Ryno

I used one from an S13... You've got heaps of options

I can see why you're frustrated with the result, you've got similar peak power to my GT-RS, but almost 1000 RPM laggier.

Easiest way to dry out your car would be to put a portable dehumidifier inside and leave it running. We have a Delonghi dehumidifier that pulls 20 litres of water out of the air each day, so it would do a pretty good job at drying out your car. I wouldn't be too concerned about water in your engine/gearbox/diff oil. Though if you can't sleep at night because of it, you will only have to drain a little bit of oil from each to confirm whether there's water in there, as it is heavier than oil it will pool at the bottom.

Thanks mate, any idea what the decay column controls?

Thanks Paul, you're a champion

Does anyone know the standard PowerFC settings for the Acceleration Enrichment, for the RB25DET? Mine have been changed, so I'm wanting to know the standard settings to compare.

My power figure at 12 psi was low by comparison, because it was run on a different dyno. On that same dyno it only put down 235rwkw at 17psi, yet the car is putting out more power now than when it previously put down 250rwkw on a different dyno (I know this because my peak injector duty is higher than it was back then, with the same A/F ratios and timing). Like I said earlier dyno's are just a guide, and the only way to compare two cars is to line them up back to back on the same dyno, rather than getting all hot and bothered about what figures people post on here.

This is my point exactly... Each Dyno reads differently. At a SAU dyno day (Unique Autosports) a few years back, my car put down 10% more power than when it was tuned, and it was a hotter day! I think a lot of shops are quite happy when their dyno's read high, as the customer goes away happy. The proof is when you take it for a drive... The 255's on the back of my car won't stick to the road until 3rd gear, that's a better feeling than some numbers on paper.

I wouldn't be too disappointed if I were you, as 14 psi isn't a great deal of boost... My car makes only 240 rwhp at 12 psi (HKS GTRS) and it's not until it's at 17psi that it comes alive. The other thing is that his dyno may read lower than others, it's really only a rough guide to how much power your car is making and not worth losing any sleep over.

Not as hard as sorting out the wiring drama with the RB25... The drama with the sump is because of the AWD system, so you have two options: Remove the front wheel drive system from the RB26 sump, and then weld up the holes, or: Replace the RB26 sump, with one from a RB25, though I believe you will also have to modify the oil pickups, as they are not the same as the RB25.

The wiring is much easier, as the engine loom will all plug in to your existing looms. Then later on down the track when you are chasing more power, there are plenty of aftermarket ECU options. Are you worried about having too much power?? There's no such thing! But in any case, a standard RB26 will work well in a GTSt, then depending on what power level you are after later on down the track (ie. greater than 250 rwkw) would dictate whether you need to replace the gearbox.

Items listed on eBay... Thread can now be closed

True, however I wanted to replace the computer with a Power FC and I also didn't want to loose the variable valve timing. I realise there once was the AP Engineering Power FC for the RB20DET, but this was big bucks at the time.

You may want to do some more research. The 3.692 ratio, is found in the S15 with a 6 speed manual gearbox and not in the S14. So I'd figure out exactly what you have in your S14, before you start panicking.

Will drop into a RB25DET? Also what pistons will need to be purchased to suit?

I did the RB25DET conversion on my R32 about 6 years ago... If I were to go back in time and do it all again, I'd put a RB26DETT in instead. Heaps easier option with respect to the wiring, and a better platform to start with. Although the engine is initially more expensive, it will already come with a front mount, front facing plenum etc. So that will be money you don't need to spend later down the track. With the R33 engine, you will lose the HICAS (no problem for me as I'd already removed it all) but I still don't have the aircon step-up or speed variable power steering working. I've just learned to live without it. By the way I'm still using the RB20DET gear box, and it has been holding up fine with 250 rwkw. So work out how much power you will be after, before deciding on replacing the gearbox.

Bump

LSD Centre and Diff crown and pinion now gone... Will consider reasonable offers on the other items, as I need the space back in my garage!

Bump

Will accept $700 for the seats, other prices: RB25DET Standard Exhaust Manifold $30 R32 GTSt Half Shafts $40 (for both) R32 GTSt viscous LSD centre - Free S15 3.7:1 Diff Crown and Pinion - Free Rear mats $80 Front mats $40

Seats are coming out of the car this week. I may be able to take the seats up to Sydney this weekend, if anyone is interested up that way.

All except the grille still available

Here is the picture of the half shafts (I've also sent it to your email) Ryno

The seats were in excellent condition, however some upholstery glue was used to help stick the new material onto the seats. So I imagine they wouldn't look too good if you wanted to pull the covers off and use the original seats underneath.

GTR Grille SOLD