bubba

Hey Rowan, talk to me about headlight restoration!

Nope, definitely a factory stamped hole, even had the bolt holes in exactly the correct location to bolt the 32R bulkhead fittings up to. I fitted a complete 32GTR setup, fro guard to guard, with only needing to drill one hole (for the BOV vacuum hose fitting to fit through). If it matters, mine is a 1990..

I concur that it is a highly inconsistent and subjective area, if you don't get any luck from one place, more often than not you will find luck at another place. Hell, I've even heard rumours of a guy in GinGin who is pretty lax! Also, I think there is a user on here (BigJim? drives a Stagea) that said he works at Rocko licensing.

Saturday morning sounds good, why don't you organise all the people on each day to gather in one spot so you're not traipsing over the countryside! (I would offer my place but unless I pushed my half-fallen-over fence all the way over, we wouldn't fit).

I don't know about factory balancers, but plenty of us in Perth with 3L's are running RB26 ATI units. I thought it was more like the head, use whatever suits your ancillaries.

Might as well get a long weight while you're there.

I had a good experience at Midland, was lucky enough to get an inspector that loves Skylines. He thanked me profusely when handing me the keys back

Fortunately, 32GTSt's have the hole there from factory (the only hole I had to drill to fit a full GTR cooler/piping setup was for a vacuum hose).

They shouldn't. Pod filter needs to be bracketed down in two places. If they are assholes they will make you get permits for the fmic and filter. My 32gtst is licensed with the 3L, adjustable suspension, front mount etc. The only thing I didn't have in when I took it over the pits was the 2-way diff, that would have been knocked back. Basic rule of thumb is make sure nothing is leaking, all the safety stuff works (belts, lights etc), and that any modifications don't look dodgy.

You could take the head off with the engine still in the car.. But you have an engine crane obviously.. why try lift the car up? just take the bonnet off and pull the engine out the normal way.

+11ty to all the braking comments above. As for 4WD>2WD, car has to be started, it will work if you just turn the key to ON but resets when you start the engine so you have to pump the brake pedal again. If successful the 4WD light should come on and start flashing. As Jetwreck said above, it's not going to light up standing on it from stationary (hopefully it will when I get my 3L bottom end in ) but from about 4000rpm with VCT engaged it lights up, 5000rpm without VCT. Sit it on the brake, wheels start turning at about 2500rpm, slowly climbs to 3000rpm where it starts to build some boost, about 3500rpm it's making significant boost and skyrockets to the limiter.. bounce limiter once or twice and click 2nd, release brake, super fun happy strips time! NOTE: this is from C34 experience, but seeing as how Nissan like to not recreate the wheel so to speak, I'd be interested to see if it is the same for M35 and would be surprised if it's not

What was that? Dale is cooking a bbq for us?

If it makes it easier I can meet up at Dales or something.

In C34's a solid light (should start flashing after you've pushed the brake pedal 5 times) coming on when you start moving is an error.. be careful as if you've unplugged the plug and have a solid 4WD light (at least in C34's) you're in full 50/50.

Way too hard, the ATESSA system is rather complex with wiring and pumps and sensors etc. Cheaper and easier to buy a GTS4.

OK here's a little anecdote that might help shed a little light.. When I was playing around with NIStune'd ECU's in my car I was doing a lot of swapping of ECU's. If I just pulled the ECU out without bleeding any residual current in the system (i.e. not pushing the brake pedal after disconnecting the battery), it would throw up HEAPS of A/T errors including a bevy of solenoids and other stuff but nothing was actually broken. It was just the control module flipping out because I didn't discharge the residual current in the system. The point I'm trying to make is that it *could* be an intermittent earthing or wiring problem somewhere and it sounds like the problem was there before the rebuild and the box probably didn't need new solenoids etc. Try reset the ECU, if that doesn't work then the auto-sparky needs to be present when the problem is replicated. If it works for a while and randomly drops in to limp mode I highly doubt the TCM (inside the ECU) is the culprit, sounds more like a wiring/connector issue.

Good work! Mine didn't run that rich. It did on the first drive home because I snapped the RB20 water temp sender and had to use the RB25 item.. resistance was different so the ECU was stuck in coldstart

Do it. Going from a 2L to a 3L there is a HUGE difference in drivability. It's really not very hard and if you are sensible with the build and tuning, it should live a long, healthy life. If you prep the bottom end before hand, then the whole conversion can be done in a weekend (I drove in on a Friday afternoon, had a concert Saturday night and then drove it home about 1am Monday morning).

Indeed, good sir! Can't wait till Easter, looking forward to a good 1500km road trip in teh Wagoon of Terror!

The auto control unit is part of the ECU, not a separate unit like earlier models. And if it's throwing the same error before and after the rebuild, that makes me think that whatever they did DIDN'T fix the issue.. I hope you're not paying for them to learn..

Put me down (on the list)

Can you see what happens if you unplug that plug, start the car and then push the brake pedal 5 times? (if Nissan were nice, it should go in to 2WD mode!)

Excellent! 6pm (local) is very acceptable!

Works fine, I drove mine around for a few months untuned, it just maxes the afm rather quickly so you don't give it heaps of shit or rev it out. The load of the engine is calculated from the airflow, more flow, more load, different cells.

Probably stuck in limp mode (not sure what gear that is in your box).. try resetting the ECU, even disconnect the battery and pump brake pedal a few times before reconnecting.