bubba

I get that occaisionally but it didn't smell like oil or anything burning.. I was very disturbed to begin with but after I figured out nothing was on fire and everything was operating correctly.. I forgot about it

I'm using an 044 in tank, IMO you're better off using an 044 with a stock-like sock filter setup.

From what I can see they are the same but just mount onto the crossover pipe differently..

mmmm GT35R

OH such WISE words

lol yeah man, over 6k it dies in the ass bad - makes is real hard to hold slides and I don't like trying to hit 3rd while sideways

I wouldn't exactly say an ETM manifold is better than a 6boost manifold, they are both top of the range! what you would get if hers is still available is a proven setup that would be straight bolt on. Her setup isn't choking, she said it was still climbing when it hit the 8000rpm limiter.. if a .82 doesn't choke a 30 I really don't see a .63 choking a 25. I believe my setup is THE definition of choking *smirk* ~250rwhp @ 4600rpm which holds till about 5800rpm then in the space of 1000rpm it drops to 90rwhp

My powers of deduction tell me that the GT35R .63 housing has made 345rwkw @ 21psi on msnismo's RB25, doesn't sound like it's choking up but I was say that it's probably nearing the limits of the .63 housing.. Might be worth seeing if her setup is still for sale.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...gh-t238142.html

Nope. I think it would be as reponsive as the .82 on a 3L is reported to be.. Or a custom manifold using a GTR plenum for less than half that price.. you might even find the runners line up better with the 25t manifold! lol

1. if the gearbox doesn't need any electrical input then it will just do it's mechanical thing and not batt an eyelid. If the auto is fully built then it shouldn't need anything like ignition cut on changes etc. 2. nfi 3. nfi 4. get the front half cut short and then the whole lot rebalanced.

I would maybe consider a smaller exhaust housing then.. .63 on a 25 would make for better response at the cost of higher peak power down the track.

If it was me, I'd be keeping at least $1000 aside. That way if there is any unforseen issues/problems, they can be dealt with immediately instead of the build stalling

I thought it was more like 43.5psi (aka 3bar) with the vaccum hose off..

I take it you're going to have a workshop install it? definately keep some slush fundage then. Everything may appear straight forward on paper but is rarely the case unless the turbo is a direct bolt on to stock manifolds Have you thought about what you're going to do when the stock crossover pipe (the one with the bov) doesn't fit next to the turbo? P.S. I'm putting the exact same turbo on my engine, you may be able to get away with things like 120deg pipe to throttlebody where I couldn't. I have had to go custom forward facing plenum due to the extra height of the 30.

DO IT. Just make sure it's not one of those supposedly "bolt on" turbos.. the ones with bastardised Nissan exhaust housings.. Also make sure you have some slush to account for things that may require modification!

Hmm cool, cheers Anyone want to buy a whiteline front swaybar for a 32gtst?

lol good to hear you suss'd it out!

Will the trust sump extension fit? I was going to get a High Energy sump as they are teh shiz and are a proven setup, but for ~$940 (trade) I want to make sure it will fit before I fork out for it Edit: I can only find trust extensions for RB26, SR20 and 13B

Need to know whether they fit around a big sway bar.. Saw something mentioned somewhere (can't remember where!) that someone ahs modified their sump to fit around teh sway bar.. looking at getting a Pro-circuit High Energy RB30 sump but it's a huge outlay if it doesn't fit..

wtf is a wastegate opening percentage? The settings are SET (% increase over actuator pressure), GAIN (used to help with tapering or creeping boost, read in %), SETGAIN (used to hold the wastegate shut till desired pressure, reads in psi or bar), the rest are for warnings/alarms. SET and GAIN both affect overall boost, SETGAIN holds the gate shut for as long as you want but it can't be set too high or it will spike. I've been over this before but basically, start with a reasonable SET value (roughly work out what percentage increase you need.. 5psi -> 10psi = 100%) - don't go too high as the GAIN function will ultimately affect overall boost so start with a reasonable SET settings and then bump it up after you have used the GAIN setting to level out any taper or creep. Once you get it holding the boost level you want, use the SETGAIN feature to bring the boost on faster - keep increasing it in small increments until it spikes then back it off a little. It's not rocket surgery!

I know, I was just stating my experience with another kind of cat for the guy that asked

I was running a decat pipe for a long time and never experienced any of the symptoms you state.. sounds like you had an exhaust leak near a cabin opening.. I have tried a 3" X-force "high flow" cat (the ones that are similar shape to stock) and they suck in my application.

Roll Right tyres in Balcatta.

Nope, I feared they would want me to get it engineered (as it's a 50% capacity increase) but they didn't. I don't have a big highmount turbo hanging off the side so that probably helped but I do have bigger everything (brakes, clutch, gearbox, tailshaft, diff) so it wouldn't have been much of a drama if they did want it engineered, only $$. They did take it for a drive though and must have felt everything was acceptable *shrug* I think ADR's limit an unengineered swap up to 25% or something silly like that so if there were legal problems, it would be more legal to drop a 30 into an R33.. Edit: oh I did get a REALLY nice inspector at the pits tho, he really liked skylines and thanked me afterwards for having a drive of my car

I guess it depends on state but mine is registered with the RB30DET here in WA