GTRAAH

Not a cheap excersise? Wuldnt it be cheaper then putting a to4z in ? I have cams already so i wouldnt need most of the stuff, All i need would be........... headwork, crank, pistons, rods, ALL THE WEAK BITS oil pans, oil resitrictors, n1 oil pump etc im looking 7grand MAX to get it done. Ive already spent around 20k on the rest of the shit. Incl labour. Do you know any good machiners? that know what there talking about for instance if i show them this thread

@ beer Baron as these guys are saying *dont machine out the boors too far, get the crank balanced to a high degree *get it grout filled to the bottom of the welsh plugs to strengthen, get a good harmonic balancer either Ross tuffbond or ATI. *get good set of cams and plenty of head work Surely all this would make it more durable then an n1 block?

LOL GEEZUS broke a GT block, must of been a dudd block

Legends ill print out allll your replies so when im ready i know what to ask for.

Thanks BWRGTR, Is there anyway to keep an Eye out on the wear and tear? Maybe compression test it every 6 months or so? What do you think?

Type B Tomei adjustable Cams ( Cant remember the measurments, but they are lumpy on idling) Tomei Dump pipes Sard 720cc injectors Sard intank fuel pump PFC Z32 AFMS Air pods Garret -5 turbos Fuel Regulator Greddy Boost Controller 2 profec B Oil - Air seperator catch Can Xtreme Single plate Heavy Duty Clutch Os Giken 5 gear set Alluminium intercooler/turbo piping Oil cooler Spitfire coils 3.5 inch exhaust 600hp rated Cat convertor So far what i have , ALl internals must be rebuilt forged. I Have not decided what yet

Is it recommended to change the block if your goal is around 400awkw, I want a healthy engine that is rock solid and wont break. Can the normal rb26 blocks handle this power healthy? without wearing it down. And yes ofcourse meaning everything else is forged. and all the other mods are added the last thing is the Block, should it be kept standard or change it to an N1 block

LOL but thats because there are WAY more RWD cars being worked on And there are WAY more RWD on the roads. PLUS ive seen a 1000hp SUPRA vs 800HP GTR and the GTR caught it 2 seconds in the race, and beat it.

well im saying 3-4 yrs time i want to rebuild the insides i only drive this car maybe 2-3 times a week, Sorry i forgot to tell you all its not an everyday car as in im not boosting all the time PLUS its my weekend car, Does that change things? i want it to last 3-4 yrs healthy before an internal rebuild, And i have just talked to the tuner and he stated that it wasnt pinging or knocking on that PSI setting

Im definately happy with 21psi but i feel that it might climb alittle higher but nothing past 22psi id say. But if i set it to 21psi i want to keep it around 3-4 yrs before i do my Internals Etc So i want it too last for that long

Got the car when it had 68,000km Fresh from japan, now its 116,000kms Ive also done the 100,000km Service, On top of all these mods bellow, Type B Tomei adjustable Cams ( Cant remember the measurments, but they are lumpy on idling) Tomei Dump pipes Sard 720cc injectors Sard intank fuel pump PFC Z32 AFMS Air pods Garret -5 turbos Fuel Regulator Greddy Boost Controller 2 profec B Oil - Air seperator catch Can Xtreme Single plate Heavy Duty Clutch Os Giken 5 gear set Alluminium intercooler/turbo piping Oil cooler Spitfire coils 3.5 inch exhaust 600hp rated Cat convertor ALL INTERNALS ARE STOCK Now long story short I got a tune done but little did the the tuner know there was a rip in one of the hoses this was before i got the piping done, So he set it to 15psi and the car was doing 316-320awkw, He pretty much tuned the car around the leak and everything looked fine, after i got the the pipiing done the car went quicker id say the boost went up automatically, must of been all that extra air going to through. Since then i have taken it to the tuner, his played alittle with the mixtures and so on but didnt touch the boost assuming its where he left it, he was pretty happy with everything, VERY little Knock. I checked the boost recently cause i found out how to and it peaked at around 21psi And now id say its 350awkw-360awkw. Is this bad for the car? because its got stock internals how long roughly would will she last with all this beating last time i checked the compression was around 165psi on all cylinders. that was at the 100,000km mark.

