bubba

20 degrees of advance on the intake cam makes a huge difference to the midrange.. if you were in Perth I could show you just how much of a difference, VERY noticable.

If you're not interested in sledging bullshit, STOP f**kING CHATTING IN THIS THREAD. Everyday there is another few pages of bullshit, interspersed with the odd comment of having done something on your cars. Use the f**king chat thread.

www.ple.com.au www.austin.net.au www.msy.com.au www.mcgtech.com.au www.netplus.com.au

I doubt anyone is going to want to weld those up.. when I was looking at getting some sort of bulge in my bonnet, no-one even wanted to go near it with a cutting wheel for fear of it warping the whole bonnet.

Thanks Matt, I was pretty sure that was the case

If you want response on a 3L with that turbo, I wouldn't be going longer duration cams, if you can get something with similar duration but more lift, that would be the way to go. Lift = power Duration = when it makes that power There are a couple of places over east (Camtech and Tighe?) that do custom regrinds, might be worth a look.

+11ty The muppets that installed my Haltech changed the water temp sensor to suit, but the factory ECU is still in there controlling VCT/auto/etc. The consequence of changing the water temp sensor is that it has a different resistance to the factory sensor, which causes the stock ECU to read the water temp. about 15-20deg too low (meaning VCT doesn't function until the water temp is up around 95deg, stock ECU needs to see 70deg to enable VCT but normal operating temp as seen by the stock ECU is 60-65deg). What that means is, with my bigass highflow, it is a laggy POS until 4500rpm. It builds boost from about 3000rpm but doesn't really do anything with it until 4500rpm. When I use Datascan to force the stock ECU to see 70deg, it makes a HUGE difference to the midrange, instead of building boost and doing nothing with it, it actually starts to haul ass a lot earlier than normal. It even makes 4th gear (top in my auto) usable instead of having to drop back to 3rd.

Mine picks up the LIDAR units.

Nope... They are all ceramic turbine wheels yes, but the compressor wheel on an RB20 and RB25 series 1 turbo are steel. The compressor wheels on series 2 RB25 and Neo are nylon.

33gtst calipers are pretty much the same as 32gtst but are to suit a 296mm rotor instead of a 280mm, normal 32gtr are the same size as 33gtst. Late 32gtr and 33gtr (non brembos) run a 324mm rotor (what I am running, with brackets to space the 33gtst calipers out). Master cylinder stopper and braided lines make a nice difference too.

Have a good read through the DIY thread, it has part numbers as well. I got 4 shims for about $20 from Nissan, ended up using two 1.49 shims.

R33 GTSt brakes are a good cheap upgrade (calipers & rotors). Personally I would be going to slotted rotors, decent pads, decent fluid, braided brake lines and a master cylinder stopper. That's pretty much my setup on both cars but the 32 runs 33gtr sized (324mm) DBA4000 slotted rotors and Ferodo DS2500 pads and the Stagea runs RDA slotted 350Z rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads. Stock brakes usually work well, once. On the track, after a couple of heavy braking applications, you won't have much braking capacity left..

GReddy do not make an RB20 plenum, the only off the shelf complete replacement (not just the top half like Plasmaman) solutions are ebay jobs such as the KU Engineering plenum. That being said, Plasmaman is probably the best bet as you retain the longer runners.

No probs, just keep an eye out for a lazy stock VLSD. You will need to get the axle flanges with it though as I'm 99% certain (at least it was with my open centre) the splines that go in to the diff are smaller than the VLSD items. The PCD of the bolts should still match the driveshafts though.

I never trust plugs to be gapped very accurately from factory, I usually just get the -11's and gap them down myself.

What? are you talking about the transfer case? Myself and a few others have confirmed the 2WD method works 100%.

Slightly better response wise maybe but shortening the runners on an RB20 isn't a top idea.. they already suffer a lack of torque. Shorter runners mean less low down torque but better cylinder filling at high rpm so, it will be laggy but scream like hell to redline I only did mine because it's a 3L so has an abundance of torque already and I needed the height clearance.

Matt, I think one our WA guys has been given a bum steer.. I know you do board for auto series 2 Stageas and I was fairly certain you do board for manual series 2 Stageas (RS4S) however he received this reply.. Pretty sure he has a 0V801 ECU, can you please confirm? Would have sent you an email but I'm at work

We have proven a stock RB20 plenum and throttlebody are good for 365rwkw and that was on a 3L bottom end.

It's not an engine out job if you have the right tools and small enough hands to get to the bolts that hold the top half of the plenum on. But yes, RB26 plenum to RB20 isn't bolt on, there are adapter plates available for a pretty penny. I made my own out of stock runners and an RB26 plenum chamber but you can also buy some on ebay, I know people using a KU Engineering plenum with success.

Can do some of that on the cheap, 32GTR rear sway bar for instance. Coilovers you should be able to pick up a second hand set of the forums for a reasonable price. For all the bushes, ring Matt @ WASuspension.

With some feeler gauges..

Oh well.

So full length injectors require the 20mm spacers but they Neo injectors in the group buy don't? I'll be in for a set of 60lb'ers for a Neo as soon as someone buys my 6boost manifold!

Correct, unless you follow the procedure outlined in the workshop manual, which I have posted up a few times. I have put a switch in my centre console for 2WD and I drive around every day in 2WD (have pretty much done so since a couple of weeks before Powercruise last year) with no dramas whatsoever, my 4WD still works perfectly too.