MBS206

I don't see, how at idle, the stock BOV is going to be "leaking". Air flows from point of highest pressure to lowest. When idling, the WHOLE intake up until the throttle body is at the same pressure... The vacuum point is from the throttle body to motor side... Nothing to do with before it...

Sonuds like AAC isn't setup when cold... Revs should come up above 1000RPM when cold to stop the shaking. Cold engines don't idle well when they're idling low.

Bugger buying an R33 if you wanna slide or drag... Go buy S13Deviats S13 and just have fun in the power it's got!

So I've still been lazy, I've paid for the SNS, just haven't sent paper work in, make sure there's a +1 on my name....

I'll grab some spare line and reconnect it all up then. See how it goes... Will le tyou all know, Cheers for the suggestions

See... Lost again... You say to tee the breather from the rear of head... But not to use it at the end of the paragraph... :S So drivers side as high as possible for rear of head to remove the positive pressure from the sump?

Oh, and in wasted spark config too!

I'm running the yellow jackets, making enough torque to fry the tyres coming on boost in 3rd at 120 odd KM/h. RB25/30, huge turbo, HEAPS of heat (Nothing has heat shielding really except a couple of oil lines). The only time the car runs is for abuse... They haven't missed a beat yet.

Okay need some quick help, as I've been so damn confused through this thread trying to work out who breaths what where... I have the point in the back of the head to breath, which side of the sump does it go to (Driver, or passenger) above or below oil line? return drain from my first catch can, return to driver or passenger, above or below oil line? Also, the stock RB25DET has an oil drain off the front passenger side that normally returns to the block, on an RB30DET, no provision for this, how should this drain be ran to the sump (Passenger side obviously) but above or below oil line?

I could just take all of the oil out... That'd solve it... LOL

Oh... As in it's not breathing at all? Good point, cause I did f**k with the lines the day before... Will check...

The RTA will still see it as a turbo car (IE, restricted) since it was turbo from factory. IE, you still can't drive it. IE, DON'T BOTHER!

Hey Security, Trying to figure out how the PCV could be at fault. It's completely removed, and those air lines blocked. I'm just trying to see how blocking it would cause oil to go into the combustion chamber? As if it were unblocked, when on boost, the PCV blocks it self (If it's working) and when unblocked it sucks the oil from the head into the combustion chamber... So removing it should stop oil being sucked in on decel (And it'll be pulled into the catch can) Or am I missing something? It did smoke as I went to take off at friends place after idling for like 2 minutes... So... Not a good look... How can I test VSS? Edit: Forgot to add, comp came back at 152 +/- 5 PSi across all cylinders.

Wait... You have 2 GTRs for racing?

Hey guys, I have had another issue crop up with my car, originally it had MASSIVE blow by, but since the fit ment of a catch can, the intake pipes appear clean and dry now. But I still have an issue, if I run up on 5+ PSi of boost, car starts blowing blue smoke, and then when I back off puts huge plumes of smoke out the back. I noticed late this afternoon it put a touch of blue smoke out whilst idling for minute... Only seen it do it once though... Now I'm thinking it is either a turbo oil seal, or a valve stem seal. I'm going to pull the turbo this Saturday/Sunday and check it all out, but how can I "test" the valve stem seals? That and what else could it possibly be? For extra information, PCV is disconnected and blocked. Only rocker cover breathers is from cam covers to catch can, back to intake. Car is an RB25/30DET with a bit of a mixer turbo on there high mounted.

I think it's more the chineese copyin, claiming it's a "HKS" yet it's made out of very low quality steel and is bent from the factory... That's the issue. Nothing wrong with copying, so long as you're not claiming it is something it isn't, or trying to make it look like them.

I'd start by having the air con regassed.

If it's been sitting for 6 months, possible water vapour? Drive it around, put 100KMs on it, see if it's still there (That's if it's not like massive amounts looks like car is on fire style) As Dirt said, another comp test/leak down.

Paid... And paid for show and shine at the same time. Please let uncy duncs know my money for SNS is in. Description "MBS206 Texi + SNS" Form to come Edit: And no fire extinguisher needed this time?

Oh, just to be fair... I'd think about a stroker when the right one comes out... The one for the RB30... 3.3L...

Pfft, just remove it all together...

If you can do me a rotating assembly for less then $2000 all built (head included) sure, I'd do it... And who said they don't rev? I'm about to have mine retuned for 7500RPM in the new year... Onlly reason I won't go higher is the cams that are in it aren't suited to hard revving.

Last RB25DE I bought was $300. Last 25DET I bought was $350.

Why couldn't this be in NSW... I'd offer a swap!

Have you got a rear quarter dent? Most of the front bar paint missing? Dropped a motor on the radiator support? Dropped a gearbox on the front bar? Cause I have... LOL Must fax shit off and pay for stuff tomorrow I think