bubba

MAKE IT HAPPEN NAO ROWAN

1x 044 mounted in tank is good for well over 500rwhp (my mate has one in his ~580awhp GTS4) I paid ~$215 on eBay for my 044 a few years ago then paid a local performance shop ~$200 to fit it, that included them sourcing all the fittings, stock-type sock filter setup and rewiring. Yes, it does get a little bit noisy when the fuel gets hot (low tank and city driving). Edit: in response to the question directly above, you basically wire a constant voltage from the battery to a relay, to the fuel pump, then trip the relay with an ignition signal. If you just wire straight from the battery to fuel pump it will run all the time even with the car off.. also need a nice fat earth cable (I believe the variable voltage is on the negative side anyway).

Not sure I can fulfull the last requirement

muahahahahah MY SECRET WEAPON BISHES

Nice work chuck. Finally got up to see my mate on Friday and got the NIStune board installed in my ECU, took all of about 20 mins Made a few minor changes to make living with the Haltech a bit easier until I find time to remove it and repair the butchered loom Set up the Z32 afm, have been running it since the stocker died but because the Haltech runs a map sensor it wasn't too much of an issue.. I thought.. turns out it was screwing with the TP so VCT was needing a lot more load to flick on, feels SO much better punting around the streets with it working properly! Also set the VCT enable temp to 50deg (as stock ECU is reading the temp ~20-25deg low) until I pull the Haltech out, then I'll chuck a stock water temp sender back in. I can't believe what was supposed to be a respected workshop set it all up like this

If you don't want a license for the software, you can get just the board for about $260. Any boost controller will be fine as it will be completely separate to the ECU (not like AVC-R for example, which hooks up to the PowerFC). As said above, with your mods, once tuned, probably looking at 200awkw-ish. I finally got around to putting the NIStune board in my ECU on Friday (currently have a Haltech piggybacked in there) and even though I haven't tuned the NIStune yet, just being able to change the few things I did has made living with the Haltech a lot easier. Soon as I find some time the Haltech is coming out! Don't get me wrong, the Haltech is a wonderful ECU with lots of fancy features but, for a daily driver (and especially because mine is auto) it is completely wasted. NIStune is by far the best option for a street car.

Let me know if I have to prove it and I'll bring some spare tyres

Wow.. just realised I replied to a post from 2006

If I put it in 2WD will I pass for FR?

I can do a standstill with ABS enabled but if i ease off the brake to start moving it doesn't like it.. pedal gets really hard and won't let you slow the car up again until the rears stop spinning. I have a switch and a method for 2WD (it's pretty much 33gtr setup) and it doesn't disable ABS, if I wanted to hook a switch for this I just need to tap into the ABS fuse yes?

Finally got up to see my mate and get the NIStune board installed in my ECU, took all of about 20 mins Made a few minor changes to make living with the Haltech a bit easier until I find time to remove it and repair the butchered loom Set up the Z32 afm, have been running it since the stocker died but because the Haltech runs a map sensor it wasn't too much of an issue.. I thought.. turns out it was screwing with the TP so VCT was needing a lot more load to flick on, feels SO much better punting around the streets with it working properly! Also set the VCT enable temp to 50deg (as stock ECU is reading the temp ~20-25deg low) until I pull the Haltech out, then I'll chuck a stock water temp sender back in. I can't believe what was supposed to be a respected workshop set it all up like this

This is pretty much what I did for my 32 but onto RB20 runners, with Q45 t/b on the front there's not a lot of room to get the bends onto the new GTR pipework but I'll worry about that after the engine is back in.

Normal street driving on belter hot days, the highest I've seen in either car was 95deg, nothing to worry about. The 32, on a 40+ day and a good 2 min skid, the highest I've seen is 105deg which was fkn hot but still didn't throw any coolant. Coolant, under pressure, isn't going to boil until about 110deg. If you're seeing about 100deg or higher on the street or highway, then you've got issues that need addressed. From my experience, RB's like to operate at about 80deg (RB20/25non-neo/26), they run a 76.5deg thermostat. The neos seem to want to run a bit hotter (probably due to emissions reasons) and they run an 82deg thermostat. Edit: I also had way better results from a stock GTR radiator than the 50mm chinese alloy thing I used to have.

Injectors on 3 and 5 stuck open? Does it do it all the time? i.e. it's not heat related?

Could at least be an NA 25/30

No it shouldn't cut cylinders, have you checked the injecting side of things? Engines need 3 things to run, air - fuel - spark (unless it's diesel )..

That's what I did the last time I took a couple of Stags out. Then I missed a turn that wasn't in my visualisation of the area and ended up at a dead end in god knows where, great place to stop for a sesh tho

Yeah it's called M'mmmates place or something. I haven't used them (as I have access to a mates workshop) but by all accounts that I have heard, it's quite a nice setup, reasonably priced, all tools provided at each workstation with specialist tools available behind the counter. The guys are very helpful and they also have things like an engine building clean room, spray booth etc.

My guess is: the heater hose that runs between the firewall and the engine. Mine blew on the dyno once.. not pretty

Make sure you've got a welder and some flat bar handy.

Nah f**k that, I'll just wing it on the night

I prefer Datascan over ECUTalk. I have NIStune on the carpc as well but it's too full on for day-to-day monitoring/diagnostics. Not sure about windows7 though.. carpc is still running XP

Look on their website.. it has prices.. www.plmsdevelopments.com Personally I would also go with the plmsdevelopments cable, and also go with Nissan Datascan. I tried ECUTalk back in the day and wasn't very happy with it. Nowadays I run a carpc with the consult cable permanently hooked up, and Nissan Datascan for day-to-day monitoring and diagnostics. Also have NIStune on there but that's just for fiddling, too full on for the day-to-day stuff.

Nice.. I shall have to investigate these poppers you speak of.