GTRAAH

Breifly want to state what my car is so i might be able to get some help, i have upgraded my car Cams , turbos, fuel reg, injectors, pump, PFC, afms, air pods. Tuned Etc. Now when i leave the car off for about 1 hr then start it again it once in every 10 starts it needs a push on the throttle to get it up to stable idle. Why is that? Cold start it ALWAYS starts perfect. Could it be that theres not enough fuel going in at warm crank meaning Tune? But then why does it only do it sometimes?

Are input shaft and main shaft the same thing? i think it did come with the input....... Well i know that when i snapped 3rd on my stock box he said something wedged itself between the main shaft and put smal hairline cracks in it, he said to me that this shaft doesnt have force on it so it doesnt ever brake he said he had one from an r33 so he used it. The only reason i broke it is because of the gear braking and wedging itself in it.

I cannot find any info on this drag version box im going to see him in a few weeks and say what are you talking about drag verion?? hills motorsport just over 4k delievered.

Ohh HOw much are the synchros worth? Is it hard to replace them later on down the track? As in is it a big job? I dont have a link i was just told by Mark @ hills what they were and what they called. Now that you mentioned it wtf is he on about drag version?? This guy supposedly knows a whole lot of shit on GTR i cant find anything on a drag version 5 gear set. And do they use the normal 4th gear? So does that mean my old 4th gear is in there or Osgiken redone a 4th gear but used the same stock ratio? and If there is no 4th gear why do they call it 5 speed if they only give you 4 gears in the package, im confused.

Yeh mine does that as i come off a gear in boost {{{Puffff}}},, they say its the nature of the beast!!... BUT i think mines running alittle too rich 330km a tank doesnt seem rightt, thats around 4 launches and around 7 boots as in 7 times i have pput the foot down but for like 10-15 secs at a time!! i used to do around 400-430km full tank. but thats only giving it a couple times maybe a couple boots. But 100km just for a few extra foot downs???? is that right? Evry time i take it to this tuner and he plays around or adjust soemthing and something elsee annoys me like now on warm crank theres not enough fuel as sometimes when i start it hesitates for 5 secs to get to a stable 1000rpm idle

Nigel where you at mate if your in sydney i might come for a drive so you can have a quick look at it?

the gears are huge on this thing anyways I have recently put in this box in and i would of thought it would turn out to be a brand new box as in perfect smooth slow gear changes like a brand new car, but they are alittle notchy. Is this normal?

I was told they can withstand 1200hp this guy they know had the same box and he has done PLENTY of 9 sec runs in it, and still solid. Is the gearbox meant to be alittle notchy i would of thought that its like a brand new gearbox as in perfectly smooth gear changes like a brand new car, I dont know input shaft?? is that the main shaft? if so i put an r33 gtr one in there they are alittle stronger.

Whoops we talking about bushes and he i am thinking ball joint sorry my bad, So how do you check bushes? and are subframe bushes the samething?

LOL i do know how to Drive!! no one is perfect mate it happens! 20k??? wtf no yes i think n1gtr got my drift its 5spd kit that goes in the casing Mark at hills said there was a street version and drag version and i have the drag version. He said he has never seen this one before must be new.

Is it visible from the engine bay? and what costs am i looking at?

haha hates when it happens! Nah i never limit bash

yeh just sounds like its screaming in pain loll

Toyos is it!!!

Actually this morning as im driving it was at 13.3 v stable i put the air con on and it dropped too 13v-13.2 it just goes up and down a few point depending, see if the lights are on stereo are on etc, it will be at around 12.8 is this normal?

alternator has been like this for a year now It works but i find if i park and leave the reds on or im listeniing to music for lets say 30min-1hr i have new battery dry cell type. But i find that when i start the car and drive with the air con for instance im looking at the battery power and its at 12.2 v and i take my foot off accelerate it drops to 11.9 and i get a warning beep from the turbo timer it eventually rises to normal level i think around 12.7-12.9v but i think my alternator might be on its way out i heard it should sit stable at around 13v, and i should b able to have the music on for more then 2 hrs right before battery drains??? can i get a recoditioned alternator or get mine recond? and how much am i looking at?

