bubba

At one stage I had a dicky earth clamp on the battery, some bumps would move it around, there would be a big lurch and the auto would drop in to limp mode temporarily. So yes, dodgy earth could be the culprit. What error code is it throwing up?

Pretty well every report I've seen of RB26 cams in RB20 they didn't actually run too well, if at all. I thought about it, but it's a fair bit of effort to run like a bag of shit. The profiles of the lobes are completely different due to the fact that RB26 is solid lifter and RB20 is hydraulic, the ramp rates for the opening/closing of the valves is vastly different.

The OP suggestion will work in theory. Also, I believe it was urtwhistle, modified his TC butterfly (shaved it down so that when it closed, it wouldn't fully close the opening) to allow a bit more power through when it kicked in, allows him to chirp 2nd pretty well now with TC enabled, instead of completely dying in the ass.

256deg isn't far off factory duration, it's the extra LIFT that gave you more power at less boost which is the point I was trying to make above. My other point about regrinds, is you give the guys your engine specs, turbo specs and intended use, they will then CUSTOM SPEC you a cam profile to suit YOUR setup.

What time roughly? I haven't played online yet

Gas, grass or ass; nobody rides for free. P.S. I'm keen.

You won't lose 20% power.. it should actually flow slightly better up top so there might be an increase in peak power. Will probably LOSE at least 20% torque down low though.

+11ty

Very nice dude! I'm booked in for a new, bigger radiator in the morning.. not quite as exciting as your adventures

Both items sold.

Was a straight bolt in for my 32, I would imagine it's going to be pretty well the same for 34GTT/GTR.. as long as your is manual it *should* drop straight in

$85 is for the cable I think a license for Datascan is about $40, whereas ECUTalk is free (not a fan of it). With Datascan you can make some minor changes for that session (resets when you turn the car off) for diagnostics purposes. I use it to force my water temp to 70deg so that my VCT works (long story).

You would prefer a generic solution instead of an application specific solution?

Pretty sure the eboost2 has an auxillary channel you can use as an RPM window switch. And yeah, it would just be a touch up tune, it's not like you're starting from scratch again.

Wow that sounds like a major fk around, could have just got a base image flashed back on to the NIStune board and started again from there. Mattw_83: wouldn't hurt to chuck it on the dyno and make sure it's all fine, some of the timing could probably be adjusted to make better use of the advanced intake cam. I don't know whether mine was tuned for it or not but it handles it fine (NOT ADVISING YOU TO DO THE SAME), I'm building a 3L bottom end for mine so wasn't really fussed if it melted anything.. was a bit tentative about it to begin with but after a few runs with no adverse effects I thought bugger it, she's still going strong heh Does make a HUGE difference to how the car drives around town though.

Well the Neo's do run hotter than the earlier RB's (82deg thermostat as opposed to the 76.5deg on my 32) so for the warning light to come on at 90deg it could be calibrated a bit too low (most aftermarket gauges with warning lamps, the warning level should be able to be adjusted). By all means, get your mechanic to test the cooling system, radiator could have some crap in it that is moving about. The radiators in our cars (I'm assuming the 34GTT has the same thickness radiator as my Stagea and Skyline standard) are woefully thin for our climate. GTR radiators are almost twice as thick and was what I upgraded to in my 32, I had an ebay spec alloy radiator but wasn't happy with the operating temps (would hold at about 80deg for a while until it heatsoaked, then it would rocket up to 95ish very quickly) so ditched it in favour of the GTR radiator.

www.plmsdevelopments.com.au

+11ty Best thing I did to my 32gtst was drop a 3L in

Huge difference to response but this isn't the place to talk about it P.S. I did post it up in the brakes thread too, have previously done braided lines on my 32 but did a bunch of other stuff at the same time so I wasn't able to pinpoint the exact effect of the braided lines. There seemed to have been a slight bit of doughiness (could call it brake lag maybe?) when applying pressure to the pedal to when that pressure translated to the brakes biting. Now it's instant, has installed a lot more confidence, especially at high speed.

Braided brake lines was the last thing I did, but if you had a good sift through all the bullshit conversations, you might have known that.

RB20 and RB26 coilpacks are the same, so are series 1 RB25.

36deg ambient temp and stuck in traffic.. 92deg water temp doesn't seem that bad, if it's going over 100deg on the street I would be getting worried. Even with big burnouts on a 40deg in my skyline I've never seen over 105deg (and even that didn't throw any coolant out, with the pressure and additives, boiling point is about 110deg).

/thread means end thread Have a look through the Audio/Alarm section or whatever it's called, a few of us posted up our carpc setups. Basically it's a VoomPCII box from mini-box.com, 7" in dash screen and a consult cable permanently plugged in, Datascan loads on startup so I always have extra gauges and diagnostics.

It's aimed at everyone who waffles on for pages. This thread is about WHAT YOU HAVE DONE to your Stagea. Not conversations, even related to cars and potentially doing things to them.

I use Datascan on my CarPC. /thread