nick81xd

Nah didnt spray hylomar on it as it had a surface coating on it already and both cometic and engine centre said that its not nessary even at boost levels we want to run.....now you got me worried

So with the grub screw issue sorted. we have ended up using a 1.3mm drill bit and ended up with a 1.35mm hole so it should be good if you blokes are on the money. Allowed us to progess forward and dummy fit some manifolds and parts to work out what we need to change and ""adjust"". Exhaust manifold had to be ground down to clear the water passage easy fix. few hoses and stuff need shortening lengthing. Got stuck into it today and bolted all parts on. all thats left really is timing belt and covers on then flywheel and clutch. Soon the next stage of install begin. PICS Hard to get a decent pic of porting Head unwrapped, Thanks to Bundaberg engine centre of all the work done. 280 degree cams Headgasket on and thickness before crush Looks like a engine again with all the gear on (just dummy fitted in these photos) will be more progress and photos on tuesday night. Plan is to have it ready to drop into car by end of night.

Ok that settles it. You guys played this game more then me. I will go get 1.3mm bit and brass fitting today. When we brought the new head it came with it so its just blanked off atm really dont want to have to use it

Yer the orginal restrictor is gone and who we got block off had already tapped a thread into it. Otherwise would of just got a 1mm knock in one and drill it out. We have drilled out all drain back holes 2mm bigger probably doesnt show up too well in photos but thats definetly done. We have a oil drain back fitting in the back of head if we find we have too much oil in head as a back up Hmm we were just going off the old engines restrictor sizing. So you suggest 1.4mm max hole size. I will go to enzed tommorow and see if can get a brass one i know for sure wont have drill issues. Thanks for the input mate always good to get another brains thoughts

Using a drill press with a 1.59mm high speed high strength drill bit. Gets about 2mm max into grub screw then just bluntens the bit and game over. Tried 3 different material grub screws with same results. 7 drill bits later gets frustrating and expensive

BOTTOM END OFFICALLY FINISHED Pre planning and a few minutes of frantic bolt placing and tightening, we managed to get the sump and adapter glued and on. Pretty confident its not going to leak......fun job of cleaning all the excess when it dries sucks though. Have a hiccup with the oil restrictor for the head not being able to drill through a grub screw sucessfully so we are back to drawing board for the temporarly. Thats all thats holding us up from bolting head on. Nitto pump full of vasoline to help oil pressure on start up. Oil pick up welded and bolted down bottom end closed up hope to never see it again. PROENGINES sump adapter kit is a awesome kit and suggest it to anyone wanting to do a 4wd RB30 makes life alot easier

FINALLY SOME ACTUAL PROGRESS. 95% of the part we need to finish engine off are here so today got stuck into bottom end. So good to see some results after so much measuring and planning which hopefully pays off by having a reliable fun engine. Measured up ring gaps and they were just about perfect for the high performance engine specs so didnt need to ring file them. Plastigauge the mains and big ends and they were also spot on with advice from engine centre. ARGO rods and CP pistons Some building. Head wrapped up ready to go on. Ported and polished, 280 degree cams, Ferrera valves, JUN valve locks retainers and springs.,...cant wait to hear the lumpy idle again Cometic 1.8mm head gasket had to finish off the pick up for the sump adapter mount hole and measure the height it needs to be welding, which is getting done tommorrow. need some head gasket dowels cause they went missing and finish drilling the oil restrictors then we can put the head on and get to work on accesories fitting. Then comes another challenge...getting the thing to fit in nicely

Taking the 26/30 path in the 34 has certainly giving us plenty of challenges to overcome but hopefully with some careful thought we can get it not only done but fitting propely. Your build is beyond WOW. you have put so much thought into the engine its rediculos. Big ups to LEAPING outside the box and trying something new

