bubba

Hydraulic not pneumatic I removed that solenoid also just leaving a plug there. The only thing I can tell that I did differently is that I haven't removed the impellors from the pump yet (which shouldn't make a difference), just looped it back into the resevoir. My steering has been fine ever since I did it up until a couple of weeks ago when the needle snapped off the speedo. Put a new cable in when putting the 25 box in on the weekend along with 280k dash and steering is back to normal. Oh, is the HICAS unit still plugged in? it's in the boot under the parcel shelf.. All I can think of that would flip the power steering out is loss of speed signal, hicas ecu disconnected and steering angle sensor off/screwed. When I put my boss kit on I noticed steering angle sensor thingo is a pretty fragile setup.. You may have already said but, how long has it been happening for? before or after you installed lockbar?

It's just like setting up the spur gear on your r/c car

Mate, so your speedo doesn't work? that explains the steering going heavy after a few mins.

How odd. I've removed all my HICAS stuff except the HICAS ecu in the boot. Hicas light on the dash is on but my steering is fine. Does your speedo work?

Was it remapped AFTER you changed afm's?

</starts to get really worried..> That's probably not an image you want to encourage Dale P.S. Brad, black leather with shiny buckles..

Don't you measure base idle pressure with the vacuum hose removed? Agree with GeeTR with things to check first

Your mecahnic was right. If it sounds like it's coming from outside/underneath the car then yes, spraying the pedal won't do much at all.

Should only need to take the throttle body off and allthewaytothesky, tried a wrecker?

It actually goes into OPEN loop mode when you put your foot down. CLOSED loop is at idle or cruise (vacuum) and uses the O2 sensor output to regulate fuel input. I also get similar consumption as you.

Good call.

Pedal should be fine, just don't spray it into the bellhousing in an attempt to lubricate the fork

I was under the impression they are a 3bar system (~45psi or 300kPa) and were a 1:1 rising rate regulator.

Sounds like a great idea! </sarcasm>

It's not a waste of money! It's all in the name of fun! (I try NOT to keep track of how much my engine/drivetrain conversion cost me )

Try some new oil first bro, I put ls90 in on the weekend and it's gotten rid of pretty much all the clunks etc. It used to be an absolute dog first thing in the morning that it would shake the car, now it's barely noticable, can still hear the clutches chattering but it barely shakes the car in the morning and after driving for a while it doesn't do it at all.

My comment doesn't suck, I would imagine it has very SIMILAR spooling characteristics as my engine. Yes it may spool quicker but it will choke top end. Also how do you figure that a turbo that flows LESS air will make MORE power??

I hope my 30 with steampipe high mounted 35R and 44mm gate sounds REALLY nasteh

Wheezy: just copper washers from the box of assorted copper washers limpus: I didn't want to screw around with resistors or ballast pack so bought brand now high impedance items. alltheway: yes you DEFINATELY need a tune if changing injectors. I'm running my RB30 with 550cc injectors and z32 afm on a remapped rb20 ecu.

I'm like a wife.. just because you bought me some new shoes, doesn't mean I'll stop nagging Cheers

Maybe you have have s2 33 afm but a s1 engine.. Man a 32 turbo on a 25 must be like the 25 turbo on my 30.. minus a bunch of torque

That sounds more complicated than my way we had a 32gtst w/26 in the shop so just copied that setup but with thicker flat Nope, my impression was that was for 23T (bigger gear) so it doesn't push as hard against the pinion. My mechanic has been running a standard 17T Navara sender in his 25 box for years with no problems. Edit: I'm more worried about the funky bends in the brand new speedo cable

My tuner said it's a common problem with the older Denso made injectors (SARD etc), used ~2mm of copper washers around the neck of the injector (I think the rail end but i'll check when it's not nearly 40deg outside ). Basically the injectors kept popping out of the manifold slightly when it came on boost (ergo leaking fuel), the washers just take up the slack and hold the injectors tight into the manifold. I guess this means they're a couple of mm too short..

My thoughts if you're going to run a 38 on a lowboost run in setup, likely to have overboosting issues..

I was advised to get TiAl and only TiAl. Got a 44mm TiAl gate to go on my 25/30 with the same turbo Edit: got my gate off a guy on ebay from the US for a reasonable price.