

Price on shell with suspension in it, and rear diff in it (As a roller)?

What part numbers are they? Interested.

Originally we had this awesome thing of "Survival of the fittest" and evolution. Unfortunately, some gumbyment decided we had to make laws to protect people, and with the introduction of good health care, the f**king morons are allowed to breed. Add to the fact it's illegal to kill, and all they want to do is breed, they're like wildfire... Out of control and taking over...

What are you doing in regards to the heater controls? I want to keep "something" so I can defog the front window (as it's registered, I "need" to keep the heater + fan for window) I'm thinking a switch for fan on/off, and have it constantly set to "Window" when I turn a switch on? (As powered off, it switches to feet) I'm just going sheet alu in there, with at least boost, oil temp, oil pressure and water temp. Might throw fuel pressure in too if I get enough room. I think Duncan has a sweet setup in the GTR, from memory 1 large central guage, and 4 "orbiting" guages around it filing that spot in.

All that anal probing from dem alienz has dun sumting! Oh noes!

And the photo from post one that isn't displaying properly.

Fatz: For what you're asking on yours, I can build 4 of mine As for the turdbro, it's a bit of everything. I do have around here somewhere EXACTLY what it is, but I'll have to find on which computer it's written down. But the rear looks something TD07 I've been told, there's something T04R in it etc, uses the same flange as the T04Z. Is a true split pulse, and a true 6Boost split pulse mani. Oh, and after doing some reading of a recent thread, I'm thinking of putting an oil pressure regulator on the turbo, as the turbo only smokes after a good hard rev up, IE, high oil pressure... And see what it does. If it fixes it, keep ripping skids... I'll be starting the car tomorrow to try and track down the knock knock noise too that evolved at Texi... And Duncan, I saw that look in your eye "I wish I could treat my car like that and not worry if I broke it" And you know you wanted to rip a skid like it too

Who needs an exhaust? They just keep all the loudz in...

Go do some reading boosted EFI FPR setups...