bubba

Does the sandwich plate have an oring between itself and the block? I suppose I should ask where exactly the oil is pissing out from..

Loose clamp on cooler piping?

That's him

He's also on the forums but I can't remember his username. Good quality shit but I think they have a price to suit

Yeah we have a tuners license and I have a mate that builds ECU's and wiring looms for a living, he solders the boards in for a nominal fee Like I said above, if a bunch of you want a board I will organise a groupbuy and should be able to get the price down a little depending on volume. Whoever is interested, shoot me a PM.

If you want a cheapish forward facing plenum for an RB20 then just do what I did, cut an RB20 lower manifold up and weld a GTR plenum chamber to the runners. It doesn't line up perfectly but the RB20 runners are bigger than the RB26 runners so after some heating/bending of the 1st and last runners on the RB20 side, a happy medium was found between the two sides.

No. Dyno sheets hey? only a little turbo but this is WHY everyone with an RB20 should build an RB30

Buzzing with the ignition off is a bit wierd..

You probably need to do something similar to what those of us that have put 33 boxes in 32gtst's had to do.. I used 5mm flatbar to welded to the crossmember to relocate the holes ~50mm

With the earlier autos like yours (R32/33 era), the Transmission Control Module is a separate unit. In the 34 era autos (series 2 stags, tiptronic), the TCM is an extra board inside the ECU which is why we have such limited aftermarket ECU options (my Haltech is currently piggybacked onto the stock ECU). Not too knowledgable about the old autos and it would need some looking into but I would imagine the TCM would just need a a couple of inputs and it might have an output back to the ECU for when it wants to change (which after you shift kit the auto is kinda pointless anyway). The window switch is to control VCT as RB20's never had it. You basically need to search for people who have NIStuned their auto R33's I guess. Also, Matt from NIStune is very helpful and regularly checks the NIStune thread in the Forced Induction area.

Definitely, mine went in on Friday and Chuckies' is going in tonight If you don't want the software, boards are only ~$260 for the series 2 so WAY cheaper than a full standalone (anyone know any mugs that want to buy a Haltech?). Software licenses are $200 for a single seat last time I looked. Series 1 you just need a NIStuned RB20 ECU and an rpm window switch, both of which I think I just saw in the For Sale area I can get boards and if a bunch of you want them around the same time I can probably organise a groupbuy

horrace, I may be interested in Motorvation, it's usually on my birthday weekend so some birthday skidz could be a goer Mike, why are your fronts wider than your rears?

8th or 15th for me

Stock Neo thermostats are 82deg Ditto, as I've said in other threads, I had a cheapo china radiator and while it was nice and thick, it used to heatsoak horribly, tossed it in favour of a GTR radiator and had no more dramas.

Yeah, forgot about DD

Are R31's one or two piece shafts?

Well, aside from the fact that local councils are NOT recognised by the constitution and are operating as illegal entities, they have no right to take your property. They also have no right to impose a fine on you. Local councils are getting away with far too much, look up a guy by the name of Wayne Glew, he gives his mobile number and email address in his interviews on youtube. Send him the story and ask his advice, he is an expert on the constitution and is on a bit of a crusade agaisnt governments and local councils shafting us.

Ever noticed the ad banner that changes at the top of the page? there is one that says ring Steve at Northside Nissan

Please don't make it on the Easter weekend (24th is Easter Sunday)! I'll be going on an epic road trip down south and I reckon most people will be going away for Easter.

Just like I can on my carpc

So tidy!

Listen to this guy

Wow.. cool yet somehow uncool at the same time enjoy the ride!

AFAIK the only difference between ABS and non-ABS skyline diffs is the ABS halfshaft flanges have the ABS teeth on them. If both diffs are VLSD units the halfshafts flanges should swap straight over.

Your dyno graphs on the previous page.. the run where you dropped the cat.. looks like it was going on to make a fair bit more power than the runs with the cat still attached...........