Ryno

My number is 0414792608, for any other queries. Items are located in Nowra, NSW.

Payment pending for the GTR Grille... Also have genuine R32 floor mats... Rear mats $100 - they are the thicker carpet style, with metal "Skyline" Tag. Awesome condition for age with almost no sun fade on the centre mat Front mats $50 - the carpet on these is the thiner style, with plastic Skyline Logo. Drivers side is fairly worn, but probably still better condition than most, passengers side is good.

Hey Julz, Not yet, I'm waiting for the rails to arrive from Japan. Cheers

R32 GTR Front seats recovered with "reborn automotive leather" from proseat.com.au $800 Plus also have: R32 GTR Front Grille (Genuine in Gunmetal Grey) $140 RB25DET Standard Exhaust Manifold $40 R32 GTSt Half Shafts $50 (for both) R32 GTSt viscous LSD centre $20 S15 3.7:1 Diff Crown and Pinion $50

Payment received, will put them in the post today. You should have them by the end of the week.

Not exactly what you're after, but if you get stuck I have a genuine GTR grill in Gun metal grey I'll sell for $150 incl postage.

I have one you can have for $60 incl postage

I purchased a pair of Bride Ergo 2 seats from another member on this forum, and the seat rails do not fit my car. They're in excellent condition, but will only fit the R34 GTt, and not other skyline models. $200 pickup from Nowra, or $230 delivered. Call or PM (0414792608)

Arrived today... Thanks Julz!

These would look great on my boat trailer, it's just a pity you're in Melbourne.

Like I said above... Swap the other two friction plates around. Won't cost you a cent (other than some more diff oil). Nathan from O2 Autosports (on this forum as DRIFTER) as done exactly that on the GTR diff in his R32 drift car, and (with only that change) the diff is now tight enough to suit his drifting.

I have a 3.7 Diff ratio that I'm keen to get rid of, but that may be too tall for what you're after.

Apparently from factory only 4 of the 6 friction plates are oriented the correct way to grip. Another way to tighten it up, is to swap the other two plates around so all 6 are doing the work.

Hey mate, I have a front bar that may interest you... See attached pic. It has a few scratches, so it may need a respray in the long run. I'm located in Toowoomba, but may be able to organise meeting you somewhere closer when I next go to the Goldcoast... $100 Ryno

I have what you need, though I'm in Toowoomba... Happy to sell you both shafts for $150 incl postage

Yeah that was the same thought I had. I was actually looking at paying around the same money for R34 Brembo's, but these seemed like a much better buy. I haven't taken the car to the track, but I'm sure they would be awesome. During the bedding in process, they were still wanting to lock a front wheel on the 10th stop from 100 kph. I personally don't think the rears will be necessary, as the fronts do most of the work. I also wouldn't worry so much about the possible brake bias change, as that is set by the Brake master cylinder anyway. If I do go for the rear kit later on, it will mainly be for the look, rather than the performance.

Hey mate, I have installed the Arizona Z car 300zx kit on the front of my R32. The kit bolts up directly, the only issue you will have is the front brake lines not being long enough. I got new braided ones made up for about $100. The brakes cost me around $2000 Aus (incl shipping)... so add $100 for lines and $20 for fluid. I have not purchased the rear kit yet, as they do not use the standard cable handbrake - as my car is a daily driver I wanted to keep this. Dave has almost finished his new setup for this though, which includes an additional small billet calliper mounted on the disc for the cable handbrake setup. If you have any more specific questions on the install, I'm happy to help Ryno

This is who I bought my brake setup from, except I purchased the 300zx kit. Awesome package for the money. The only issue with the install, was having to get some longer brake lines made up. Given the size of the calliper and rotors is much larger, I was surprised to find they actually turned out to be the same weight as the stock R33 GTS25t brakes they were replacing. Don't worry about Roys post above... The quality of the Arizona Z car kits are awesome, and Dave is great to deal with - if you go down this path, you won't be disappointed.

Bugger... How am I going to get this past the wife

I use Wilwood callipers on my car... The callipers in that ad are the entry level cast 4 piston callipers, where as the ones I run are 6 piston Billet Superlight Callipers. I believe the 4 piston callipers wouldn't be much better than your stock ones, but the increase in Disc size would be worthwhile.

No worries... Here's the link with some info on how to do the install: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/S1...32-t305594.html

You can shim the standard viscous centre to improve its performance (there's a thread on how to do it in the DIY section). In my opinion it's not really worth it, as it will wear out again and be open wheeling in no time. If you're going to pull the diff apart to shim the centre, you may as well replace the centre with a better one. So I guess in order of expense you have 4 options: 1. Shim your current centre, cost $50. 2. Replace the centre with a Helical (Torsen) centre out of a turbo S15. This is what I have done in my car... I have written a thread on how to do it (and the benefits) in this forum. You will need an S15 diff and half shafts - it cost me $250. 3. Replace your diff centre, half shafts, and hubs with the same from a R32 GTR. If you can get these at a good price, it is a very good option as the R32 GTR diff is mechanical and has stronger half shafts. Though expect to pay between $500 - $1000 for all you need. 4. Replace your centre with an aftermarket 1.5 or 2 way Mechanical. Expect to pay upwards of $1000 (new). As I said I went for the 2nd option. I'm very happy with the diff, it has a gear type centre that will never wear out, and by design the diff equalises torque between the rear wheels - So when you go round a corner, the outside wheel (which is rotating faster) gets more power applied to it, to equalise the torque with the inner wheel. This makes for a very good diff for street and circuit driving, as it helps drive the back end of the car around the corner. Options 3 and 4 are better if you're into drifting. Hope that helps, Ryno

Hey Guilian, I have been using an Xtreme Cushioned Button Clutch, with matching lightened flywheel for the past 3-4 years. I can't fault it - it's fine for street driving (only a little heavier than stock) and has held up my 250 rwkw without a problem. My wife also has no drama's driving with it, so I'd definitely recommend going with one. Ryno

Yeah mine lasted about 2 1/2 years, it's frustrating, because for the money you wouldn't expect to have a problem with it. I've now gone back to a hi flow ceramic cat, as I don't want the dramas.

My Stainless Magic Cat did the same thing... You didn't buy it from a group buy on here a few years ago? I don't think the cat is the problem in this case though, because the power graph doesn't flatten off at the top - like it would when there is a flow restriction of some kind.