
nick81xd
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Everything posted by nick81xd
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been running a genuine walbro for 4 years now. just starting to run out of puff now at 351kws
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does anybody know exactly what parts are need for aircon in a r32. mine was all binned when the 25 was put in. obviously need a compressor, condensor, lines but what else i know 2/3rds of nothing about aircon. even better if someone has a entire aircon setup that wanna sell
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mineral turps would awesome for me spent few hours with rubbing with thumb then started trying all sorts of shit and turps just wipes off
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easy one. no you cannot. been there tried that pickup gets in the way
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wow quick to jump on the hate wagon arent we. offer was meant to be 1200.
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120 bucks?
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Removing Stock Oil Cooler/warmer Thingy On Rb25
nick81xd replied to soturi's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
yeh i built him a budget motor a few years ago, some 50,000klms ago, running 20psi from moment of run in and still got same compression as the day i built it -
Removing Stock Oil Cooler/warmer Thingy On Rb25
nick81xd replied to soturi's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
done this just last weekend. you just unbolt the hoses, undo the 4 bolts around the mount (helps to have the oil filter off) once all the bolts are out gently tap the mount off. once its off you will need to take off the oil pressure sender cause the rb20 mount doesnt have spot for it but about 5-10cms back and slight up from the oil filter is a 1/8 bung in the block thats tapped into the oil gallery thats where you put your sender. there is a casting close to the hole thats where the adapter is needed to space it off. i didnt have heater hoses hooked up due to custom plenum, after market cooler and relocation kit but you just add a joiner in to loop the two hoses together. Parts needed, Rb20 stock oil filter mount Nissan 4 bolt gasket that joins the block to housing Inner o-ring on the inside of mount. A joiner to join the two water hoses together. A adapter for the oil pressure switch size 1/8 x 1/8 x 1 1/2 or enzed p/n A72-020224 Thread tape Oil to top it up (best to do job when servicing anyway) -
im making 471hp/351kws on a set of highflowed injectors running around 70% duty cycle. been running them for over 3 years now no issue had them out and bench tested them, the pattern is a little bit small but its still atomising the fuel
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bullshit prove that i built it.. cant wait for benaraby meet. should bring some good times and mph
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just crank boost up and dont worry about the motor, it will hold it........................maybe
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740cc might be too small for what i want though. ill look into other brands i guess and research sards a bit more. ill have no need for the highflow ones so i would be selling them i guess dunno what price though
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dont bother trying to fit a different one they are so cheap through Kudos motorsports that wouldnth stuff around with other models
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Need a idea from some peoples smarter brains on what size injectors would be suitable for my setup as ones i have are getting close to limit and i want to tune it to 25psi current setup: Gt3582r .86 rear housing with anti surge drilled front housing Forged pistons shot peened rods balanced and nitraded crack stock cams exhaust cam gear head port matched to manifolds custom plenum with 83mm sub zero throttle body high mount ""ebay" manifold- modified 50mm wastegate Microtech lt8s with update program and 40psi external MAP sensor Mircotech X6 ignition module 6x bosch coils with top gun leads highflow factory side feed injectors walbro in tank fuel pump im currently making 471hp or 351kws on 23psi. as the injectors are close to max duty cycle what would be the better option for injectors? im leaning towards the SARD 850cc side feeds but if there is a different way to go say top feed rail conversion that might be the way i dont want to go rediculously big size injectors as i dont want to have to stuff around and never get a decent idle out of it THOUGHTS.......
