bubba

Pretty sure it does nothing at low speeds, it's not like the 4WS systems of other cars (such as the mazdas etc)..

I had linglongs once.. they last long time.. because they're so fkn hard! Would spin 4th in the wet, 3rd in the dry and step out round wet corners without any throttle

^^ +1 These 595SS's wear REALLY well.. I've smoked my rears up plenty of times and I'm still astounded by how much tread is left on there lol

I think he was trying to go for the cheap option.. I'm a big proponent for remaps, my remapped ecu is running my hybrid quite nicely

I still see a problem with the fact that water cannot get read of the absorbed heat as fast as it absorbs it.. pump it slow enough that it can transfer heat to its' radiator and wouldn't that expose it to the heat source for longer? From what I've read and my understanding of the physics involved, I can't see it being a solution for long periods on boost.. on a street car that doesn't really matter but air-air is cheaper, lighter and less complex (read: less things to fk up).

There's not much difference between having some remap a stock ecu or an already chipped ecu, an eeprom still has to be burnt and soldered directly to the board or dropped into a cradle (most use cradles as the use a romulator to tune then burn a chip when done). IMO, don't bother with a generic chipped ecu. Buy the safc and have it tuned on a dyno.

So you have one of those bastardised turbos with the nissan rear housings? Also, I would steer clear of the Xforce hiflow cats unless it is the "racing" item, Catco or Metalcat seems to be where it's at

OK, this is what I have discovered about water-air intercooling.. Water can absorb the heat fast but this means it also takes a while to dissipate it. Water-Air cooling is only really good for short bursts (street driving where WOT is minimal at best, drag racing, sprints), any sort of sustained high rpm/boost/WOT (circuit racing) and air-air is the better way to go.

More top end I would imagine

LOL makes me want to rush the turbo installation and wind it right up so I can break it sooner and push her to 3.4L.. if only my bank account had the same sentiments lol

Squashed frog/flies eyes would be a bonus though.

You have the XR6T version yeah? with the 0.50 front cover? How does that affect compressor flow?

Scan it.

I run 225/45/17 at the front and 235/45/17 at the back (they didn't have any 245s ). I think the name of the place is Watts Western Rubber or something, it's on Guildford Rd like 2 streets from my house and is painted up yellow and black with Dunlop logos.

+1 ditch it

There we go, some substance! Thankyou Many people are too quick to come out with "oh you've got such and such, there's your problem". I wasn't aware that top end restriction was an issue with some JJR split dump, how bad is the overlap you've seen? would it be a flow restriction or the result of gasses bouncing back against the turbine (if the overlap was that bad)? Wasn't insinuating anything, just querying whether it was only a power run or it was in for a tune

$2.5k?! fair dinkum.

.63 is going to be tremendously small on a 3L.. maybe go .82 for now, it might help solve your problems and be more appropriate when you drop a 3L in there..

Where's my replacement card?!

Wogan, was there a tune in between those runs? I noticed you have a nistune board in there but I'm surprised at the lack of response compared to my old RB20 which was an untuned laggy POS but when it actually got on boost it went alright

HICAS does not work for parking. HICAS only operates over 80kmh and only about 1deg either way when 'X' amount of steering lock is applied. It is a safety feature for people that don't know how to drive, the theory is if you come too hot into a corner it induces understeer as Nissan figure that was a lot safer for novices drivers than oversteer. The problem I found with HICAS is the unpredictable snap oversteer when pushing my car hard.. it was also quite hard to change directions when doing 2nd gear burnouts on the brakes as the car just wanted to crab down the road with all wheels pointing in the same direction. So, im summary: it is not a turning or parking aid, it is a safety feature. When pushing my car to the limits I want only me in control, not some computer that thinks it's doing the right thing. Best $80 and a couple of hours I've spent on my car!

Edit: what he^^ said s1 25 turbo.. Well.. air leaving a turbo is hot due to it being compressed but turbos have efficiency ranges, this is where compressor maps come into it. Turbo compressors have an ideal range, below or above and it's losing too much efficiency which could be in terms of excess heat but not much more airflow. That was a VERY simple explanation but if you want something more indepth, check out www.turbobygarrett.com as they have some good articles that attempt to explain how to read compressor maps discopotato might also chime in

Why? we have already discussed this. Would be nice to substantiate what you are saying. Boost seems to be hitting about 500rpm later than my RB20 setup was and that wasn't even tuned.. 240rwhp is about on the money though. I would suggest that maybe 14psi isn't really doing anything other than pushing hot air.. here's my RB20 sheet: Red line was where we we tried to run 14psi but it pinged so dropped it back to 12 (as I wasn't tuning it at that point in time).

I have an aftermarket set at home that I was keeping aside to hack up to fit the new plenum.. I got two sets off ebay a while ago. Repco only had RB26 hoses when I was there a long time ago, worth giving them a try.

Close.. The 040 has an integral pickup on the base of the pump (i.e. it's part of it). The 044 was designed as an inline pump so has a fitting on either end, this allows you to fit a sock filter to the bottom. I have heard stories of 040's either sucking crap off the bottom of the tank and clogging up the integral pickup OR even sucking the bottom of the tank up!