DaveB

Is there a separate climate control unit on the M35's? I'd be tempted to see how much a replacement one from yahoo actions is... (ie. importmonster)

Definitely can do on the car, without removing anything (well having a hoist obviously made it easier). I removed one using a G-clamp; but perhaps you could even get it undone using an oil filter wrench... I can't remember what the mechanic used who undid mine on the car but it may have been an oil filter wrench.

Update on what's still available, Stock NEO coilpacks, 'silicone fix' done, 2 with rubber insulators cut short for another project... $50 all 6 - 4 left with insulators, sell all 4 for $40 Stock NEO coilpack harness. 1 or two plugs have a broken clip (see second image) so they don't 'click' but they are still a tight fit; cheap repair if your loom has had it. was on hold for another member, I just have to get around to calling him and arranging another time (sorry let me know if you still want this Jamie) Series 1/Neo rocker cover with textured black finish & Stagea emblem SOLD Series 2 auto wheel with tiptronic buttons. Wheel only, no airbag module/plastic covers. Has some marks which I have tried to represent as accurately as possible in the pictures. Good condition overall. $100 Gabriel 143057 strut mount dust boot and bump stop kits, 2 of, as new. Test fitted but not used. Missing only a standard cable tie each, but come with two extra Monroe "strut mate" bump stops each. Cost ~$60 each from Superchep. Suit Commondoor? $20 each Pair Kelpro steering rack boots (not for Stagea?) SRB-003 new - pair $10 Series 1 RS-Four auto complete ATTESA assembly, including working pump, and mounting frame. Note: The ATTESA accumulator unit is lacking some charge and will probably cause your ATTESA relay to click, often, as it is off my series 2. You just need to get it recharged. I have been quoted between $6,000 and $7,000 for this assembly new from Nissan. $50 Unknown Nissan HID ballasts w/plugs. These were 'mistakenly' given to me by the compliance workshop when I requested my HID units back. Hope someone can identify the model from the part number on the ballasts. SOLD pending payment - PS. these are apparently off a Cima Driver's upper door seal, good condition, guessing about 150,000K's of wear (compared to mine with the same wear/condition) - $20 Set of standard S2 RS-FourV (auto) front and rear struts, removed at 130,000K's about 3 months ago. In good working condition and gives a nice comfortable ride, but was too high for my liking (gave a ride height of about 390mm front & rear). SOLD Pair of standard S2 RS-FourV (auto) rear upper arms (rear camber arms) with bushes, was in good condition but needed to go adjustable arms after I upgraded my suspension - SOLD pending payment Please let me know interest/ask questions by posting here or PM - I check the forums often. thanks DaveB

I would get the swaybar but I believe AWD one is different to RWD?

Missed this somehow - I haven't gotten around to organising to have them machined down again, but the plan is to do that in the next 1-2 weeks when I have some other work I need to finish; then you can be sure that I'll let you know. I think there is also a bendix equivalent pad on here somewhere for around $100 a set thereabouts? Maybe less... I will probably look that up.

One member has, yes (think it was chook?), I have one which I might get around to installing one day...

If it does fix the problem, it could still be that the bump stops are too high...

I had what sounds like exactly the same issues as you describe. If your issues are like mine, your ride will eventually get softer as your bump stops get destroyed and thus clearance improves. However I used the standard ones which had perished already, and the bilstein (actually whiteline I think) ones are softer and might survive better. At any rate I am betting that you don't have enough bump stop clearance. Understeering on bumpy roads is nasty, so is locking up the front brakes at the first hint of a bump going down hill. I recommend you get the bump stops checked out - you might need another 10 or 20mm clearance. In my experience you DON'T want to be hitting the bump stops all the time, that wrecked my ride and handling. I would've taken them out all together if that was the only solution (although I then would have thought less of the kit design!). My issues are documented from this post here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5052465 PS 330mm sounds a bit low (think the kit height was supposed to be 340mm? close enough I guess) I think mine's set at 360mm.

