MBS206

I'd bet the columns for 0RPM in the tuning map have values in them that aren't 0 and the ECU is pulsing ignition and fuel as mention.

Not really, considering the GTR is RWD until the rears start to light up. Hence if he's breaking shit, he should be smashing pressure plates apart, not wearing a clutch out. By the time ATTESSA kicks in to make it AWD, the clutch should be fully engaged, if it's not, then it's purely driver error by most likely too many revs, and too much clutch out quickly.

Same here... And that's if you EXCLUDE Duncan from that list... PS: I hope you've fitted a winged and gated sump to that thing... Other wise I see it lasting around 1 drift meet... When treated right, a Rotary will last well into the 200 000KM range. (Which is the same for most performance motors, yes your mums Dad's Uncle may have a commodore that has 450 000KM on it, but does it get revved to redline every day... No) Edit: And by the sounds of it letting go... Sounds like it pinged... And that is one thing a rotary will instantly shit itself from... Detonation.

I was meaning weight overall. The RB26 has to be at least double, if not triple the weight a 13B. Might help though with drifting, more front end grip. Circuit racing would be a different story though. Have you weighed both motors up at all?

Someone tell me a date and I'll try to be there to help push cars around... Duncan can make the engine noises...

A better place for AFR reading is actually in the dump pipe. With and without a cat, the AFR readings vary from front to rear of the exhaust. My car is tuned with the AFR taken around 2 to 3 feet after the turbo. And from a good quality, good condition high flowing cat, to no cat, there will be a minimal power gain (Talking 5RWKW max) but others will say "But I got 50RWKW from removing mine!" but they fall into the category of either: Too small of a cat Low quality cat Non Highflow cat Partially collapsed cat (Bad condition)

Yeah, RB26's usually do it the other way around... Blow the turbo and take the motor out... What is the car being used for? As the RB26 will be alot heavier up front destroying a fair bit of weight distribution in the RX7...

seconded... its what i did too

I'd like to know this also... Anyone who's doing "RnD" want to weigh in?

Kidding right? Keeping an R33 off boost they'll out run most of your little 4 cylinder cars around that are going at full noise. If you're pulling out in a gap that you'd drive off in an excel at full throttle to "save a bingle" please go hand your licence back in!

You can also buy the whole one piece gasket for cheap as chips too...

What do you mean 6 standard small gaskets at $45 each? An RB25 genuine exhaust gasket is $90, and is a single piece for all 6 cylinders...

Yeah, he'll be able to tune it.

Is that all Adrian? Come on man! Put a stock RB30 bottom end in it and make more power! (For way less!) PS, I need some good hookups on Bosch 044's...

Start with the non factory shit... IE YOUR WIRING!

Add a cam, 4 - 1 exhaust headers with full 3" exhaust (Twins for nice ness! ) OTRCAI, tune it, and go run high 10s...

My car went from popping flames, missfiring, unable to be driven at all because I threw large injectors into it. Hadn't been tuned at all on the 3.0L, upgrade from 2.5 - 3.0L massive turbo upgrade, injectors the works. We only did a quick power tune on it, haven't even finalised the off boost tune, and it is extremely driveable. He tunes MANY high power cars and they all come out perfect. He is EXTREMELY PEDANTIC when working on cars. So far it's the only place I've been comfortable leaving my car. Never had any problems.

David: Go and speak with Kon at Wollongong Automotive Services. He tuned my RB25/30 for me, great guy, great dealings and good prices. I also run the Adaptronic e420c and am currently looking at upgrading to the E1280S.

Actually, I was thinking of Cobalt drill bits not Carbon... Wrong C word.

If you don't run it, your brake booster will see boost and make the brakes rock hard and unuseable... Run it.

The only people I've heard of, who have had issues, deserved it. They were known to the police, had a history of idiodic driving etc etc. Secondly, the police can pull you over, book you for neg, wreckless driving, speeding etc, and do you know the funny part, they might book you for neg driving, speeding and not wearing a seatbelt and that gives them enough points for some people to loose their licence for 6 odd months (Sometimes more!)... The Hilarious part... The fact that the copper then just has to walk away, and joe blow idiot is free to rip a skid and take off up the street and keep going LEGALLY for another month or two... It is only in the VERY rare instances that Police can and will confiscate a licence on the spot. If they take the car away, for most people it makes it ALOT harder for them to do this. So car gone for a month, can't drive, then loss of licence for 3 - 6 months, hopefully if they're smart enough (Most aren't) they won't drive, so it frees the roads up for 4 to 7 months. Also, the only time I had an over bearing/aggressive copper was when I was caught well and truly over the speed limit, he went all "you were going real fast back there, how fast do you reckon you were going" and I went on the defensive of "I don't know"... Only time I had an issue. The last time I got caught I handed over my licence, apologised, he handed licence and fine back and I was on my way. (Minus 8 points and a chunk of my pay... Damn double demerits!) The time before that, which could well have ended in a car confiscation ended up with nothing more then a warning as I was polite and upfront. (I could have been booked at 30+ over the limit as I even said a speed to the officer and he let me go after a quick check of my tyres and licence. Only those whom deserve it, and those who give the coppers hell from what I've seen and heard appear to have these issues.

Carbon tipped drill piece for drilling stainless, BUT you HAVE to drill freaking slowly (Like slowest speed possible!) or you will munt the drill bit. Carbon tipped drill pieces are used on stainless and other very hard metals.

Nice result man! 350RWKW is a good jump! Time to upgrade that sig!

Dead bearing fo shizzle... Sounds like my engine exactly and the sound seems to be coming from the crank, even disappears and is only there in that rev range.

That'd be awesome Dave if you could. Nice vid too! I'd have been out there too if I hadn't found a motor problem... LOL