Ryno

Bass, It depends what you're trying to achieve. For that power level the standard plenum is fine, however if you want to clean up the look of your engine bay and reduce the length of your intercooler piping a front facing plenum is the way to go. When I initially went to a front facing plenum, sure I lost some bottom end, but I much preferred the look of the engine bay - also working on the engine (spark plug changes etc...) was much better. It's all about what you are trying to achieve, as my car is a daily drive (and I'm getting older) I now want to get some of the bottom end of my power curve back, so I went back to standard lower runners with the Mx Performance plenum top. At no stage did I consider going back to the standard plenum, as the negatives of aesthetics and difficulties of working on the engine out weighed the gains. Ryno

You will be reaching 100% duty cycle with 555cc injectors at that power level, it may be safer to go up one size.

I also have a R32 Gauge cluster for sale - $40 Note: The RPM gauge is faulty but the rest work as advertised

I have a few parts for sale that have come off my car, all items are located in Nowra NSW. RB25DET Jun Style Front Facing Plenum with 80mm Throttle Body - $600 Note: Comes with 3 1/2" to 3" reducer for throttle body, you will require a S13 throttle cable with this plenum. I can give you mine, however I will require your throttle cable as an exchange when you pick it up. RB25DET Polished Rocker/Cam Covers - $150 R32/S13 Hicas Lock Bar - $40 R32/R33 GTSt CES Split Dump Pipe (mild Steel with bracket for lower exhaust hanger fitted) - $200 RB25DET Timing cover backing plate - $20

The MX Plenum top is $749, though I think I paid around $800 as I had the throttle plate made to suit the 72mm throttle body I'm using.

Another option is the MX Performance bolt on plenum top. Cheaper than Plazmaman, and in my opinion it looks better too. I've just installed this to my engine, after swapping out from a Thaliand JUN copy.

After a couple of frustrating days hammering away at the car, the new inlet plenum is now fitted.... Off to the mechanics tomorrow to get the new exhaust manifold fitted and dump pipe made.

To fit the GTR bonnet, you won't need GTR headlights as mentioned in Post #4. You already have projectors and they come with the attachments for the GTR Grille. I have done this mod, and all you need is latch, grille and bonnet.

Are those bushes one piece or two? I've been using bushes similar to the link below for around 8 years will no issues. My car isn't a track car, but is driven reasonably hard at times... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SuperPro-Caster-Rod-Bushes-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-Z32-/170725212086?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c003ffb6

Very nice car... You've bought one hell of a weapon! I'm a big fan of the blue front bar in the above video... Do you know who makes it?

Impressive! Do you think that's from hitting ripple strips?

As my car is non-ABS and I have large 6 piston front brakes, I use the larger N1 master cylinder on my GTSt. It's not cheap though - it cost roughly $500 when I bought it new from Nissan 4 years ago. You're probably best to keep you eye out for someone wrecking a GTSt and try to get a used BMC that way.

Stainless Braid is the only thing used in every military aircraft I've flown.... There's a good reason for that!

What is the GReddy spacer for at the bottom of your front hubs? Is this to raise the front roll center?

I decided to "get on the tools" this weekend and fix a problem that I should have remedied years ago... The Fiberglass front splitter I've fitted is designed for a GTR, so initially it took a bit of tweaking to get it to suit my GTS. Since install it hasn't been completely flat as it touches the front sway bar. Over time this has been rubbing and has started to wear through. So to fix this I cut out the sections that were rubbing and used a section of PVC pipe as a mold. I then fiberglassed in that new shape, which will wrap around the sway bar. I then popped off the PVC pipe and 'ta daa' a new design that fits much better:

$40 is a good price, I doubt you'll do much better. I have a set that are polished that I'll sell, but I won't take less than $100 + postage

Hey Mick, My wheel offsets are: Front = 17 x 8 + 32 Rear = 17 x 9 + 44 Not sure how I'd measure the concave, but as you can see in the photo's the rears have much more concave than the fronts. If you want to check out the car just send a PM and we can sort it out from there. Ryno

Thanks mate, Yeah I'm a big fan of 7 spoke wheels, so when I first saw the XT7 design I was sold.

I've also purchased a MX Performance exhaust manifold with 1" runners to maximise exhaust speed. The internal wastegate of my GT-RS turbo will be tac welded shut, as the manifold will run a 40mm Turbo smart external wastegate. I'm looking forward to see how it transforms my current setup. My GT-RS is very responsive as it is, but with this inlet and exhaust modification, I'm hoping it will be more responsive than the stock turbo, but with 50% more power!

I decided a few months ago that I'm going to go back to a long runner intake manifold, to maximise low/mid range torque. I chose to go with a top mount plenum made my MX performance. I'm also downsizing the throttle body to 72mm and mounting it to a set of chrome plated lower runners. The internals of the plenum are bell-mouthed, so it should perform pretty well:

I had a weird thing happen when driving home last night. When almost at home and driving at 60 kph on a straight section of road, I heard a clunking sound. I pulled over and checked under the car for a dragging exhaust or a broken sway bar link etc, and couldn't find any thing. So I crawled the rest of the way home and jacked the back of the car up (as I'd isolated the sound to be coming from the back right corner). What I found was the top of my right rear Bilstein shock shaft had snapped. I wanted my car fixed for Monday, so I drove up to Sydney this morning and picked up a replacement shock from Sydney Shock Absorbers (the Bilstein distributor). They tested my other rear shock and it was still within 2% of spec, so it didn't need replacing. I must say I pretty impressed that the other rear shock (that has seen over 100,000 kays in 7 years) doesn't need replacing. It's a testament to the quality of Bilstein.

This conversation has morphed away from my original question. I am happy that I have set the correct timing of 15 deg BTDC, the issue is that my CAS is all the way to the stops to achieve it. I've since been told by my mechanic that we can change a setting in the Power FC to get the CAS in a more normal position (I assume it to advance the whole base timing by 10 deg or so), but is this kosher?

This build is taking a looooong time! Keen to see how it turns out for you though.

Yes I did use the timing loop. However the timing is set correct, as it would be pinging it's head off if the timing was advanced too far by being on that stop mistakenly. So I'm sure it is at the correct 15∘ BTDC. I just want to know why it is hard on the stop to get the correct timing? Is the cause the tune in the Power FC? Is it the Poncams? Is it an incorrectly installed timing belt?

I also seem to be having this issue of the CAS being hard over at the end of it's adjustment to get 15 deg. Is this something worth worrying about?