UPDATE:. Block is ready for final assembly after a very light clean up hone of bores from sitting. Crank got polished aswell All rods have been balanced within 1gram for a smoother engine. Dummy fitted crank and one cylinder assembly to measure deck height etc to work out compression. Had 1mm machined off the tops of pistons as it was around 9.5:1 comp and we all know that isnt pump fuel friendly. Currently deciding which head gasket to go with, we have two options of 8.7:1 or 8.9:1 compression ratios each have pro's and cons. Need a set of ARP main studs and we can assemble the bottom end finally.

thats what we were told it was, we havent measured it yet as we are waiting for bearings to dummy fit it all to get accurate measurements. Hoping they measured wrong thats for sure what measurements you need? by end of the week i should be able to get them all. Pistons im not sure exactly but tim should be able to say that. hope not the wrong ones cause really wanna get a start on engine. Thanks heaps for your help. Any help we can get is awesome

it was a last resort option. Really dont want to mess with pistons thats for sure. the bottom end was brought with a measured around 10:1 compression so we are looking at anyway to drop that so we can put some boost into it to make use of T51R

oh well we cant be that lucky. thanks for the help you might be getting a pm or 3 depending on how nice the car wants to be Car Update Should be able to start assembling bottom end thursday arvo, have to put one cylinder together and do some measurements to work out the comp ratio so we can choose appropriate head gasket and if we need to machine some off the tops of pistons. Head is getting there, getting it back in next day or 2 to finish the port matching and then it can go for final clean and then assembly. Starting to get to exciting bits of build. Plan is for a short time from building engine to start up to tuning....then results we are aiming for :D

Dont really wanna start cutting into the sump as its a good capacity (9L) and with the baffle gates inside wil be a pain to move them up. Find out when we are slotting motor back in might be able to work a fix. Exhaust im not too sure on but its been modified to the job, tim might be able to shed some light on brand. the intake is a good old Hypertune manifold.

correct jangles. we might have to space the engine from the mounts aswell as spacers in x member. We cannot remember how much clearance between the bigger sump and thicker swaybar there was. One of those little issues that we foresee being a nightmare

UPDATE: Block is finished ready for degresing cleaning and spraying. reliefs cut out for sump adapter. They aint pretty but they work. Head is at machine shop to get valve clearances setup for the cams. bearings should be ordered tommorow rings be here start of next week. Then the assembly can begin Ignoring the awesome saftey equipment...or lack of. Pro engines sump adapter. Awesome bit of kit worth every dollar. Expensive box of valves. RB30 crank ready to go begging to be stressed. Various parts from old engine getting reused. WEAK STOMACH PEOPLE LOOK AWAY NOW. I take no responcibilty for the follow condtions. And last but not least the fuel for the builders

APHID: what intake manifold are you running? we are going to have issues with the clutch master fouling on the hypertune intake so we are trying to get around that. we have to run the spacers unfortunetly due to bigger the factory sump we have no clearance to play with.

done a small amount of work on thursday night drilled out the head oil drain back holes to large size. worked out the 4wd sump adapter (awesome quality kit) seems fairly simple to do once you read the instruction manual and spend some time working it out. hoping to start on the adapter tommorow and get that finished so the building can begin photos of semi-preped half concrete filled rb30 block will attack with grinder tommorrow to fit adapter. The pile of parts from old engine and parts for new engine....JUN stroker crank sitting there in perfect condition that someone should buy.

work on the motor starts tommorrow????. sump adapter coming this week. do people want photos of progress as its been SLAPPED together???

you have key on, foot on brake then push button in and move shifter? in that order. could be the locking pin needs adjusting (bending) might not be realising enough

I have 2 working Cam Angle Sensors for sale to suit all RB motors before R34 models. i got spares after having issue with CAS on dyno but turned out to be a wiring fault both have brackets. chasing 80 ono each. Can get pics if needed

what AFM are you using

just take a hammer to everything that gets in the way......ok go

i have one sitting on the shelf fixed reading to go if your interested.