bubba

I feel your pain Topaz, I hate those kind of drivers with a passion! And I agree that the road toll should also be shown as a percentage ratio, IMO to do otherwise is misleading and scaremongering. Anyone happen to know the figures on adult population increase for the last 5 years?

It's the stud pattern on the plenum side which is different, it is the same as RB20 - 25 greddy plenums don't bolt up which is why I'm getting a RIPS item. Cams are the same as my mate had poncams in this head before I got it.

Could the timing belt be a tooth out?

Yup read that thread, we did my conversion in a weekend and I think the only modification we had to perform was on the powersteering pump bracket (on the 20 the top bolt goes to the head and the bracket has a longer boss for that one, had to cut it flush with the two lower bolts as on the 30 all 3 bolt to the block). Other than that, we just swapped everything off the 20 and bolted it all back in. Oh you may have clearance problems with your front pipe.. mine hung pretty low to begin with and some slight massaging of the floor pan at the front gave me enough clearance to pass the pits

The road toll is increasing regardless of ANY measures they have put in place. You would think they would stop and assess the situation, but as we all know, it's more about the PERCEPTION of doing something.

<feels left out>

Some crude measurements of the GT35R left us thinking it will hit the strut tower if on a low mount in the stock location. Can't be assed with squeezing stuff in so going high mount instead along with a RIPS plenum. (low mount I would have been able to keep the stock plenum and piping). Looks like I'm going to use a TuneAgent exhaust manifold too

Well TBH it went away after the motor came out and went back in. Did adjust the clutch at the top of pedal to bring the friction point off the floor. Someone reckons it could have been due to the endfloat the last crank had..

I have a 25 short shifter and had to swap the nylon bush for the stock 20 item as it's smaller than the 25 one. I have a C's btw and it did come with everything needed. I did need to add a spacer in so that the housing clamped tight on the 20 box.. seems like it snout that shifter comes out of could be shorter on a 20 box *shrug*.

dano, I've already got one lined up And 33's must have more clearance standard than 32's.. standard mounts and my bonnet rubs on the front of the intake manifold and the timing belt cover, that's with 10mm spacers at the back (all the spacers did was stop the bonnet from flexing as much when I shut it )

I reckon there's something dodgy going on if you have height issues with a 25.. I had height issues but that's because the 30 block is taller.. I had to remove my strut brace but put swaybars on around the same time which made up for it.

Mine snapped at the ball end, sheered it right off. Replaced it with one out of a Serena gearbox that was lying around.. looks like a heavier duty item than the one in my RB20 box (the Serena one had the taper up to the ball whereas the stock one didn't).

RB25DE is not the same as RB25DET.. I have an Rb25DE head and need RB20 items.. can't wait for my RIPS plenum

To a 33? not that I know of. Could try Hyperdrive, they remapped my 32 ecu but don't know if they can do 33 ecu's.

Couple of mates have bad experiences with B&M shifters on their powerglides.. dodgy mexican sh!t.

Never used a Nismo item but the claimed reduction in throw is greater than the Nismo item.

Maybe now I won't get chopped as hard by that S14 with gate O_o

I'll check it out on my way home, Mt Lawley is between my work and home.. If it's dodge, I'll reverse up the driveway and paint some lines

Coils should be ok, AFAIK s1 rb25 is the same as rb20. I don't think it's a case of fitting the head but fitting the loom.. Not sure about the PFC, I would imagine some wiring changes would need to be made to suit the ignition and injectors drivers. Easier option would probably be a 32 GTR PFC.. sell your 25 PFC for an inflated price (like everyone is doing) and buy a GTR PFC for half the price that is if it would work in that body type..

Nah man, turbo isn't going on till after Xmas, waiting on my plenum and need to get a wastegate, then there'll be a bunch of piping to be made I did realise however, that my boost controller wasn't turned on that night

I just put a Nismo 2way in my car yesterday, had the centre put in another housing with different gears by a pro. Was a little concerned when I realised I got a pair of right side halfshaft/flangeaxle thingos but after looking at the standard ones there was no way they would work. The Nismo came as basically a full rebuild kit, new bearings, seals, flanges, bolts etc. Bit clunky but expected that, certainly a LOT more drive out of corners and a lot more predictable. I do have HICAS removed aswell so with the nice suspension and no computer steering for me it's a thoroughly enjoyable drive

I think if you block the PCV you need to vent to atmo, not feed it back into the intake pipe. Mine is setup as follows: PCV blocked. IN & EX cam covers linked, then to catch can, vent to atmo.

I will most likely attend

What is the best way to go about recalibrating the speedo in my 32 gtst? Changed diff ratios to 3.9:1 on the weekend and I'm wondering whether there is a speedo drive cog that would suit and be an easy solution or if I need to get my speedo in the cluster tinkered with by a professional? Any ideas? Cheers

The pistons weren't *new*, I got the block, pistons and head off my mate, engine had been running making 460rwhp for about 5000km so it was pretty well run in