bubba

Looking forward to hearing the rumble of a bunch of stags rolling in to the carpark! I will be flat out but will try come say hello, the field is right next to the bar so you can see what it's all about

+11ty

Little bit dirty but here's one from before the engine came out.

Not necessarily, he won't max either the stock injectors or afm with the stock turbo so not much point splashing coin when it isn't needed.

Sorry dude, just realised you said charge and not change IIRC it was just over $200.

Just to clarify something, "headers" aren't really an upgrade for turbo cars as it's not as simple as bolting on a set of extractors and off you go. The standard exhaust manifold is good for up around 300rwkw and generally an aftermarket exhaust manifold is used for a big turbo with an external wastegate. Your first port of call should be a decent fuel pump and a full, turbo-back exhaust, boost tee (or electronic boost controller) then NIStune and a tune. That should net you close to 200rwkw and you can get used to driving it with some more power. By that stage you'll be needing to get the minor shift kit in to the auto and then you can look for a turbo upgrade. I can take you for a ride in the wagon if you want, for all intents and purposes the engine is a 34GTT setup, it's just a bit heavier and is 4WD when I want it to be

Kaido was talking about a HKS kit. 350hp is 260kw. To get there you would need z32 afm, bigger injectors, fuel pump, turbo and NIStune. Oh and a full 3" exhaust.

I heard you weren't the only one told to go home

Pretty sure you can buy adapter kits which are just basically a bunch of sleeves, or make some. The other option if you want 4.1 ratio is get a 32 GTR diff, will have to upgrade axles and hubs too but then you get the benefit of a 2-way mechanical centre.

Wonder what 3.5:1 would be like.. should be plenty of torque to use them but wow.. top end would be phenominal! lol

Cost me less than $200 and they basically removed the accumulator pistons on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts (there is a chamber with a sprung piston to dampen oil flow) and replaced with 50mm welsh plugs.. ergo no dampening! And nope, not me Fuel pump, I'm a fan of Bosch units. Mount an 044 intank FTW. Injectors, stockers will see you to about 230rwkw. If you need bigger, look in the Group Buy area for the Siemens Deka injectors. Unfortunately with Neo engines, we are very limited with injector upgrades Z32 AFM, needed as the stocker will max out pretty early. ECU, NIStune should be able to get a board fitted and tuned for well under $800. Don't waste your time with anything else, simply not worth it. Turbo, I'm running a massive highflow of unknown specs (came with the car), Hypergear do a bolt-on highflow good for ~260rwkw and only costs about $1000. Bolts up to EVERYTHING just like standard. Just get a NIStune. My wagon is running a Haltech e11v2, wonderful ECU.. if the wagon was a race car.. terrible for an auto street car.

Not sure about 34's, but 32's drop voltage at idle so they rewired for a constant 12v. The cradle needs a little massaging to fit and they mounted it nice and low. Went from surging when chucking 'nuts with under 1/2 tank, to being able to chuck 'nuts with the needle almost on empty. My mate has the same setup in his GTS4 and that single 044 in tank is supporting ~540awhp. I also prefer the 044 with sock filter setup as opposed to the 040 with integral pickup.

My picks of places would be: Capri - little Italian restaurant in Freo.. THE BEST italian food from a restaurant (comes close to my irish-turned-italian mrs' cooking ) and quire reasonable prices. Chu Sing Chinese Restaurant in Stirling - along with the Capri, been going there since I was a little kid, the benchmark I hold all other chinese restaurants to. +1 Alfreds Kitchen Most Hogs Breaths do a good steak Hippos Creek (although their 1kg steak broke me ) Late night/early morning (24/7) Bacon/Egg/Cheese roll, I usually hit up the Roadhaven BP truckstop in Kewdale. The RE Store is the bestest continental deli eva. When I had a parking spot in the building I used to drive to the Leederville store for lunch quite often.

Which one is the girls car?

Definitely buy a half cut if you don't already have a 25 box in there. People over here want $1500ish for the gearbox alone. I then had a custom 2-piece shaft made up (to handle huge torque), that along with a new slave cylinder and some miscellaneous stuff, brought the gearbox conversion to around $2500 and that's with me doing all the labour.

PM Mr.Eps, he does it and is mobile

Torque, power is just a function of torque and revs (and a constant). Physically, the RB25 is SHITLOADS bigger than the RB20 box. If you have a look down the transmission tunnel and the gearbox barely fits.. it's probably an RB25 box. Couple of other things like how the slave cylinder bolts on and the speedo sender is one the bottom of the output shaft on one box, and on the top on the other.. can't remember which way round it is though.. If you need me to, send me a PM and I'll have a look under the car when I get home

Definitely not insurmountable issues. I did my whole 30 conversion in a weekend, drive in, drive out. Power steering pump bracket is easily fixed with a grinder, as with the exhaust manifold (or you can grind the block). Everything else bolted back up fine with a bit of massaging. I used an R32 RB25DE head which is more straight forward than the R33 RB25DET head. The only bit of turbo piping (stock 25 turbo) that was a bitch was the oil drain.

Private sale in the quokka. Guy had spent 12k or something stupid getting a workshop to source and fit Tein coilovers, full exhaust, fmic, bigass highflow turbo, splitfires and a Haltech. He then got all disillusioned because at the end of the day, it's not a skyline I picked it up for 14k with 120,000km on the clock. Had it about 2 years now, up to 165,000km and still going strong, have upgraded the brakes and put a mild shift kit in. On the cards are bigger injectors and NIStune once I remove the Haltech and fix the bodgy wiring job Best all-rounder ever. It doesn't handle and stop like my 32 but it still does everything pretty damn well for a 1.7t wagon. Hauls ass, carries heaps of shit and gets nearly 600km/tank on country runs. Love it so much that now that times are tough, I'm selling the 32 and not the wagon

Depends how you drive but likely not. I killed a couple of RB20 boxes with only 183rwkw, first one behind the RB20, second behind the RB30 (the second one died real quick.. I don't think it liked so many 2nd gear clutch drops )

That's a huge pressure drop across the cooler at not very high boost levels.. sure someone didn't leave a rag in there?

That's why I went to 3.9:1 diff gears, the small turbo was only letting me rev to ~5500-5800rpm and with the stock gears (4.3) I was slower than an RB20 32GTSt because I was changing gears so often. Even with the 3.9:1 gears, there was so much torque you could roll on in 5th from 80kmh and still pull like a freight train.

Depends what you're using them for. I had an ebay ally radiator and it used to heatsoak something horrid after half an hour on the hwy and temps would just steadily increase. It also couldn't handle a decent burnout on a 40deg day, would spit coolant everywhere. Turfed it in favour of a stock 32GTR radiator and the difference was huge. Temps well under control, a good 2.5min burnout on a 40deg day would see no more than 105deg. Also a FYI, temps WILL increase when stationary UNTIL hot enough to engage the clutch on the engine fan. If it gets TOO hot, the A/C fan will kick in. Another FYI, you won't notice the needle on your factory temp gauge move until the temps are over 100deg.

Sorry guys, will be busy shooting fools on Sunday. If your drive brings you past the Canningvale Country Club, stop in for a beer and watch us mow some fools down