bubba

I have held pieces of a plastic compressor wheel, I have never held pieces of a lunched steel compressor wheel.

I did a 30 conversion in a weekend, it's all about the 6 P's... Prior preparation prevents piss poor performance

That was just my jedi mind trick

Yes I certainly am

Will be a few months before mine is on the road again

Cheers

3k deposit for a highflow? That comes pretty close to buying a bolt-on HKS kit!!

Che pasa? Are you having actuator issues??

Not really a bad thing but it's a fkn mission as the turbo has to be stripped right down. What are you trying to achieve?

It might be driving but it definitely won't be tuned. If it's driving I'll come say hai

No worries, 99.995% sure noise won't be an issue

I think it's purely for spatial reasons, it's pretty cluttered under the standard plenum what with TPS plugs and IACV plugs in the same area. The only thing that is subject to noise is the CAS but that runs in its' own heavily shielded cable. My way will be a lot neater with the loom hidden under the plenum.

Yeah but you don't need to refill a turbo

Get your money back and then go see: http://www.per4manz.com/index.htm

Got my clutch yesterday Sent turbo off for inspection and possible rebuild (leaking a bit of oil), on the plus side I may have found who built this unknown highflow! Handbrake shoes being collected today and hopefully injectors. Went to wire in my resistor box and new injector +ve's and was left scratching my head over WHY the standard loom is laid out the way it is.. (injs 1,2,3 on main part of loom, injs 4,5,6 on sub loom that bends back on itself) seems rather pointless so I've traced back the injector earths and the common feed all the way back to near where the igniter plugs are. Not running the IACV so can actually piss off the whole front sub-harness. Going to Jaycar today to grab some more wire and will run all the injectors earths through the new loom I've made and my mate is bringing round a nice sealed plug so that the whole injector loom will be removable.

I'll take advantage of it either way!

PM's sent!

My local Nissan had them in stock.. did they say they were ex-east? or ex-japan? 3 weeks sounds about right from Japland, everything I've gotten that was ex-east gets sent in an overnight bag so I have it within a couple of days (case in point, ordered a brake booster 1-way valve on Saturday that was ex-east and it arrived yesterday).

no shits, shorts with nipple holes.. I'M EXCITED

Not yet, was about to send PM's with price and bank details so if you want in, you're just in time As for installers, I have a mate who installs boards for me. He charges $70 to come to you and fit, all he needs is a powerpoint, a table and about half an hour As for tuners, my picks are Hyperdrive and Allstar Garage, both NOR.

Nice colour Corey! Pulled the turbo off the wagon yesterday arvo.. looks like a pretty big highflow (it's unknown and came with the car), there's only a couple of mm of snout left.. keen to see how it goes on the 3L

Quick and dirty sound great, is there a danger of burning anything out with the extra load on the high beam circuit? I was going to use the high beam positive to trip a relay wired in parralel to the low beam positive..

It only require 5 pumps but because it's working off the brake light switch (I assume), if you don't take your foor all the way off the pedal it won't register the next pump. I don't push the pedal all the way either, enough to make the brake lights flick on is all the pump you need.

Nah the cops made me sign a piece of paper saying that I would only use my markers at licensed fields.. so you're safe

Just to be a little more specific here, you want to use the "catch can" as an oil/air seperator by plumbing inline with the exhaust cam cover and the return in the intake pipe. A catch can catches oil, an oil/air separator has baffles etc and scrubs the oil from the air before returning the air back to the system. A "catch can" is generally used in an atmo breathing setup and is purely to "catch" any oil exiting the breathers.