nick81xd

I talked to a few people who have played with RB's and its apparently to help bleed the cooling system faster and more reliable. If thats true or not is anyones guess. The head was just a clean up. didnt remove that much material from the inlet that would warrent a flow bench. Exhaust side is after combustion so not critical, all ends up in same spot in turbo housing.

Dont know if people are watching/interested in the build but Started engine assembly today. Spent a few hours cleaning the block and removing the grub screws in crank to clean out all the material from machining. Had the very repeatative boring job of setting the ring gaps. The bit that everyone hates. Top rings required most filing being .004 from required gap. 2nd ring was almost exact measurement. Oil ring was close to minimum which is good (not that can file oil rings anyway) Dummy fitted the crank to measure end float, Very happy that its still within specs after having to linish the thrust surface. Forgot to get plasti-gauge out of toolbox so will be checking bearing clearances tommorow. Unfortunetly the small end clearance on the rods are a little tight for my liking so will have to get them honed out on monday to suit gudgeon. Not a big hurdle just a set back. Was aiming to have the bottom end bolted together by end of weekend . Full backyard washbay Matching each ringset to own cylinders The crap still in there after a quick washdown before removing screws makes you realise how important removing the factory slugs is. Dummy assembly for measuring

head is 90% ported just have to do the finishing sanding but they have come up good. Exhaust took alot of material off and reshaped the port to better match the manifold which will help get the gases out BEFORE AFTER The intake not alot was taken off just matched it to the gasket, enlarged it a bit and made the divider more sharper to elimate a small turbulant spot BEFORE AFTER Ignore the old gasket marks. It used to have a set of phenolic spacers which were oversized for some reason (read: cheap shit). Going a genuine intake gasket and it not matches that Noticed a weird ""modification"" done by someone before car was brought, someone has drilled into the head with a 5mm drill bit diagonally into the water jacket in the spots circled in the photos. Now i cant see any purpose to doing this as the water gallery flows around to the same spot anyway. It is stupidly close to the firing ring bite surface on a couple of cylinders so will have to get it welded up just to be on the safe side. Unless someone knows why this gets done?????. i can find anything about it

i nearly got caught out with the same thing. Once your looking at the parts apart it will make sense

the exhaust and inlet camshaft seals are different. the inlet will seam very big in ID but thats to allow for the stock VCT cam gear, The seal runs on the gear rather then the cam

Got the block and head back yesterday. He knocked it all over in one day so didnt get a chance to get any footage of machine work unfortunetly Block has had the usual acid bath and clean it has also been decked, bored and honed to .40 over. The oil return galleries have been enlarged to help the head drain oil back to sump Once bores were finished the skirt clearance again was checked for the final time and its just over 3 thou which should make a quiet (when warm) engine. Machine work as always great quality thanks to Ben at Bundaberg engine centre Head has been stripped down so can we massage the ports to match the gaskets and make the exhaust flow alot smoother and just a general clean up. All the valve guides are perfect so will be leaving them in. Once we have finished with ports then it can be dipped to make shiny again, skim'd, new valve seats cut (unsure what type of angle cut yet but have the possiblity for a 8 angle cut.....which would do shit all but it sounds good on paper ) most likely just do a 3 angle and then it will get reassembled with new faced valves, seals etc. Also throw in a set of baby poncams while at it. The fun parts ahead Can see how much extra material there is around the gasket to take off The ugly exhaust port which will take up most of the time

ive always just gone easy for first 500klm doing low to mid load as the klms rack up. just so if theres any issues it can be noticed and shut off early rather then when its on song in high revs

Theres been holds up with engine machine shop getting bit busy so work is slow going at the moment. These things happen when machinist works alone and theres a line up. On a good note the twin plate clutch from NPC arrived today. Got pulled apart marked and ready to be sent with the crank to the balance shop. Just waiting on some new bolts for flywheel so everything can be spun up as a complete assembly.

Small update. All parts are here except for the clutch. Unsure on how big to go for clutch just yet. Decisions need to be made as the crank assembly needs to be sent out for balancing as a complete assembly. Block machining should be started next wednesday hoping to get a few photos/(maybe videos) while thats being done for your viewing entertainment. Head is getting stripped this week to make a start on the port matching and bit extrathis weekend. Will get all the seats recut and valves refaced (all the usual repair work for head). Once thats done it can be all systems go for starting to assemble it Scat rods Box of shiny slugs.

Been shopping today. spending other peoples money is fun Ordered: CP pistons 87mm SCAT/PRECISION MOTORSPORT forged rods ACL race series big end and main bearings ATI Balancer COMETIC head gasket ARP main and head studs. Parts will be here later this week, then the block maching can begin

Im just building it for a mate so i just get all the fun parts of building not the driving part unfortunetly. Yeh hopefully the GTX proves itself to be a good choice and does what the owner wants (3rd gear pouring smoke while skidding at QR events). With all the little stuff planned for the engine to help reliability it should work out to be a fun hassle-free(ish) skid car.

