bubba

Yeah dude I was amazed!

Any panel damage?

Yes, RB20 & RB26 is the same (yellow), R33 RB25 is brown and Neo seems to be blue. I've used an RB25 sensor with an RB20 ECU and it wasn't happy.

Good call!

Idler - 56TB2801B01 Tensioner - 60TB0683 There are a few more numbers after those but they shouldn't need them.

Hyperdrive Allstar Garage

ABS sensors are on the diff, they count the teeth on the sprocket type ring around where the axle flange goes into the diff.

Slotted rotors are always a good idea. I'm running 350Z RDA slotted rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads along with a master cylinder stopper and braided front lines The RDA/EBC numbers are in the Stagea Brakes thread in the Stagea area but it's hard to sift through the bullshit, search for posts by chuckie or myself. Edit: our calipers are different to skylines (I think R34 nonturbo is similar), they are a twin-pot sliding arrangement with a much bigger pad.

Yeah there's two heater hoses that run behind the engine, I had one blow on the dyno once

Maybe in their catalogue it is, it's most likely a Koyorad core like chuckie found for our Stageas. My standard Stagea radiator is the same thickness as my standard 32 gtst one was, nearly half the size of the GTR rad I have here.

Oh yeah, the first thing I did was race back to the computer *smirk*

Huzzah! Other HID fitted

Fans back on, cooler on and plumbed up. HID's wired but only one fitted because my drill went flat fkn (typing this while I wait for it to charge)... what a cnt of a job, the retainers in the wagon would have been perfect but the retainers in the 32 required some "modification". Bonnet latch & support back on and operating well. Need to pull the reo off and give it a bit of a grind tomorrow, the dodgy hacking from the previous owner fouls the cooler in one spot Oh and a successful NIStune fitting today on a 34GTT, drive in drive out Ok lets see if this drill has enough charge fkn

Yeah pretty much the same as mine. Everything I said above stands, you need to screw the oil temp sender into a sandwich plate (or use the weldon boss listed on the website to weld to the sump). Water temp sender needs an adapter in the radiator hose to screw the sender in to. And yes, exhaust gas sensor is the o2 sensor.

There are two water temp senders, one is a single pin and the other has two pins. They are on the front of the intake manifold just before it goes to the swirl pot thing and the radiator. You usually install after market water temp senders in metal adapters that you cut into your radiator hose. Oil temp senders usually require a filter sandwhich plate or some people tap straight into the sump. Oil pressure can be Tee'd off with an appropriate fitting where the stock sender screws to the block. AFR gauge, if it doesn't come with its' own sensor, will need to be spliced into the appropriate wire in the harness (find an ECU pinout). If it taps into the stock O2 sensor then it's a bit useless as the stock is a narrow band sensor and is only used for cruise and light throttle applications. If you want a proper AFR readout then look into something like an Innovate LC-1 + gauge.

Sweet

Should fit fine if you have the 33gtst master cylinder.

Yep. And no, it's not infinitely variable.

I don't think there is any wiring difference between a "Tomei" Z32 plug and a normal Z32 plug, use the tutorial, it works. That's how I wired the Z32 afm to my Neo engine.

Where is the bubbling sound coming from? could be your heater core leaking....

Put a new coil pack loom on there, I was chasing a very similar problem for months and it turned out the plugs that go on the coils were deteriorating. I think JustJap has them for about $200 (I got mine from RHDJapan for $120 but prices have gone up I think).

Did you get the second hand or new? If new, the electrical gauges should come with senders that look pretty much like the stock water temp sender. If they are mechanical water and oil temp, then they would have come with a very long semi-flexible metal probe (thermocouple) that needs to be plumbed into your water and oil somewhere. If you're struggling, then maybe send the auto-eleccy guy that posted on here a message.

lol probably, haven't spoken to him in a while

Stock Neo ECU needs to see 70deg to enable VCT.

Wow.. the two Ford fanbois are attending! Guess I'll dig the 18"er out and give it a spit polish