MBS206

I'm after swinging to 8500 RPM but on a 3L... Also, people say it's "in the lift and duration" how? do they lift less but have an uber long duration or something? I want to know that if you ran a 256degree Turbo cam, what the difference is to a 256 NA cam...

In regards to cams, what are the differences from NA to Turbo?

doo eeet

Semi slicks (A048), on stock suspension (Squats down VERY well). (This is on the track too frying in 3rd after warming the tyres up) The main killer, is as you said, the "Light switch" delivery. It is very much light switch, and I'd like to head down to something like a 3076. (Turbo is quite large and laggy... Won't really "come alive" till I'm pushing 24+ PSi, only on 14 atm)

I run a "250RWKW" RB25/30DET... It turns the tyres at 130KM/H in 3rd... No, it's not a nice power delivery, nothing below 3500RPM, full boost at like 4000 - 4500RPM... Turning tyres from 4000RPM onwards... Power isn't the main thing to worry about (Power from a 25DET isn't really comparable to that of a 30DET as they make the same power, lower revs, more torque) I believe a couple of the guys are running 25/30s with stock 25 turbos on them and are able to turn the tyres in 2nd/3rd with just a prod of the throttle too... The torque from a well setup 25/30 is just unbelievable...

For a street car... I'd be going the 25/30 but actually probably looking at the 3540 or a touch smaller. On the street, for a very tractable car, you want and need response. Also, in the comparison of a 25DET VS 25/30DET, think about the fact, they may both make 400KW, but the 25/30 will do it roughly 1000RPM earlier... Meaning there is way more torque being put down, which is what makes you go fast.

Wow.... This place echos...

He means fuel rail pressure. If they were 650 - 700cc I'd be expecting near stock fuel rail pressure

And in terms of air pressure sensing, they call it a filter... The pulsing is referred to as "noise". And it's designed to filter out the noise.

Can't rev the engine whilst cold. It's not perfectly tuned yet for cold starts etc, it will only idle. The head is coming off, I've heard there is a proper way to pressure test them. I want to know how so I can. Heads being pulled no matter what soon, not because of the Valve Stem Seals.

Stereos... What are they?

Hence why I love my dirty 30... 60 Degrees advanced on the inlet, 60 degrees retarded on the exhaust, never touched a single valve into a piston...

I'd be going with the bent stud or bolt. Mine walked off majorly when the tensioner didn't sit flush. Pull it all off and check it.

The one I have is near on perfect with compression. Luck of the draw really. But now I appear to have either head issues or turbo issues... And I couldn't justify more then the $660 I spent in total that got me a clutch as well. Pistons/bearings and then paying someone to do the machine work... Not the way i treat it... As for what'll break first... I'm trying for a piston through the block, or a bent rod at least...

I like the way you work... Sounds a bit like mine, except I didn't even rebuild it... Just need to change a few things, then push its limits...

I'm seeing LOTS of smoke... At the moment the turbo is, and it all appears fine... That's the problem... I'm seeing a SHITLOAD of smoke once I boost up for 2 - 3 seconds, and a shitload if I pump it back to 3rd gear at around 130 - 140KM/H with closed throttle.

Hey guys, I'm probably going to be pulling my head off again within the next few months, and would like to know, how do you test the valve stem seals properly when the head is off. I read a post where Trent was saying that when they change them, they have to pressure test them (which you can't do when you leave the head on and do them with the special tool) so I'd like to know, how you do test them? I want to pull the head to put an oil restrictor in, and also to change the valve springs (I know I can do it with head on, but I want to put the restrictor in too) at the same time, I'd like to pressure test the valve stem seals in case they're shot...

It appears to be a pressure line, with a filter in it, and the part that was in it, has been removed and just blocked. Possibly a electronic boost controller

Precision make a forged RB30DET one as well (Or did when I looked it all up about 6 months ago) I had pricing for them.

Sounds like the tune mine has... LOL Fouls plugs if you let it idle for 20 - 30 minutes...

1... Throw that idea in the bin. 2... Sell me your 25 head and forward facing plenum. 3... You go buy a 26dett head. 4... 5... No profit, but lots of win... As for my turdbro... Ignore my engine bay, as LOTS has changed since this pic...

The only thing I get from pedestrians is "Cool skyline! Do a skid!" PS: I'm not a 100% law abiding citizen, but I don't like dumping the clutch, hence no skids for them.

+1 But I'll still be ripping skids at Texi!

I need some one to entertain me on satday and a place to crash or me no makey!

Who's actually coming?