I have just put in the latest drag version of the os giken box, Something my tuner says his never seen before he said it was a new type, The gears were huge he claims, Alittle noisy but im not worried. Neways Now this happens very rarely usually in the first 3 gears, As im booting it a miss a gear on the odd moment and the revs go through the roof 8-9000rpm, Is that harming my engine? I have stock internals but everything around i have modded cams, injectors, pump, PFC bla bla and the rest , only thiing i need now is the internals done. But neway i just feel like i've hurt the engine in someway and i get realllly shitttyyy when it happens as this car is my pride and joy, What harm am i actually doing when this occurs?

lol i needed pinkslip asap so i just had to get tyres ASAP so i thought f*k it it was NOT 330awkw at that stage it was stock standard. these tyres are lasting forever im waiting till they wearr lol. How can you tell if the bushes are worn without replacing them should the wheel move up and down if its on lift. what if the wheels are solid no movement up and down could it still mean the bushes are worn?

Lolll a mixeddd verdictttttt HMMMMMM

I have not got a reply in general maintenance section so i thought im posting in the wrong area maybe someone here can shed some light on this. I HAVE VERY SHIT tyres worth 120 each, And japanese version of Ohlin suspension VERY HARD non adjustable rears. Only on some surfaces but most of the times when i boot it then flick it into 2nd gear The tyres screetch and i hear and feel do dodododod , the sound of the back tyres hopping as they are trying to grip the ground. What do you think it is could it be that the suspension is too stiff for the street or the tyres are too hard not sticky enough??? i have had the car on hoists and nothing looks damaged or what ever.

I HAVE VERY SHIT tyres worth 120 each, And japanese version of Ohlin suspension VERY HARD non adjustable rears. Only on some surfaces but most of the times when i boot it then flick it into 2nd gear The tyres screetch and i hear and feel do dodododod , the sound of the back tyres hopping as they are trying to grip the ground. What do you think it is could it be that the suspension is too stiff for the street or the tyres are too hard not sticky enough??? i have had the car on hoists and nothing looks damaged or what ever.

Im going to try and explain this to detail but i hope i dont confuse everyone.....Everytime i take it to the tuner and he touches it in one way or another, he says he adjusts this and that, well the car seems to go better but then something else is different for instant i noticed when i start the car in morning itsart perfect but as im in a rush i start driving but never go over 3000rpm before it gets warm, anyway it used to be fine but now when i get to a light and its still cold and i come to a complete stop the idle drops to around 500rpm and slowly work its way up, it used to be the other way around where the revs would sit at around 1200rpm till the car gets warm. NOW heres the funny thing if i just start the car and dont drive it, it stays at 1200rpm and as it gets warmer dropss slowly. Previous to the last time i took it to the tuner used to be better as when i drive it when its cold and i come to a complete stop it still sits at 1200rpm and gets lower and lower untill it sits at 1000rpm when its warm. But now Its like when i interupt that process and start driving and when i come to a complete stop it doesnt stay at the high rev it drops to about 500rpm and works it way up when it slowly gets warmer and eventually gets to 1000rpm at a stable idle. IM REALLY SICK OF LEAVING MY CAR OVERNIGHT WITH THEM BECAUSE THATS JUST A HASSLE!! is there anyway i can adjust it with them without it ebing in the morning and a fresh start??? any setting in the power fc that can allow you to change the idle at 0c-10c temperature or below or what ever without the car actually being that cold?

Cool Also has the dipstick joined onto it right?

Need the power steering fluid cap wire included. Its ok if the wire is cutt off as i can re- attach it myself, Aslong as its cut away from the cap so i have room to re-wire.

Has anyone officially fixed it?