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Ryno

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Everything posted by Ryno

  1. If my current alternator ever packs it in, I'll definitely be getting in touch with you to do this mod.
  2. The Gurney Flap should always be mounted on the top side of the wing, but this is not to do with the height of the Gurney Flap, but rather maintaining a laminar flow on the underside of the wing (as this is the side of the wing that you need to avoid boundary layer separation). A gurney flap modifies the flow of air over the wing to maintain boundary layer contact and provide an increase in down force without the trade off of a proportional increase in drag. It's definitely not a case of bigger is better, like the wing itself... in the case of your gurney flap - you'd find that due to the large size of it, it would be creating a vortex at high speeds which is increasing drag to a greater amount than the downforce you are gaining. The idea of using a gurney flap is definitely the correct one, though if you reduce the size of it, you should have more downforce for less drag, best of both worlds!
  3. Love the build, though I'd be remaking the gurney lap if I were you. The height of the flap looks too large for the chord length of that wing. You'll be getting an inefficient level of drag associated with the extra down force the flap is creating. You should be looking at a gurney flap of around 5 -10mm in height.
  4. I've also just done this as per the outline above. Of note, the two Negative Wires (that are referred to as the bottom wires above) are coloured Orange with Blue Stripe and Orange with Black Stripe.
  5. I'm about to do this conversion with a set of Bosch Audi A4 Bi-Xenon projectors - They're the latest spec of the BMW E46 Projectors, with the metal rear end and D3S Bulbs. I'll also to a dual Hi Beam mod at the same time, so I will be getting the high beam from the projectors as well as the original High Beam center lights. Of note this will be a similar setup to my wife's BMW X5. So I'm hoping for a massive improvement. Will keep you all posted on how it turns out.
  6. Do you have the boot carpet?
  7. Arggh, such a shame you're not in Sydney. The clear coat is starting to break up on my drivers door, this would be a cheap way to fix the problem!
  8. What's the difference in the height of the block? I'd love some extra displacement, but don't have the room for the 30mm or so than an RB30 would add. This could be a cheaper option than over $5k for the Spool RB28 kit, or $8k for the Tomei kit!
  9. Re: My comments on the short runners above I'd buy 6 of something like this (or with thicker walls if you can find it): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150mm-x-150MM-50MM-OD-Universal-Alloy-90-Bend-Pipe-/290370839983?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item439b7365af They'd have an ID of 48mm, which is a pretty close match to the RB26 throttle body. Chop off the trumpets and weld them to the end of the bend, and you have some cool vertical velocity stacks! More power and a funkier look!
  10. Just read the whole thread... Very nice engine build! I love the attention to detail in building the engine, the only shame with the build is the short runner intake. Though it does look cool, you'll make much better power if you can add at least another 10 cm with a 90 deg vertical bend. A little bit of work in doing it, but it seems like you're the right man for the job! My car started out life as a RB25DE and I very nearly made the decision to sub in a RB30 block (back in 2003) to up the HP keep it N/A. The RB is such a nice feeling (and sounding) engine in NA form I was keen to keep that alive, and also do something a little different. But alas, I went for the more cost effective option of dropping a RB25DET in.
  11. If you decide to spit let me know, as I'm planning to buy a Plazmaman Plenum in the next month or so.
  12. Just paid for one, please delete
  13. I can attest that this is a perfect turbo for a RB25 daily drive... Super responsive 250rwkw+ If someone buys this, message me if you're after a custom coil pack cover to go with the turbo (see pics below) I'm switching to RB26 covers, so it's available for sale.
  14. As the title suggests, I'm after the backing plate that the front timing cover mounts to (ie. the black metal plate directly behind the cam gears). This is because I'm fitting RB26 Rocker covers to my RB25. Thanks!
  15. No longer required, please delete
  16. Yep that's the plan
  17. I'm after a set of R32 GTR Rear Guards, including the fuel filler section (flap, housing and pipe). So I can add some extra width to my GTS rear end. Colour is not important as it will be re sprayed anyway. Shoot me a PM, if you have what I'm after.
  18. My fittings arrived today, they look great... Thanks Phil
  19. I love the look of the exhaust manifold!
  20. It may not be a turbo seal you have blown... I had white smoke after lift off - when accelerating after a decel in gear/going down a hill etc... I thought the same thing and sent off the turbo to get rebuilt... It didn't fix the problem. It turned out to be broken ring lands on three pistons... The RB25 stock pistons are pretty weak. Hopefully your 20 doesn't have the same issue.
  21. I'm after a pair of RB26 Cam Covers, for a bargain price! I'm not to fussed about the condition or colour of the paint as I will probably paint strip them and polish them up. Cheers.
  22. A no-name manifold which is very similar in design to the JUN RB26 manifold. It may seem hypocritical of me (to make the comments above) but JUN didn't make this manifold for RB25, so it wasn't a blatant carbon copy of an exisiting design, like they're doing with the GReddy manifolds, and now the Plazmaman.
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