nick81xd

this is how mine is located. next to the throttle body. have had no problems with it, when changing the oil if done right and let sit only leaks about a cap fuel of oil.

HR32004802 got a 300kw rb 25 in it now but just for funnies rb20E ?? thanks

no need justin i have found it and torqued them all down, already got the timing down and intake manifold on wtf u doing lol

a mates car(10WRB) done the exact same thing all of a sudden ran shit...i pulled it down it turned out to be 4 cracked ring lands. one piston the ring land broke off in 3 peices. time for you to get a 25 i reckon haha

might wanna check the battery voltage on start up and idle charge and reving around 3500rpm could be not enough charge getting to battery my 32 used to occasionally have a start problem i ran a 125amp cable to the battery(in the boot) and it has been good every since voltage should be around 10-11.5 on start, 13.5-14.8 on idle and around a lilbit more on reving

the ford TB wont fit cause they are fly by wire not a cable.

hey im not white no more thanks to you, im a ripe red colour hahaha

wow look at the green 32 in the background of the photo 7 of the first group of pics. looks like it goes alright haha.

i had a tear in one of my cooler joins (didnt know) i couldnt boost over 8psi no matter wat i did, even without gate connected it wouldnt go over 8 psi so i put one of these controllers on and it went to 12 psi no problem. They must be a good controller if they can do that. Currently running 20 psi without a drama too

the coolant running through the inlet manfiold helps the fuel atomise when the motor is not at operating temperature. As cold fuel has more tendancy to form as a droplet this providing a dodgy fuel burn and poor running. isnt a problem much now days cause temp isnt that cold anymore

hey all im after wiring diagrams for 32 gts-t im after the diagrams for the wiper motor and swtich and also wiring diagrams for the dash cluster so i get gauges working again. Link or Pics would be very helpful thanks