No worries Stooge, I haven't had it connected to test it; Jap' auction report was that it was working. Globes are easy to remove, there's a thread or two on here about finding replacements; these are old so expect one or two not to work I guess. I was going to simply replace the globes with LEDs (keeping the original plastic base). The buttons/jog dial all work freely; but that's all I can say sorry. I'm pretty happy with the lack of wear of the buttons/labels. I'm pretty sure the plugs are physically different besides being different colours, so there should be no worry of plugging the wrong one in somehow. Just let me know how you go; I see you have a '99 (so definitely series 2) so should be a match. thanks DaveB

Wow, that's some carnage. Sorry to hear about your little episode there, glad you are getting it sorted but OVER 4 MONTHS later... wow. Just would like to point out, the Nistune is not a piggy-back, it's a complete real-time-tunable ECU remap. Which I use and recommend... at the offered price of around $400 (you can afford the time off the road to post away your ECU atm, I should think ) it's the best value of anything out there, IMO. So long as your tuner can tune Nistune type 4 boards

Sorry about the timing Duncan! thanks for the bump. Yes it cost me over $100 to get here in the first place.

I bought this from the Japanese auctions to convert my Xanavi to standard setup, but have since decided it's too much work for now... Please note that the brackets shown in the pic' are *not* included... let me know if you want brackets and I will try to find some (I think I have some more). Note that the plugs are grey, after much, much research I chose one which I believe to be series 2 standard. Following is a close-up of the model markings: Asking for $40 + postage. Item located in Adelaide. cheers DaveB

did you pm Stagea-86?

Hi Dave I have e-mailed you re. the rear bar

Great news! Glad it worked

Great stuff guys, good info' on the units from Nissan and I will have to check out that web address... sorry I missed your reply Aki but in answer to your question: I don't know what the pressure is because I replaced my accumulator with a used, known-good second-hand unit. 1,000PSI sounds like a lot but could be right. Hopefully if there is a place who can recharge them they will know.

Nissan, or just possibly, an R31 assembly might fit.

PM sent... you have pic's?

Update on what's still available, Stock NEO coilpacks, 'silicone fix' done, 2 with rubber insulators cut short for another project... $50 all 6 - 4 left with insulators, sell all 4 for $40 Stock NEO coilpack harness. 1 or two plugs have a broken clip (see second image) so they don't 'click' but they are still a tight fit; cheap repair if your loom has had it. On hold for another member, I just have to get around to calling him and arranging another time (sorry been away!) Series 1/Neo rocker cover with textured black finish & Stagea emblem SOLD Series 2 auto wheel with tiptronic buttons. Wheel only, no airbag module/plastic covers. Has some marks which I have tried to represent as accurately as possible in the pictures. $100 Gabriel 143057 strut mount dust boot and bump stop kits, 2 of, as new. Test fitted but not used. Missing only a standard cable tie each, but come with two extra Monroe "strut mate" bump stops each. Cost ~$60 each from Superchep. Suit Commondoor? $20 each Pair Kelpro steering rack boots (not for Stagea?) SRB-003 new - pair $10 Series 1 RS-Four auto complete ATTESA assembly, including working pump, and mounting frame. Note: The ATTESA accumulator unit is lacking some charge and will probably cause your ATTESA relay to click, often, as it is off my series 2. You just need to get it recharged. I have been quoted between $6,000 and $7,000 for this assembly new from Nissan. $50 Unknown Nissan HID ballasts w/plugs. These were 'mistakenly' given to me by the compliance workshop when I requested my HID units back. Hope someone can identify the model from the part number on the ballasts. SOLD pending payment - PS. these are apparently off a Cima Driver's upper door seal, good condition, guessing about 150,000K's of wear (compared to mine with the same wear/condition) - $20 Set of standard S2 RS-FourV (auto) front and rear struts, removed at 130,000K's about 3 months ago. In good working condition and gives a nice comfortable ride, but was too high for my liking (gave a ride height of about 390mm front & rear). $50 Pair of standard S2 RS-FourV (auto) rear upper arms (rear camber arms) with bushes, was in good condition but needed to go adjustable arms after I upgraded my suspension - $25 pair Please let me know interest/ask questions by posting here or PM - I check the forums often. thanks DaveB

Please note as in my post here the 954S is 6mm oversize and a different thickness (~4mm thinner, meaning also a different minimum thickness). I'm not an engineer but I would assume that would mean something like 4mm more piston travel and I don't know if the piston will like it or not (I am guessing it would be ok but it's just a guess). Fitting these rotors to my 2000 RS-FourV resulted in a lot of smoke and grinding; I could only drive the car about 2km. I've put some pics of the damage to the rotors below: Front Back Some other users have had luck using these as a direct swap. I need to machine mine down and hopefully it will be OK. regards DaveB

Email sent

Thanks for that excellent info' Peter

Deatschwerks injectors (www.deatschwerks.com) are around the same price and also have heard good reports.

A NZ member on here told me he used a C34 unit on his '34 GTR. Unsure about 32.