MBS206

If youwant streetable response, look at the GT3076 or the 3082. When that gets thrown on the RB25/30, you'll have an unreal combination that will NOT have to be revved, but will be able to when needed.

They're easy! Why do people dread them so much? :S

I know the VRS kit comes with all the seals you need. Including a head gasket, inlet mani and exhaust mani. You could go to Nissan and buy them seperate. Probably cost you $100 or there abouts. VRS kit = $330 from Nissan.

A dirty CAS won't cause that issue. A dirty CAS won't give you any driving issues. A dirty CAS is only a PITA when you're trying to put it back on. A stuffed CAS usually has timing jumping, not completely dieing. Sounds like a wiring loom coming loose.

I'd try a slightlysmaller gate too... around the 44mm mark. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ex...mp;hl=wastegate That might help you keep boost up when running the screamer.

What size waste gate are you running also?

If it picks up power (And you can hold boost) then the dump/exhaust is being restrictive.

A slapper, is slapped together, with the mind set of "She'll be right" You're doing a rebuild.

So with the current discussion, not comparable. We've been discussing with respect to plumbing back. I asked NYTSKY if he was running screamer, hasn't yet responded, other wise you'd rule out the whole exhaust system and run a 3" for the whole system.

The easiest test to find out if the dump/exhaust is being a restriction, is quite simply to drop it. But can anyone find a car make 400RWKW with a 3" dump? Most I know of from experience run 3.5" - 4" dumps, and then a 3.5" system. While you're say going to a smaller pipe increases speed, decreases pressure. You also have to know for a fact, that whilst you go really small, the speed of the gas might be super quick, and low pressure in that section, but the section before has been restricted down basically, and it now has a huge pressure build up. Run too small of a dump, the pressure in the turbo / exhaust manifold starts to build up, and counteract the pressure going INTO the motor. It's not like I said go and put a 6" dump as from experience, everyone knows that it will become detrimental to the exhaust flow. Whilst the hotter gas is less dense, it also takes up more area. And that's the big problem, as it's exitting the turbo, exhaust gas can be as hot as 850degrees, by the time it reaches that tail pipe, a mere 200 - 400 degrees. Half the temperature, half the density... So you need half the area for the cooler gas... I agree, there is an art to building exhausts, bigger is not always better, but experience tells me, for 400KW, a 3" dump is too small.

Please, change the name of the thread... This is not a slapper. A slapper is a matter of grabbing a running RB30E, pulling the head off, slap an RB26 or RB25 head on (once you do things like block the oil hole in the 25 head). Do the tensioners, run the external oil feed for VVT, do the external front drain off the factory spot on the 25 head. Put motor in car, start it, warm it up, rip a skid, check for leaks. (Yes, in that order)

You should see the unmarked SS utes they havein Queensland... They have some sweet cars! Wollongong also has cars like Corollas etc roaming everywhere.

So what I've seen, in real life. Is Wrong... And you're going to tell us what is right when?

Try prove me wrong. Drive it how I drive mine. It won't last. RB30 pump is fine for a slapper. If you're taking your current motor to court etc, don't touch it. Use new shit. Also, head + new valve stems etc, crack pressure tested, you're looking around $800 - $1000. I built my last actual engine for $660, that include a new clutch + pressure plate, clutch bolts, head gasket, block etc. Mine lasted 2 track days and a motorkhana. Now at the Khana it spent 90% of its time at the limiter. The track days and road life it saw, it spent probably 70% of its time above 4000RPM. Slapper + abuse = broken, but that's the fun of it. I haven't broken one yet driving it on the street. But put it on the track and drive it hard... Different matter... Edit: My next one is getting an RB25 pump in it though. Edit2: Although, judging how I push a motor, even some built motors wouldnt't last... LOL

Most of the dumps I've seen for 400+ have been 3.5" - 4" And the outlet may be 3", but take a look at the big power builds, they all mouth out nearly instantly

Restriction found... Why would you run a 3" pipe, at the point where the gasses are their hottest, and most turbulent (IE, when they need the biggest area to flow)? Drop the dump, and I bet power climbs. Or are you still on the screamer?

Give us a list of all the bits and pieces you have, like cooler, manifolds etc... Might be something hindering flow... I'm guessing like most big builds, no cat?

No such thing as a reliable, quick, cheap build. Pick two out of the 3. Also, there are pistons available for 9.0:1 CR with a DET head on them. Lastly, the oil pumps that are stock I've found are fine to use, so long as you don't limiter bash like I do.

I'd rather spend 100 to 600 every 4 or so events, drive it as hard as possible, rather then 10 000 now, and being scared I'll break it. I'd curl up and die if I spent 10k then broke it with in 2 years

It had oil pressure... Just that the turbo let it all out... LOL I was there for fun.. Not to restrain myself... ROFL

The black smoke was because I kept mashing the hard cut limiter... The puffs of it yeah? I was hitting soft cut, which cuts every second cylinder till I back off, then if I reach a certain rev, it cuts all ignition... hence flames + black smoke... LOL And yeah, that motor copped some abuse... Maybe why it now rattles... LOL

At least he doesn't have to edit a real car into mine... PS: Was it really that bad out the exhaust? I only noticed it once from the exhaust...

woot! I just want as many pics of my car as possible...

God damnnit... I'll be asleep by then! Did you get many good pics of my skids Ian?

How about I get black paint and paint numbers on my car? f**k the autosalon spec shit...