Had a few measurements sorted today. Turns out there is 7 thou piston to bore clearance and 1 thou being wear. No wonder it was rattling like a old diesel tractor. Going to bore out the block to 40thou get it all acid dipped etc. Will be ordering a set of CP pistons, unsure of rod choice yet, Acl Race bearings, NPC clutch, Ross metal harmonic balancer, usual ARP studs. Getting all the rotating assembly balanced as a whole that way cause rev the bottom end to whatevers needed (providing the heads up to it), Got some money to send no we have a path to take.

sounds like its going to be fun thats for sure. Looking forward to the build thread

The fun begins again. After finishing a 26/30 engine build for a mates 34 GTR, another project began today. Going to be a full forged bottom end, Tomei poncams, 6Boost manifold, Greedy intake, GTX35R setup Not many non-workshop people building with the GTX turbos so can be a bit of a read for those interested Story. Car is a r32 with a 25 engine and box. It was brought from a guy from SAU in Brisbane pretty much as it sits driveline wise. The Setup contains: Greedy intake GT2871r turbo Ross Racing forged pistons ARP Headstuds N1 oil and water pumps NPC lightened flywheel Excedy Cushion button clutch 760cc injectors Link G4 ecu Was making 351hp on 19psi being very responsive down low to mid but hit a wall at 130kph and became very boring after that. Ever since not long after buying the car its shown that the engine has been built very poorly, massive amounts of blowby, heavy piston rattling cold and hot and just generally not a nice engine so with mid to top end power being wanted for better fun while at events simply bolting on the turbo setup and cranking it up wasnt a option willing to be taken. A tighter smoother engine rebuild has been chosen so can utilize the GTX turbo on big boost to make nice power. Today after pulling engine out and stripping down its apparent either the previous owner got ripped off by workshop or the current owner got fed lies when buying. The engine was rebuilt with the bare minimum parts. At a guess its popped a few stock cast pistons at some point so all the rebuild consisted of was a set of ross racing forged pistons and a MLS head gasket all the rest standard. The reason for the blowby and noise is the block has been overbored for the pistons and the ringgaps are way too big. Got some measuring to do but its ALOT of skirt clearance. Needless to say pulling it apart has probably saved alot of dramas down the track with failures. Photo time How the car sat as of this morning The mess that plenums hide below The baby turbo hiding there The nasty damage done to all pistons, wonder why it was rattly...... Crank collar and Flywheel GTX35R VS OLD GT2871R 6Boost Art Much prefer when its back from machine shop all clean The worst of the bore damage. You can see the thrust scuffing from the piston skirts How the car sits now at the end of the day Hopefully going to be a 3 month turn around for build will be slow updates at first.

E85 and that turbo with good supporting mods would make a very fun car thats for sure. It ended up being 9.1:1 compression. Thats about as low as could get it as orginally it was a 10:1 methanol setup. Uses argo I beam rods. We set rev limit based on nitto pump ATI balancer, balanced rotating assembly being able to handle more but keeping it safe. As you can see by graph the head setup keeps wanting more revs as its making power right to limiter

Clean out every single gallery, corner, cm of everything a couple of times. blow drying them all in between and then do it again. can never be too clean

Some cylinders are leaking more then others. clean it all and replace gasket. If it oils up again then you might have a engine issue

how many klms on engine? stock engine?. its not uncommon for oil residue to form around the gaskets on intake, replace plenum gasket and the runner gasket and you will be back running again

depending on what car it is in, with a 30 block everything from (pretty much) head gasket up moves up 3cms or so. the standard inlet can work but will hit on factory bonnet.

sent you a pm nissan power

yeah it takes away alot of the doughy down low lag. its no low mount twins gtr down low pick up thats for sure but its certainly driveable

Mark didnt give any estimates, given that it was making more power then expected its anyones guess. its not too bad down low as the compression and 3 0 make enough torque to move it along.

POWER FIGURES AND GRAPH BELOW!!!! After such a long wait and muck around (no fault of Mark at Godzilla), we have managed to get a copy of the dyno sheet. The engine responded very well to tuning with early stages showing results of 351hp on just 8psi backing off at 6700rpm. Then later 510hp on 15psi at peak revs of 8500rpm. Slowly easing in the boost to make sure all was good with tune, engine etc, next step was 17psi which it made 556hp. It was making power very easily just wanted more and more boost. It was getting close to unsafe injector duty figures so upped the fuel pressure 6 or so psi to give some more room to play. Mark asked if wanted to keep going, We set a figure for IDC(injector duty cycle) of 92% max and worked to that. On just a mere 20psi the car rolled up 592.5hp at all 4 wheels!!!! We were both amazed at the power level on small (for a T51r) boost levels, were expecting to run more towards 23-24psi to make that power. The plan was to keep pushing boost until fuel ran out, definetly werent expecting to run out at 20psi . As most would know a turbo the size of a T51r is barely working at 20psi and needs 25-30psi to get it really singing in its range. Keep in mind this is all on BP98 pump fuel so cant be happier with current stage of the car. Bigger set of injectors and more boost will be interesting to see what it does. Wont be doing that for sometime though

they are stuffed. the residual stain on the bottom of bush is clear evidence of the ""oil"" leaking out of bush.

Nah not going anything that crazy. Rebulid the box with stronger input shaft and gears, E85 isnt something even considered. looking at going down the TOL route for a break in the current trends of E85 everything. Spot on with the ecu change though. Vipec is a choice on the list, the old d-jetro FC is getting a bit dated nowdays. STILL WAITING ON TIM TO CALL MARK BACK UP TO GET A DYNO SHEET FROM HIM SO CAN POST UP THE POWER FIGURES