bubba

^^ Had pretty much the exact same thing as Cubes, lockbar fixed it

I'm having the exact same problem but with stock 33gtst rotors and bendix ultimate pads. It's got us stumped, the only thing that has had any effect on the squeeling was lubing between the calipers and the back of the pads but even that only last a couple of days. Doesn't do it EVERY time but more often than not and it's when I brake lightly coming up to traffic lights etc. Mechanic says he can feel a vibration when it does it.. going to try skim the rotors next and see if that helps.

Don't know about other states, but I just passed the pits here in WA this morning with no coil cover on.

Mortgage + expensive hobbies (cars, rc trucks, paintball) isn't easy.. but we all do what we can to have our fun!

Bingo

I hammered my RB20 turbo at 14psi everyday, and again with the 25 turbo at 12psi. No problems whatsoever Then I got sick of no bottom end and having to give it 3k and drop the clutch to take a gap in traffic.. RB30 FTW!

Is this crap still going? Like I said earlier.. R32 + RB30 = YAMFL

:laughing-smiley-014:

Any word on 32 items?

I ran 14psi for 6months through the RB20 turbo before I whacked a 25 turbo on. Only ran 12psi then as it pinged over 6000rpm due to being untuned

Should be a little black box attached to the aircon fan shroud.

I'm picking a pair up from Nissan tomorrow among some other things. No idea what they're going to cost but I've heard the universal ones are sh~t

Shorter runners = better top end response but less torque down low (I think that's how it works). The standard 25DE intake manifold I have is proven to be good for nearly 500rwhp. Ports are slightly bigger than the RB20 manifolds. More than enough for my current goals.

Whenever one of my silicon joiners pops off it sounds like a dull WHUMP followed by a bit of pssst. Sounds works that it actually is. Then drives like a pig depending how big a gap has opened up and as soon as you start to make positive pressure, wants to stall. +1 for cooler piping.

I like the sound of that rumour, I'll probably just get a cefiro Xmember and see how it goes. Any idea what the actual difference (structure wise) between a Cefiro and R32 Xmember is? The only places I need to clear are the timing belt cover (barely touching) and the cold pipe going to the throttle body. Had to lose the stock crossover pipe as the stock bov was causing the passenger side of the bonnet (at the front) to sit up about 2-3". Used my mates custom crossover pipe which has an ARC bov round the corner just before the timing belt cover, it's clashing on the bov flange causing the bonnet to sit about 5-10mm too high on the passenger side at the front.

I had a back to back dyno run with the CEFF1E remap on my RB20, nothing changed down low, the AFR curve was EXACTLY the same. Only thing that happened was I gained 5hp up high.. tuner said it was probably due to an extra degree or so of timing up high. The only benefit of my getting that remap was that it didn't have R&R, so I was able to run my RB30 on it for a while and it saved me about $200 off the proper tune as I already had an ecu with a cradle soldered in. My advice, ring Hyperdrive and get a real tune/remap

What is the actual purpose of this thread? to justify the fact that you're a tightass and only want to pay 9k for a car?

I had a feeling it would screw the geometry

^^ That's what my tuner suggested.. I didn't the sound of it.. have you done this before with no ill effects?

Any more thought as to whether it does sit the engine lower? GunMetaL seems to be the only one with first hand experience..

w00t!

Any idea how much lower?

Saw mention of someone maybe using a Cefiro crossmember to lower the engine on an S13.. Is this true? Would a Cefiro crossmember bolt up on an R32? If it is true, what is the measured difference?

That is why I went RB30.. soon to have a GT35R strapped on