bubba

AFAIK running in is only required to bed new piston rings in..

SAFC would help but to get the best gains you need to adjust timing in offboost areas. Another thought, preferable to get a s1 25 turbo with the steel front wheel, the nylon compressor wheels really don't like extra boost.

270cc.. To run GTR injectors you need the GTR resistor pack or to solder appropriate resistors into the injector loom, then a tune/remap so the ecu can run the injectors.

Bragging rights over those dirty easterners?

Midland pits, older big jolly (read: beergut) guy, can't remember his name but he was rather sympathetic to our cause and complimented me on the car and all skylines in general.

Get a fmic asap or at least an r34 smic, your stocker is going to heatsoak pretty quick with the extra air and will be restrictive too. As for the nipple, stock RB20 turbo's have a nipple on the compressor housing, this is for a vac hose to the wastegate actuator. Any boost source will do (before the throttle body) but best to put it as close to the compressor outlet as possible The elbow is an alloy 90deg elbow that bolts to the turbo compressor outlet, 25 item is bigger than the 20.

Maybe he lives under a rock?

www.motorplex.com.au whoopass wednesdays.

I was given 10 days on the original sticker from the cops, first roll over the pits got given a list of 4 easy items AND 21 days to bring it back.

Ahh yes, I forget not everyone can do a lot themselves Use standard pistons in the above setup, you're doing a standard bottom end with a freshened up crank. A CHEAP upgrade, I'm not talking full blown forged everything with crazy stuff, a lot of people get carried away. GTST, read my post.. I accounted for all of these EXCEPT LABOUR. Afterall, I said guesstimates, something to entice the person to look further into it. At the end of the day, talk to your mechanic (assuming you have a reliable mechanic) as he will be the one doing the bulk of the work. RB30's aren't a scary adventure as a lot of people make out, hell we did the conversion in my car in a weekend. In short, I just can't justify spending 6k on an RB20, each to their own. Edit: as far as licensing goes, I don't know about other states but my car is registered with an RB30, passed the pits fine no engineering required. Then again I don't have a bigass turbo hanging off the side yet and it all looks stock under the bonnet. IMO that would be the smartest way to do it.

More than 10% lag over stock? yes. Need a remap/ecu? no. It would help with the extra lag but not needed. My RB20 made 183rwkw with a 25 turbo @ 12psi untuned and definately went better than the stock 20 turbo on 14psi. The only thing I would say you NEED is to make sure you have a decent fuel pump (I have an 044 intank). Get the RB25 turbo over another stocker mate, easy upgrade and will be fine - just pay attention for knock when you're winding the boost up, 12psi was all I could run untuned without dropping the timing back which would make the offboost even worse.

Start with a standard rebuild RB30DET with all the R32 bits on it and put an rb25 turbo (with a vg30 rear housing if you can find one). I had the good fortune to be offered a prepped block with forgies for a nice price but a standard rebuild would cost similarly. Use an R32 RB25DE head and you can run your standard injectors, afm and ecu, I had mine remapped to run z32 afm and 550cc injectors. Same turbo that was on the 20 (for now) and it makes the same peak power.. just a hell of a lot earlier! You could easily build a standard motor for around 2k.. My guesstimates: Complete RB30E - ~$200 RB25DE head - ~$400 Timing belt - ~$100 Water pump - ~$110 Standard oil pump - ?? not sure, my N1 was $410 so lets say $150? Crank machining - ~$120 Bearings (mains & bigends) - ~$100 Thermostat - ~$50 OEM headgasket - think this was only about $120 That brings us to ~$1350.. Call it $1500 for other little ancillaries and various shit you always end up needing when doing these things That leaves more than enough for a set of injectors (~$900), z32 afm (~$300 w/ plug), RB25 turbo + VG30 rear housing ($500?), remap tune ($6-800?) So for approximately $4k you could have a REALLY torquey ~200rwkw which would be ready to bolt a GT30 onto the stock manifold in the future and make some decent numbers Personally, I have a GT35R waiting to go on mine.

The paint would only cost that much if you were going some special colour (such as some of the Ford and Holden colours.. I think they can be up to $600/L!). Basically when it comes down to it, 32's are pretty old

Yeah sorry mate, however much I would love to satisfy your ghey fantasies, I just can't go there

Cheers, read that earlier in between work stuff but must have missed the bit at the top.. so 4.3 is 21T, 4.1 is 20T and 3.5 is 17T. Logic dictates that I would need 19T for 3.9s.. anyone know if a 19T cog is available?

$23.98 for a new radiator cap from my local Nissan dealer, also was quoted $108.68 for a new OEM RB20 water pump and $54.76 for a new standard thermostat. Not too shabby if you ask me, picking them up tomorrow

My guess is the non-return valve wasn't re-installed with the new pump (no dramas, mine wasn't either), just means you have to start it before the priming stops or the fuel flows back into the tank. Prime for a couple of seconds and start it before it stops priming.

I wouldn't want to associate with those mexicans.. jks

Be handy if I know what the ratio was.. hence asking if anyone knows the worm gear side. If not I'll measure in on the weekend.

Apparently. My mates auto-eleccy said bring it down and he'll fix it up for me. Now that I need to throw a 25 box in (current box has started making some not-very-nice input shaft bearing noises after boxing day burnouts) I figure I'll either try to solve it with a correct toothed speedo cog, or just do what everyone else has done and get the auto-eleccy to fix it. Cya in an hour or two avrahan

Try Fleetwood homes and the contractors they employ. My mate is a sparky working for them sort of..

Awww how sweet! lol Nah not quite that sinister, nothing like a prison "beating"

I have 3.9 gears in my diff so was trying to figure out if there's a speedo cog more suited to those gears so I can kill two birds with one stone so to speak

25 box going in soon and am trying to get my head around this whole speedo drive deal.. Question I have is: what final drive ratios does the Navara 17T gear suit? Question 2: anyone know how many teeth are on the worm drive in the gearbox?

Lots of fun, I don't regret my 2way - she's very tight though and makes for funny looks in carparks etc