bubba

I got some 1.6mm ally sheet and used the jigsaw to cut 2 strips out then bolted them from the afm/pod bolts back to the chassis, worked a treat and passed the pits fine. I also had one of my cooler pipes cable tied back to the waterpipe that comes off the manifold, in an effort to keep the pipe off the fan when the bonnet closed.. also passed the pits fine

+1 He also didn't say his speedo stopped working.

Flow and boost pressure are two completely different things. Pressure is a function of flow (velocity/force) by area. Yes turbos will flow more air at higher pressures (to a point), but what you're measuring on the engine is the turbos ability to create pressure against something (closed valves etc). If there was no restriction, you wouldn't be able to make above atmospheric pressure as the air would just flow straight through. This is also why by removing intake restrictions (bigger pipes, better flowing head etc) people can make the same power on less boost.. there's obviously always tradeoffs though

Post the dyno sheet, preferably with afr's.. I will address a couple of your points: it won't have anything to do with the wastegate hole in the dump being too small, if it was too small you would see massive overboosting. I also fail to see how an RB25 turbo could choke an RB20. It possibly could be the catback.. It could possibly be on the intake side as boost pressure is really just a measurement of restriction (i.e. you could have a restriction which results in the pressure you're seeing but flow would be limited).

Doesn't that obstruct your vision?

Probably includes labour.

Greg, I thought you were in Perth? we don't have to box our pods here, just make sure they're secured.

Ring the place you bought it from.

Federal 595SS's are good tyres for a good price, I pay retail of under $200 a corner from a local tyre joint. Oh and they take quite a hammering too

I've got an ARC box but haven't fitted it up.. brackets don't make sense and I need to devise a way to get cool air to the TOP of the box Looks like a nice bit of kit, basically it's a replacement airbox with a panel filter on top. Really needs a small scoop directly above it and some foam to seal to bonnet me thinks.

You don't NEED to rewire it, but with the old wiring it's probably a good idea. Might want to check what voltage the pump is actually seeing..

lol nice work

No, it's all about how much air is vented and how quickly. The harder the spring rate, the more pressure it will take to open fully so likely less air is escaping. Making it softer means it opens easier and more air is vented thus resulting in being richer than when it was hard. Too soft and it might be opening when you don't want it to..

Is it even possible to mount an 040 externally? I wouldn't think so with the integral pickup.. that's what the 044 is designed for but you can run them in tank with the sock filter setup.

Cops leave me alone most days.. I think not washing my car helps

Adriano, any idea on the ecu address for monitoring knock readings? In particular a 32gtst ecu.. I'm running remapped stock ecu and have a carpc with Datascan running all the time so would be nice to get a knock readout

Softer spring rate would be letting more air out.. Are you measuring afr's with a proper wideband? if not, I wouldn't bother paying much attention if it concerns you, get it on a dyno and use a wideband.

From what I've read of 26 cams in 20s with no mods, there are some idle issues as the valves are opening/closing sooner/later due to the ramp rates. I was applying this same theory to 25s because they both run hydraulic lifters. If it is able to be done without any mods, then someone please say so as I have looked into this several times and come to the same conclusion - that it's not a drop in affair.

I whacked a braided line in on the weekend (old rubber hose was weeping where it went into the slave cylinder), binned the distribution block and the cooler pipe. Clutch feels a LOT nicer now, not heavier or lighter but feels somewhat more "direct" if that makes sense

Ramp rates on the lobes are different for solid and hydraulic setup so you would either need to convert your heard to solid lifter setup ($$) or have the cams reground to suit hydraulic lifters.

I used a couple of the circlips that were holding the old shifter in to space the block up. The 32gtst box has a shorter snout than the 33gtst box and as such that block doesn't clamp on properly.. you may find you have a 33gtst shifter.. When I put my shifter onto the 25 box it all fitted fine.

Only in the short term, it's not really suited to sustained rpm circuit racing because while water can absorb a lot of temperature, it takes quite some time to lose that temperature too.. my understanding is it's more suited for street applications where you're not on boost practically ALL of the time.

Mine is remapped now but when the 044 originally went in it wasn't remapped and I still had the RB20 in there. Did you redo the wiring at all? if not then that is the likely culprit.. pretty sure these pumps don't like the lower voltages and when I had my tuner install mine he rewired it for constant 12v (instead of dropping voltage when at idle etc). Could be just a case of old wiring or bad earth, I would be rewiring

No you won't need a fpr.. My guess is it's sucking up crap from the bottom of the tank, I'm not a fan of those integral pickup pumps. I went for an 044 with a sock filter setup and have no dramas.

If you want your rb20 intake manifold to bolt on then you need to use an R32 RB25DE head, the R33 RB25DET heads have a different bolt pattern. With an R32 RB25DE head you can use everything off the RB20 but you need to modify the power steering bracket (cut back the top boss so it can bolt onto the RB30 block instead of the head, that goes for whatever head you're using). Easiest, cheapest, most straight forward swap into a 32 is with the R32 RB25DE head but it then limits you as far as intake options go, there's no GReddy plenum that will fit etc etc. I had to go for a custom plenum.