bubba

You installed a new ignition system (completely different to the factory setup) and now spark is breaking down... I would be inclined to REMOVE it all and go back to a stock setup. My 30DET is running standard RB20 coils with no dramas. The Neo in my Stagea is running Splitfires as standard neo coilpacks are notoriously dodgy, older RB coilpacks (RB20/26) are pretty damn good. If you're having misfire issues with a standard setup then I would also be looking at the wiring harness. I was troubleshooting a serious spark breakdown issue when hot on my 30, went through a couple of sets of coils and ignitors before I figured out that it was the plugs on the harness falling apart that was the cause of the issue.

^^ This ^^ and this. /thread

Put a cat on there as well as the muffler and you have a legal screamer.

We should probably catch up some time

I had no bov for a couple of days (while piping was being fab'd) and it acted pretty well the same as when running the atmo bov (my tune was well on the rich side anyway and you could see big clouds of black smoke heh). It's interesting that the maf voltage was all screwy, unfortunately I didn't have my carpc at the time so no idea what maf voltage was doing.

Manifold > turbo gasket

Good work!

Show of hands for tomorrow night please! Everyone from SAUWA is welcome, I'd rather it not be attended by plebs though.. Will be a reasonably short run with some nice roads, meet point will be either central or slightly east and looking at about 9pm, will update tomorrow

Bracketing up the pod is easy, I just grabbed some scrap ally I had laying around and used the jigsaw to cut two strips, drilled a hole in either end and bent to suit, used existing captive nuts that used to hold the airbox in.

You are dumping air out of the system that has already been metered and had fuel added for, excess fuel in to hot exhaust = flames (especially when you give the throttle another stab and it gets hot gasses rushing up behind it).

Umm no... Running no bov means you get reversion through the airflow meter.. air moving through piping gets to closed throttle body, bouncing back through piping and gets chopped up by the air still exiting the turbo, this is the TU-TU-TU sound that VL boys crave so badly. What happens when this air passes back through the airflow meter is that it gets read again, the afm doesn't know which way the air is moving, just that there is air moving over it. So what happens is, the stock ecu sees more air and throws in more fuel. It is this over fuelling that causes the engine to stall.

decat + atmo bov + plenty of fuel on overrun =

You don't happen to have the standard auto (tiptronic) steering wheel do you?

At the end of the day, you need to go with what your chosen tuner knows best. A tune is only as good as the tuner afterall.. and seeing as there seems to be a lack of tuners where you are, I wouldn't be going for an obscure solution.

You'd be amazed at what some people are capable of.. that includes fitting things that don't fit

RB30 pumps have a sawtooth gear design, later RB's have a gerotor gear design. All RB oil pumps fit all RB blocks

Nah sorry dude, it's going on my engine very soon

I'll have a rummage, I think there's a couple of old maps stashed in the car.

lol, more likely to snap the engine than an axle with non-turbo powah!

Mine is a lolvo.

If it's 3x2 bolt then an S13 diff should work fine.

Dunno about max dB but my standard Stagea horn/s are a shitload louder than my Skyline. I had triple airhorns on an old Barina back in the day, good times.

Got any old hills maps chuck? If so, send to me