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Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results
nick81xd replied to Nacho Vidal's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
1989 r32 with rb25 Gt3582r .86 rear housing with anti surge drilled front housing Forged pistons shot peened rods balanced and nitraded crack stock cams exhaust cam gear head port matched to manifolds custom plenum with 83mm sub zero throttle body high mount ""ebay" manifold- modified 50mm wastegate Microtech lt8s with update program and 40psi external MAP sensor Mircotech X6 ignition module 6x bosch coils with top gun leads highflow factory side feed injectors walbro in tank fuel pump BP ultimate 98 446hp on 18psi and 351kws or 471hp on 23psi. upgrading injectors before 25psi run -
thats not the right way to run water lines, you will cook the cartridge if you run the lines like that. there will be no flow through the turbo as its the same gallery. might want to address that
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if i had a series 2 car as a test cop i could have a good go at making up a write up for the s2. im sure there is a way
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Just Jap Manifolds Vs Japanese Made Brands
nick81xd replied to Chris32R's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
been running a chinese manifold for over nearly 4 years now never cracked or had a problem except wastegate pipe resizing. its a lucky dip. -
Skyline R33 Power Steering System
nick81xd replied to danny14's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
mate had the exact problem turns out its a blown capacitor in the hicas computer in the boot. get another computer and it should fix it -
ive got a drivers airbag, no passenger one though. i would of thought the air bag would be over just enough to get in there. the side vent tube is in the way slighty but can just go around it. ive never played with a series 2 model before so i cant help as much
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HEKT1K Not sure what that noise your describing is. if you get a video of it i might be able to help TwoCents so you did the fix and it came back? or the noise has stopped so your not worried? Branelly no thats a problem that i havent looked at yet, i do have one or two friends i can maybe have a play with try to fix it
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http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ng...25det-p-42.html cant beat that price.
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all the vents work fine just that it plays up when at full one way. It will be the motor making the noise
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yeh that arm is the hardest part of the whole job, you get lucky though some just pop straight off. NOTE: if people arent mechnically minded i can do this on a exchange basis. i have a spare one sitting here fixed
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Disclaimer: This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia or any affiliates be held accountable for following said actions, causing damage or harm to you or your car Introduction: After hearing friends cars make the noise i figured it was a skyline thing, but when my own skyline started doing it i couldnt put up with even after 1 day of driving. I couldn't find anything on the internet about how to fix it so i went about my own way to find the cause.....with results. this is the 3rd motor i have fixed the last two motors work perfectly so its a tested method Car in Question: 1995 Model Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T Difficulty Level of DIY: Low Time Needed: Budget at least one hour, if its your first time. ive done 3 now takes about 20 mins including glue drying time Materials/Equipment Needed: -Phillips head screw driver -2 flatblade screwdrivers -Small length 8mm ring spanner -5min araldite or similar glue -Electrical tape -If you want gloves when prying off the arm..........i ended up slipping and getting 3 stitches Procedure: start by pulling the glove box out by pull the 2 pins out then take out the 6 phillips head screws and theres 2 press in clips that take a lil bit of force to pull out (Check (if you live in usa): Publix Weekly Ad, or Big W toy catalogue.) the motor in question is right up in there. this is where the 4 jointed arms come in there in two 8mm bolts in there (couldnt get picture) but they are easy felt. once you have the two 8mm screws out lil the motor directly up pull it out unplug it and this is what you should have in front of you start buy levering the 5 locking tabs out of the way (the ones ive done have all broken so yours will likely do the same) lever open the two halfs can be a pain but if it comes up evenly will be fine theres the cause of the noise the tooth breaks off cause the motor not to reach a load stop and just keeps trying to turn its good to just inspect all the gears and teeth for strength. Now this is the time where the gloves come in as i found out screwdrivers double as daggers (as you can see) lever the arm off the gear. this will require a bit of force it will either comply and come off or the glue will still have a hold on it. once you have the arm off this is what results careful to not loose the tension washer check that theres is no left over glue or plastic inside the arm now rotate the gear 180degrees from where it originally was so that the missing tooth is away from drive gear another careful note. check that the copper strip doesnt fall out. not sure what it does but must be something put a small amount of glue on the end of the gear push the arm back on the gently tap it on with a hammer as the shaft is tapered, then clean up any excess glue. this should be the end result. now put all parts that you pulled out back in the housing and put the two halves together being careful to align the locator dowels with gears. tape all way around motor (if you clips broke). There you have it a completed fixed motor. when reinstalling motor make double sure the arm slides back into the lever on top of the aircon box, have to do this all by feel. dont over tighten the 8mm screws as its only plastic its screwing into after all, just till they bite. plug motor in and reinstall all the glovebox surround etc and test the aircon changes around all the vents Lastly Enjoy the quietness of no stupid clicking noise