LO peaked at around 16psi HI peaked at 21 psi wtf!! Ok i think i may have figured something out, this is the story after i snapped my gearbox i took it in to get it rebuilt, after a few tweaks and gearbox done the car went harder then it did before so im like how can this happen mark said he just adjusted a few things but didnt touch the boost, NOW previous to all this at the last tune he said he set it to 15psi and it was doing around 316-320awkw so i drove it for ahwile and was happy then one day i decide to change all my intercooler piping and the guy that does my labour noticed one of the hoses was torn so he replaced it all and the car went better then it did after the first tune, So i was happy, then the gearbox broke so on so on..... now i presuming he now has tweaked it alittle more because there is much more airflow coming through because of the hose before, which has now pushed the boost to 21psi without even touching the boost controller is this possible? Is this bad wear and tear for the engine i thought i was doing 316awkw but now id say its more like 350-360awkw . On stock internals Hmmm should i change this. another strange thing is if no one changed the boost controller why would the warning on hi be set to 1.6bar .

I will do it when i leave work, just abit scary on these roads with all this power lol

I might have asked a stupid question i just spoke to yavuz at unigroup and he stated that the best way to tell is jump in the car and take off and watch the controller , f*kn hell i didnt know these things were that complicated

OK so can someone tell me what my boost is on i went through all the screens in hi setting. Main screen shows this without any boost just on idle Hi -.50 x100 kpa 2nd Hi Gain 10% 3rd Hi Set gain 0.00 x100 kpa 4th Hi warning 1.60 X100 kpa 5thHi L. 0% Warning 6th LO HI Peak 1.78 x100 KPA

yes it says x100 KPA It shows that in the warning screen. I just rang the tuner and he was not there but one of the guys said No wayyy mark would of set it to 23psi.

Really hmm never heard that... How are insight? any bad news from them hows the staff etc XCALBA You done a 11.3 1/4 on 290rwkw Damm nice run.. whats the trick lol?

i think mine is set to bar... if i was told mine was running around 15 pounds what number should i see if its not set to psi, and which screen do i see it in i changed one of the screens and it says PEAK 1.78 and that = 25 pounds in bar so wtf, how can i be running 25psi no way!!! on the garret -5 turbos all my internals are stock mark at hills said it was set at 15 pounds the last time he touched it and said its healthy that way you wont blow your internals i checked the warning and its set to 1.6 on hi and 1.2 on lo.... IM seriously getting reallllllly dissapointed if im running 25psi Im used to the car FLYING like this but not with this much boost i wanted alot off lee way so when i get my internals done, i can up the boost to 25psi ACTUALLY 1.6 WARNING SOUNDS MORE LIKE HE DID SET IT TO 15 PSI RIGHT? HOW DO I KNOW IF ITS PSI OR BAR

Unigroup sounds good but they have 2wd dyno i want accurate 4wd kw output any other place with 4wd?

HMM that says it all, Other then taking forever to do a job and being almost impossible to contact, Does he tune good! in anyones experience, I dont know if its just coensidence but everytime i go to him and i get something adjusted something else annoys me for example warm starts now hesitate to reach normal idle 3-5secs, lots of black smoke on boost = very rich, low kms from a whole tank = very rich also. Done my gearbox os giken 5 speed set with him he says the gearbox guy changed 4 synchros now i dont know if they are brand new synchros or what he says he wants to have a feel of it next time i go, But anyways SOMETIMES my gears feel somewhat notchy other times its normal isnt it supposed to feel like a brand new car 24/7 ? Im getting sick of taking my car back and forth!!

Hmm dammm nice work on the ceramics lol.. Does everyone here know Mark at hills, and what do you think of his work?

Does anyone reccomend a good tuner or better then Hills? Someone that knows GTR'S very well.

Im going to go with the Tune, because when it was stock it never had this problem, its only when the PFC went in and tune etc

Sorry but I dont understand what your saying? The tune is Marginal ? And whats IAC and AAC?

how do i check what boost im on with this unit?