bubba

Have heard of the GTR box having the transfer case removed and fitted into RWD cars behind RB26's. I don't understand what you want to do? AFAIK they are the same gearsets, so if you have a shagged 25 box and a good 26 box, could you not swap the gearsets over?

^^ That's what I thought Dave, thanks for confirming

Since I picked my car up from the suspension place, my clutch pedal has been dodgy.. randomly loses half the travel. Normally, the friction point isn't on the floor and there's a decent amount of travel. When it plays up the pedal physically moves closer to the floor and the friction point is practically on the floor (disengages at the furthest point I can push it). Any ideas? I had it suggested to me that it could be the master cylinder dying..

I noticed a huge difference in the predictibility of the car. Any input (throttle, brake, steering) also feels a lot more direct. Nowhere near as sketchy when sideways at speed

Get to a track or skidpan ASAP and figure out wtf you are doing! I haven't spun out since I was a P plater driving a manual v8 HZ Premier.. and I'm not shy with my right foot either!!

Gain is used to adjust the boost curve if it is creeping or tailing off. You should fiddle with this first to get it to hold a constant boost, then increase the SET value to achieve the boost required. (For instance I was running 25% SET and 11% GAIN to achieve a reasonably solid 12psi). These %'s are dependant on the base boost determined by the actuator, the higher the actuator pressure, the easier it will be to tune the ebc and it will be easier on the actuator and ebc solenoid as neither has to work as hard. The SET GAIN value is when it opens the waste gate and is set in PSI or kPA depending on which unit you have the controller set to use. Start low with this one, and increase it till it starts to cause spikes then back it off slightly. Essentially what this setting is doing is keeping the wastegate SHUT until a specified pressure, as opposed to the gate slowly opening as pressure builds. I had mine set to 8.5psi on low boost (12psi setting) and 9psi on the high settings (14psi). Hadn't gotten around to fine tuning it anymore. Basically it makes for faster spooling This was all on my RB20, haven't had the boost controller on with the RB30 but once I get it back from the tuners this afternoon I may have to fine tune the controller again - was having big problems holding boost with the RB25 actuator (6psi instantly and creeping to 12psi by 6000rpm), they put my RB20 actuator on so hopefully it holds boost a little better.

^^ That's not what the clutch guy that built my last clutch said. If what you're saying is the case, will that mean I need a new starter motor when I upgrade to a 25 box?

Exedy (I think?) 4 puck sprung brass button clutch with a real heavy pressure plate. Handles the immense abuse I like to dish out Came out of my mates commodore, handled everything he threw at it until he got on the strip with slicks and 460rwhp.

Pfft, I used the RB20 starter on my RB30, no problems As for the 25DE cams, they're just NA cams, I can feel them do their stuff at 4000rpm. I would say the RB20/25 cams are optimised for the extra breathing across most of the rev range due to the early spool of factory turbos. The powerband of the NA cams should suit the GT30 I eventually get, but for now, with no lag and full boost so early, it gives you an extra little kick halfway thru the rev range.

No VCT and practically identical to an RB20 head but with larger ports. This particular head flowed enough to make 460rwhp on the last RB30. As for the intake manifold, the reason I got this head is my mate wanted to get a Greddy plenum but they only bolt to DET heads AFAIK. I used the 25DE intake manifold as opposed to the 20 item as the ports matched better. If you have a search for the ecu remap thread there are some attachments containing pinouts for the different RB engines which will probably be of some help

Dodgy afm plug maybe?

Exhaust manifold will be fine, but I don't think the inlet manifold will be. I think the CAS's are the same but fuel rail/injectors are not. That being said, if you manage to get the inlet manifold to fit you could use the RB20 rail/injectors aslong as you're using the RB20 ecu. As for other sensors etc, I've got no idea. Sorry I can't be much help, I recently did an RB30 swap into my R32 but we used a 25DE head out of an R32 so everything was pretty much a direct swap off the RB20.

Not sure about 34's but I was informed that 33 diffs are not the same as 32's.. basically I have a Nismo 2way sitting at home and was chasing 4.1 gears to go in at the same time but was told that the crown wheel bolt pattern is different on 33's. Good luck!

Man and I thought my area was dodgy.. lived here for 6 years and never had anything like that happen. Bad luck mate, hope the cops catch the little shits! Keep a bat on hand though, they sometimes like to come back

Oh yeah, forgot about the Consolidated Workshop thread

My mate at Ultratune Kingsway services a few skylines even though he hates it

I guess it would depend what turbo you are using and where.. I used everything off my RB20, some things were a little stretch due to the head being further away but it all hooked up

Not probably, DEFINATELY need a tune. The thing with a z32 afm is that they have a different resolution to your standard one and as such, are not plug and play.

z32 is the way to go, I just got mine brand new for $295 from justjap plus $45 I think for the Tomei plug. You do need aftermarket management to run it though.

Get a 32 then ditch the 2L for an RB30DET

Don't start with the gunlaws correlations, as an avid competitive paintballer, I experience the fallout from the Port Arthur incident a fair bit Signed the petition, but not happy to see all the bogus names put up there.. I suppose that's what you get with an online petition, but it will seriously defeat the purpose of it to post bullshit like that.

Even the RB25 turbo on my RB30 is maxing the airflow meter just below 6000rpm.. I would guess that a hiflow on an RB25 is going to be maxing aswell.. if the ECU can't measure anymore air it can't throw in anymore fuel.. hence leaning out and pinging.. The stock ECU can only handle so much, if you start to go outside what it can measure/account for, then you need aftermarket management and bigger afm/injectors etc.

^^ Love it!

I think there's a bit more room in a 33 engine bay.. zertek also has a 4wd sump attached

Might be maxing your airflow meter?