bubba

So you want some R.I.C.E.? (Race Inspired Cosmetic Enhancements)

Just putting an aftermarket muffler on your stock exhaust has absolutely no benefit whatsoever, other than making your car sound like a sustained wet fart. A full exhaust will actually give you performance gains as well as making it sound good.

R.I.C.E. Why bother? just get Kermit to make you a nice new full system

+11ty

My R32 RB20DET actuator certainly doesn't give me 12psi on the car.

I had a turbotech T on my 32 years ago, does alright for squeezing some more boost into a stock setup. I also have a ProfecBII in both my cars, can't fault it

I'm heading down to the south coast for easter.. road trip in teh skidwagoon! I do believe that looks like an eye

Marko, fuel pressure isn't rpm dependant, it boost dependant. Our systems are 3bar systems, if you're then running 2bar of boost then the fuel pressure will be 5bar at full boost

Cheap? Turbotech boost T.

I must admit I have an EBC that I spent a fair bit of time dialing in (could never get rid of that tiny spike though ), but I'm pretty sure it wasn't making 1000rpm of difference in spool time. I feel there is some other issue with his setup..

Wut? I've been running my 044 like that for years now, so has my mate and that single, in-tank 044 is supporting well over 500awhp. IMO, the 044 in-tank with a stock-type sock filter setup is way better than the 040 with integral pickup, and the 044 flows more.

My engine is out for other reasons. I removed the stock manifold and mocked up the new one before the engine came out but I hadn't fitted the GTR cooler/plumbing at that point so couldn't finalise the t/b piping.

Look under the back of your car at the rear hubs, you should be able to easily see where the shocks bolt to the hub and discern whether it is an eye or a fork.

If it's auto then DEFINITELY go NIStune, no questions. The reason my Haltech is wired in as a piggyback is that our tiptronic auto boxes do not have a separate Transmission Control Module like earlier autos, it is part of the ECU (same as R34 GTT's), so the stock ECU has to stay there otherwise you will be stuck in 3rd gear (limp mode). Edit: is yours RWD?? not sure what the go there is, have a look on your ECU for the number and either email Matt at NIStune or post up in the big NIStune thread in the Forced Induction area, he will be able to tell you if your ECU is supported. I don't see why it wouldn't be because R34GTT and C34 s2 RS4S and RS4V are supported.

That boost seems pretty lazy... this was my old RB20 with an RB25 turbo, untuned. The red line was when I tried 14psi but too much ping ping without a tune.

Depends what sort of forward facing plenum you go with, a GReddy (or copy) item will need the battery removed. With my setup of standard GTR cooler/piping and my custom plenum, my battery didn't need to move but it's going to be a couple of tight bends to get the pipework to meet up with the Q45 t/b on the front.. will have a better idea once the engine is back in but probably going to have to weld a bend straight to the t/b.

Can't find the photos but I've got a GTR plenum chamber with a Q45 flange on the front, welded to stock RB20 runners.

Why would that help with a speed reading?

There ya go

WRGMG is the Victoria Ave/Terrace Rd carpark. The other week, the only parking spot left was under some stupid tree that grows stupid berries that some stupid birds eat and then shit all over your f**king car. Got to my car after work to find the bonnet, windscreen and roof covered in a solid 15mm layer of semi-digested berry bird shit. Yesterday, had to drive in, parked in that carpark but NOT under one of those stupid trees only to come back to my car after work to find it COVERED in salt spray

Send 'urtwhistle' a message, he has put an 25/30 in his 34 4-door and he is also in Perth

Even if you are going to make more power than the standard AFM can handle, no dramas, I'm running a Z32 afm which is good for 500hp. Is your car auto or manual?

Bin it and go NIStune, absolutely THE best option for our cars (especially if yours is auto like mine). Currently, I have a Haltech e11v2 wired in as a piggyback. Nice ECU, lots of wonderful features, but completely overkill for our application. Fitted my NIStune board last week, now as soon as I can get in for a tune, the Haltech is coming out! P.S. anyone wanna buy an e11v2 w/ 3-bar map sensor?

Ahh ok then, hopefully Matt and Pete can sort you out. Send me a PM in a few hours to remind me to check

RD28?