bubba

+1

EPIC FKN LOLS! Nice shirt dude, respekt

I killed two RB20 gearboxes with only 183rwkw, one behind the old RB20 and one behind the new RB30

I live EOC and just barely NOR.

Technically you're not putting it back to "stock" as there is still an RB30DET in there. We've already given our suggestions, now it's time for me to go home.

Don't you mean the 13th Dec? or is this not the SAUWA day?

r&r is rich&retard It is the result of the ecu's afm "over-voltage" protection. When the ECU sees more than it's set threshold of air flow, it retards the timing and throws in more fuel. For safetys sake, I would put the z32 afm back in and remap to suit the smaller injectors.

They do get R&R and when I put my 30 in and ran it off the standard (unchipped) ecu it hit R&R pretty much straight away and was maxing the stock afm by before 6000rpm. +1 for R&R I had to use a CEFFIE remap chip that had no R&R to get me through until I could get a full remap done to suit bigger injectors and afm.

o hai..

I don't think it was a case of "bouncing", but more one of suspension bottoming out hard enough to deploy the airbags.. There's a bump on South Western Hwy where Mudijong Rd hits it, if you're heading North and take the right hand lane past the turn off. I've hit that an 90kph in my 'line, something bottomed out, something went THUD. Nothing was broken and my non-existant airbags didn't deploy but fk, I have never taken that lane again

You might still have the problem.. sounds like sensor feedback or lack thereof

Gaskets schmaskets.. I use high temp gasket goo

wtf? what makes you say HICAS is killing the engine? that sounds pretty fkn strange..

It won't fk your car at all. It just essentially a remap of your stock ecu. Pinging (detonation) sounds like marbles on a tin roof or marbles in a milo tin being shaken. I'm running a remapped stock ecu (was from before Nistune came out and they could only do it on 32s back then) and it's running my 550cc injectors, z32 afm fine on a hybrid RB30DET. They have just as much potential as any other standalone ecu but without the fancy hand controller of the pfc.

9cm isn't very big.. it'd have to be a wiiidescreen 7".. the 7" touchscreen I have for my carpc, the screen itself is well over 9cm tall! I have a single din, non motorised item - couldn't be assed grafting things into the dash and I can put it away when I don't want it out

Wow, something funny going on there then..

12mm ring spanner STAT! I SAID RING SPANNER YOU STUPID NURSE, NO WONDER YOU DIDN'T MAKE IT INTO DOCTOR SCHOOL

wow! that was fkn awesome! lol

That image I posted above is from Nissan.. As for the speedo, it depends what has stopped working.. if it's the cable then no, HICAS won't work and neither will your speed sensitive steering. If the problem is after the cable (i.e. the speedo itself) then HICAS and speed sensitivy steering should still work (n.b. this only applies to S13/R32)

That doesn't make sense.. HICAS would be working whether you gunned it or not (if it did in fact work at slow speed) and it wouldn't suddenly snap in when you apply the gas.. sudden dynamic steering changes mid corner upon application of accelerator? lolwut? do you have traction control on when doing this? Maybe it works differently on 34s? I'm still rather certain HICAS (at least in 32s) does nothing at low speed. Found this, it pertains to HICAS in 240sx's.. can't be assed researching more right now.. so the question for now is: what is "moderate" speed?

I can't wait to have gate!

I don't think it's exclusive to 4drs as I have the same problem, I live with it as it's not that bad. Only time it is a problem is when I take my cooler piping off.. can never get it back in the right spot! It either sits the bonnet up further or it pushes the cooler pipe onto the fan shroud and makes horrible noises Just had a thought.. the 5mm flatbar we used to modify the 25 gearbox mount would be changing the angle that the engine sits on as the gearbox is 5mm lower at it's mounting point.. that would probably push the front of the engine up a bit more.. does that make sense?

Sounds about right. I've only recently whacked a new thermostat and water pump in there, before then I'm pretty sure the thermostat was getting stuck open as it would take AGES (read: 15-20mins) to get up to 80deg and would rise past there easily as if the thermostat wasn't opening fully.

Oh with my diff it will always pull back straight, but I think it was also partly the diff causing it to step out in the first place