bubba

LOL I love the challenge that is presented when it rains on my way to work

Gold!

Sorry Crans, I barely have enough time to work on my own car but I'm sure these nice boys that posted above me will help

2.5k sounds rather excessive when I got quoted $800 to remove/refit the engine in my old lady's 911. I've done many engine in/outs on skylines and skyline powered vehicles and it is nowhere near as hard as the stupid complex German car.

I hear ya.. twincam 30 + button clutch + Nismo 2-way = funfun

Yes it will all work. All RB20 ancillaries will bolt on but the power steering bracket needs to be modified. Yes, an r33 turbo will hit its limits early.. mine makes 12psi by 2200rpm, ~250rwhp @ ~4600rpm and noses over rather severely at about 5800rpm so bad that by the time it hits the 6800rpm limiter it's only making 90rwhp. P.S. Search is your friend, people get sick of repeating themselves

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Nathan.. you need a new hobby I tried a 3/4pounder once and nearly started shitting before I'd finished eating!

I made my mechanic mate do it as he has little hands but I think it would be infinitely harder with a 26 plenum in the way.. that's if it's even the place I'm thinking of

3bar fuel system

Yes I have noticed that, it also sits about an inch lower in my car than the same type of radiator in a mates car.. can't figure it out had to turn the little retainer brackets upside down. I'm actually about to take it out in favour of a serviced gtr radiator or something completely custom.. rising temps on the highway doesn't make me feel comfortable and before anyone asks, the rest of the cooling system is mint.

I split one of those heater hoses that runs behind the engine (next to firewall) on the dyno and it nearly ended in tears. Had to go pick it up and limp it back to the workshop running rich as hell, was a prick to fix too

I'm running an N1 pump and I see 100psi on cold start (I also belief the relief spring is 100psi), at normal operating temp I see 10-20psi at idle depending on oil temp. 40psi ~2000rpm, 60psi ~3000rpm, 80psi ~4000rpm and from about 5000rpm onwards it's hitting 100psi.

You can build a reponsive 400awkw.. you just need money and an RB30 with twin 2540s..

Factory sensor threads into the block on the same side as the oil filter but further towards the back of the engine. I put a T here and ran the sender for my aftermarket gauge off the same spot with the stock sender still installed.

HD organic clutches are teh suck. I believe my clutch is the biggest, baddest single plate you can get and it gets mucho clutch drops aswell as putting along nicely in traffic. I must say it was a prick to drive with when I still had the RB20, but with the 3L torque it's a dream!

Just telling it how it is if you have the means/tools/space to do stuff, it can be done on a budget. If you don't and aren't prepared to pay through the nose for labour, then forget about modifying cars The only investment cars are old classics that you bought a long time ago, it is very very rare to make money off a car nowadays. That being said, it can be done.. a mates boss went to Powercruise over east last year and came home with an LX A9X that he paid 60k for, brought it back over here and sold it for 140k a matter of months later! He then poured that cash into a HK Monaro with a 6/71 blower hanging out the bonnet

Your bro needs to spend more time tuning the ebc then. I have a ProfecBII and it works perfectly fine. Early on I was getting some spikes when coming on boost (comes on boost really hard really early.. 25 turbo on a 30..) and it was spiking up slightly and hitting the overboost threshold and thus dropping back to my overboost setting. I dropped the SETGAIN (the pressure it holds the gate shut until) 0.2psi aswell as increasing the overboost setting (so instead of dropping back to 0% it dropped back to only a few % below what the SET % is) and it's mint You need to slowly tweak all the settings in conjunction with each other, start with a reasonable % increase then use the GAIN setting to tweak out any creep or tapering. Then you can bump the SET % up to run the desired boost setting (don't go straight to this level from the start as the GAIN setting affects boost levels). Once it holds the boost level you want nicely you can start bumping up the SET GAIN to bring the boost on a lot faster, keeping bumping it up slowly until it spikes then back it off.

It's because we just slapped it together with standard spec bearings. Had it reground, fresh bearings (I run NDC with no dramas, japs ftw), new oil pump and have done another 10,000 odd (hard) km with no dramas

o hai! If you have the time, tools and money then building an RB30 is really no different to building any other motor. If you want a nice drop in package with a stock motor, either buy a halfcut or sell your NA and buy a GTSt. o hai again! my motor as it is right now owes me about 4k, and that's to just make the same power as my RB20 was making (albeit a lot earlier). Then start adding in things like GT35R (1.6k), new manifolds, custom pipework etc etc etc Easily at least a 10k excercise in just parts. I also do not agree with people who modify cars while thinking about what they'll get for it when they sell it. That isn't the point of modifying cars. You will never EVER make back anywhere near what you spent, but that isn't the point - it's all about YOUR enjoyment. If it's what you like and what you want to do, then do it. Just don't expect to make any of your money back

I just reused a bit of rubber hose and clamps that were already located somewhere on the power steering circuit, can't remember exactly where.

Get the crank ground for oversize bearings just to be on the safe side.. I didn't to start with and turned out the crank had some massive end-float and it munched out my thrust washers and nearly ended in big tears. For the $120 to get the crank machined and the ~$80 for .010 oversize bearings, I should have done it to begin with and I wouldn't have had to pull the motor out again!

Standard clutch mate. I have a 4-puck Exedy cushioned brass button clutch and it takes a pounding

+1 to fuel pump. Mine is especially loud when the fuel is hot.

You don't count though