MBS206

Add a cam, 4 - 1 exhaust headers with full 3" exhaust (Twins for nice ness! ) OTRCAI, tune it, and go run high 10s...

My car went from popping flames, missfiring, unable to be driven at all because I threw large injectors into it. Hadn't been tuned at all on the 3.0L, upgrade from 2.5 - 3.0L massive turbo upgrade, injectors the works. We only did a quick power tune on it, haven't even finalised the off boost tune, and it is extremely driveable. He tunes MANY high power cars and they all come out perfect. He is EXTREMELY PEDANTIC when working on cars. So far it's the only place I've been comfortable leaving my car. Never had any problems.

David: Go and speak with Kon at Wollongong Automotive Services. He tuned my RB25/30 for me, great guy, great dealings and good prices. I also run the Adaptronic e420c and am currently looking at upgrading to the E1280S.

Actually, I was thinking of Cobalt drill bits not Carbon... Wrong C word.

If you don't run it, your brake booster will see boost and make the brakes rock hard and unuseable... Run it.

The only people I've heard of, who have had issues, deserved it. They were known to the police, had a history of idiodic driving etc etc. Secondly, the police can pull you over, book you for neg, wreckless driving, speeding etc, and do you know the funny part, they might book you for neg driving, speeding and not wearing a seatbelt and that gives them enough points for some people to loose their licence for 6 odd months (Sometimes more!)... The Hilarious part... The fact that the copper then just has to walk away, and joe blow idiot is free to rip a skid and take off up the street and keep going LEGALLY for another month or two... It is only in the VERY rare instances that Police can and will confiscate a licence on the spot. If they take the car away, for most people it makes it ALOT harder for them to do this. So car gone for a month, can't drive, then loss of licence for 3 - 6 months, hopefully if they're smart enough (Most aren't) they won't drive, so it frees the roads up for 4 to 7 months. Also, the only time I had an over bearing/aggressive copper was when I was caught well and truly over the speed limit, he went all "you were going real fast back there, how fast do you reckon you were going" and I went on the defensive of "I don't know"... Only time I had an issue. The last time I got caught I handed over my licence, apologised, he handed licence and fine back and I was on my way. (Minus 8 points and a chunk of my pay... Damn double demerits!) The time before that, which could well have ended in a car confiscation ended up with nothing more then a warning as I was polite and upfront. (I could have been booked at 30+ over the limit as I even said a speed to the officer and he let me go after a quick check of my tyres and licence. Only those whom deserve it, and those who give the coppers hell from what I've seen and heard appear to have these issues.

Carbon tipped drill piece for drilling stainless, BUT you HAVE to drill freaking slowly (Like slowest speed possible!) or you will munt the drill bit. Carbon tipped drill pieces are used on stainless and other very hard metals.

Nice result man! 350RWKW is a good jump! Time to upgrade that sig!

Dead bearing fo shizzle... Sounds like my engine exactly and the sound seems to be coming from the crank, even disappears and is only there in that rev range.

That'd be awesome Dave if you could. Nice vid too! I'd have been out there too if I hadn't found a motor problem... LOL

I'll be there, but not running a car... The Jazz will be at another event...

Damnnit... After my first big skid everyone was walking around going "We all have it on video" Well where'd it go people!

Any update on vids Ben?

That's how I looked at the build was if I wanted 11:1 i'd need rods, which to me meant a whole motor build. At the moment everything on thi. Car has all been about bargain hunting really. And from 1000cc to 1600cc there isn't much price difference. I'll do some calcs late tonight if I can get my ecu to let me download it and get the dc of the 880 injectors. At 3500 this motor feels dead as a door nail, but it's making 190 rwkw. But at 5000 rpm plus it's making 250rwkw which accelerates 5 times faster... Dyno definitely didn't read my full power read out properly... I think I'd max a 1000cc set, or at least be chewing into the safety area... Watch this space though, big changes to setup before next texi!!!

It's nearly worth me NOT paying rego, paying for the roll cage instead, and getting it cams log booked...

Do it yourself. that way there is no one to blame if it f**ks up.

The issue I've been warned of is even on E85, with 11:1, the compression in the motor could quite likely bend a rod. But then I've heard some euro cars are coming out on 98 fuel with 10.5:1 CR so... More reading needed... That and I've been told to run alot larger injectors and up the whole fuel system... From what I've been told is to look for 1600CC injectors, and twin 044s feeding the fuel rail from a surge, and a single 044 feeding the surge tank with larger lines from surge tank to injectors. For now it's looking like I'll be throwing another 30DE bottom end in with a turbo more suited for track work, and holding off a little on the 11:1 and E85 transformation. But I will be playing with going unassisted brakes, and a full engine bay tidy up whilst the engine is out, along with a few other little changes...

QFT! ROFL You keep giving me inspiration... The poor new garage I'm moving too isn't going to know what hits it when my car gets there... (And it's a brand new garage+house... LOL...) I need to rework my dash a bit too, looking at some custom shit around the factory speedo/alternator.

Nearly everyone with a 25DE has found them to be soft. I have a set of 25DET springs in my room, when I pull the head off my 30 I'll compare the springs from the 25DE head to them. Edit; And when I checked with the guy at Nissan he mentioned different part numbers for them. 26DETT should DEFINITELY have different valve springs.

I run an R33 RB25DE head, valve floats about 6500RPM with 1 Bar of boost on my turbo (Big mean mother trucker). I also run the R33 25DE cams, the car "makes" 250RWKW... BUT this was on a dyno there was complaints the following day of ultra low readings, add to the fact no matter what we did it wouldn't stop wheel spinning above 5000RPM...

Put the MX5 on and see if it makes 75% of the power it should be...

If you're running a 25DE head, make sure you change the valve springs as the 25DE springs are soft, and do not like boost.

For your claimed power, you should be running mid/high 12s... 190 - 200RWKW is seeing consistent 12.9s from people.

Coolant doesn't move. I've been told by numerous people it's oil. When it does any one standing around smells burning oil. It's blue but not super blue like when a magna/excel takes off with stuffed rings.

Jess complete noobie for this kind of stuff. Just sent app via email. Matt Sullivan.