bubba

Interesting.. I'm heading up there in the morning to pick up speedo parts.. here's hoping

ROFL! Shall we go down and see if we can figure out who the ass belongs to?

Can I contact you if I suddenly get arrested? Welcome people

I'll meet you on the 3rd moon of Jupiter for runs in one hour ok?

Cheap if you plan on sticking with the stock turbo, a bigger snail you should start looking at other things.. at the very least keep the pistons that came with the 30 and just get the crank machined. Can't help you with things like VCT etc as my head doesn't have that but there is a wealth of information in the Forced Induction section. Don't get me wrong, I love preaching the RB30 (I have one after all ) but the guy was after the cheapest option that would get his car back on the road ASAP. By the sounds of it though he's reasonably cluey with engines and has the capacity to strip them down at least.. Building a twincam 30 isn't a HUGE adventure and if you have access to a workshop/tools then it's even easier. We did my conversion in a weekend, started Saturday morning, went to Manson concert Sat night and got back into it Sunday, drove it home ~2am Monday morning

Just have to make sure you block the PCV if you're going to vent to atmo, the only issue it will cause with idle is if there is a vacuum leak. I run mine vented to atmo.

Mate use the search facility and read the abundance of information available on this wonderful forum. You were going on like what you wanted was equivalent to flying to the moon yet someone has done it. Most people are happy to answer questions but usually when they're specific, not to facilitate pipe dreams.

Sounds like a plan

I envy.

Picked up the monitor and psu on wednesday, just going a cheap non motorised non touch screen monitor for now, will likely upgrade once everything is sorted. Yes the powersupply has the different voltage rails but not an abundance of plugs which is fine. Prefer to use my m-ATX board I've got here as I believe the extra PCI slots will come in handy when I decide to put some cameras in the car. Have pretty much everything I need at the moment, going to butcher an old case to get the slot mounts and use some 16mm MDF I have lying around for the base, back and side and perspex for the top and front. Using an old IDE 40Gb HDD so if it dies due to vibration then so be it and I'll invest in a solid state drive if it comes to that. Looking at inputs now, need to find a small track ball and a USB mini-keyboard and likely a USB dvd drive that I will just plug in when needed. Edit: if you've got a bit of cash and want a comprehensive walkthrough on how to build a particular DIN sized carpc with specific components, I have a book that tells you exactly how to do it. I bought it just to get an idea on how others have done it and while being a bit too basic for me and not entirely applicable, would likely be a benefit to someone willing to buy fancy new stuff to build theirs Also as mine will not be primarily a media centre, I wan't to retain my head unit in one of the three din slots I have so am not building an "in-dash" PC.

R35 GTR hey? pipedream?

My 20 box is soft heh, I think I've dropped 2nd a few too many times.. she's started making some funky noises! Just realised this is on a Thursday.. definately won't be there

Ugh highly doubt the 25 box will be in by then, this part of the year is always so busy!

I try not to keep track of the money spent.. it's easier on your mind that way and if the Mrs asks it's easier to say "I've got no idea.. want a new pair of shoes?"

Yeah my intank 044 buzzes, it's their nature, does get noticably louder when the fuel is hot (long drives or stuck in traffic for a while).

+1

That's pretty dodgy. Simon/Cubes: This factory restrictor.. is it actually part of the factory banjo (block side)? If so I can just reuse the factory banjo and have a braided line soldered (braised? whatever) on?

Pretty sure they are interchangable, my head came with a brown water temp sensor (which I believe is the same as RB25DET's), different resistance so the ecu ran in cold start all the time. Swapped it with a yellow sensor of an RB26 plenum (the old RB20 one that I snapped was yellow) and it works fine. I wasn't aware that RB25DET's had a different firing order.. thought it was just reversed injector pinouts or something on the ecu.. Yours is s2 yeah? you'll need to keep your s2 coils if keeping the powerfc. If you were to change to a 20 ecu you'd need 20/26/25s1 coils to suit. Have you considered injectors yet? 25DE plenum is practically identical to a 20DET plenum (slightly larger ports though) and as such run the same injector style as RB20's meaning your 25DET items won't bolt up. IMO in a 33 you'd be better off using the 25DET head, for me in a 32 the 25DE was a major benefit as it all worked straight away and everything was in the same spot

Nice work

Yuck. Good luck!

There would also be things like water temp sensors etc which would need to be swapped for the RB20 items. I'm using the standard intake manifold for now, am building a custom out of a GTR plenum. If you are using a 25DET head then you have the option of Greddy/copy plenums, I don't have that luxury Bonnet currently rubs slightly on the very forward corner of the standard intake plenum and barely on the timing belt cover. No modified engine mounts or anything like that.

NDC are good and cheap, I run them in my 30. Lightly hone the bores if they're scored ($?), new rings($?), machine the crank (cost me $120 and $80 for a set of bearings), put it back together.

Off a guy over east but it's for my 32 phenline so not much help to you

I would just feel gay going to a dyno day to make 245rwhp.. hell a stock 26 is going to make more than that! How about a "most torque in a rwd 32" class?

Not much point entering, even when the big turbo goes on, there is some big $$ 26's out there that I'd be competing against!