DaveB

Unsure of what State OP is in, but in Adelaide we have JayRad who sell Denso parts; I took my old (auto) radiator to them and they measured it up and found a replacement with trans cooler but ~2 inches thick overall (original is about 1 inch thick I think from memory, a bit undersize IMHO). The new unit was somewhere around $300-350.

Nice shots there Dave congratulations again. Especially like this one

Have you still got your passenger side weather strip attached? When I had mine removed () and washed the stagea with the usual pay-n-spray high pressure job, I found if I sprayed too directly at the passenger window seal some water made it into the sill and that's exactly where it ended up... around the ECU/passenger foot well. Also there seem to be a few people on here who have had to replace their heater core; could be that too I guess?

From the pic's it's auto

S2 Stagea (C34), RB25 NEO Tiptronic auto gearbox (R34) - Nistune'd ECU - GCG high-flow of stock NEO turbo (OP6 housing) - running 17PSI boost, drops off to about 16 up top - BP98 - stock engine rebuilt, only major new parts were ACL race bearings throughout and CP forged pistons (SC3708 - the '33 ones) & rings, 1.8mm Nitto head gasket to accommodate squish area for the pistons - side-mounted air-water intercooler (~500hp unit)

Had I my time over again I'd have stuck with the stock pistons and gone for 500hp and waited until something broke, *then* rebuilt lol... Josh what is the boost build like on a GT35? My GCG highflow is pretty much as responsive as stock but makes more power everywhere. I would like something that will make real power though...

I did get caster & camber bushes done about 12 months ago, though after lots of poking/levering/listening I think the noise is coming from the steering ram; it does sound very metallic not like the "squeek squeek" I've heard from ungreased bushes before though I could be wrong

Looking good Josh! Will be interested to know what your dyno graph looks like when you've finished tuning. Roughly what horsepower is your GT35 capable of?

Hi all, Getting a strange metallic crunching/groaning noise from the front (loudest at driver's side) which shows up usually when stopping right near dead still, or when just starting from a standstill. Also when it has 'loaded up' after stopping and has made this noise, then turning the steering wheel on the spot will reproduce it as well. Though general steering/braking etc. seems to remain unaffected. Noise has been getting worse lately. Can reproduce by moving the front wheels by hand at the sides (as if turning left & right), loud metal-on-metal groaning noise, sounds to be coming from the steering rack. Tie rod ends recently replaced. I can feel movement in the tierod end bolts which doesn't all seem to be transferred to the steering arms but the noise does seem to be coming from the hydraulic rack. It sounds like the rack outer ends are running dry or something? Anybody experienced a similar issue in their C34?

lol might I suggest a few things and people can chip in with others I've missed: ignition: - coilpacks (checked) - plugs - plug gaps fuel: - IAC valve (clean it - see the DIY, unsure of differences with the NEO engine) - MAF sensor - may need cleaning, or resoldering of pins (cut silicone out of the square, remove, resolder, re-silicone... in the DIY somewhere on SAU) - injectors (may need cleaning) - injector latency? (I just replaced mine with new Deatschwerks 600cc units and the tuner said that the latency adjustment was not fine enough to get a perfect idle) Also check your idle speed setting - on the auto the idle is only 650RPM I don't personally believe, with the stock setup at least, that the stagea should idle any other than brilliantly. Mine did, and with the large aftermarket injectors now fitted it is not horrible, only slightly rough.

Digging up an old thread... I know... but mine has done this for the ~3 years I have owned it; symptoms are park at ~3/4 lock and apply a slight turning force to the wheel and you can feel the assistance take the wheel and then let go sporadically.

That's a great result, glad to hear. I actually developed a slightly rough idle after going to 600cc injectors (neo); this was apparently to do with not having quite enough resolution in the latency settings. It doesn't bother me; sounds kinda 'tough', and for the increase in power I'll tolerate it

It's a GCG high-flowed stock '34 (the OP6 housing) I wondered about that... seems that my pinging problems weren't really timing related though

I'm running 18 psi max boost but its dropping to about 16-17 apparently (turner told me this, apparently have hit the turbo's limit). E10 is available at a couple of servos, I will have to give it a go once I have a new fuel filter standing by... or perhaps even before. The iebc wouldn't work for the tune after I tried reducing the bleed orifice size to about 1mm so he plumbed a boost T in instead which is working up top but I'm missing the fast boost build of the electronic controller a LOT. So will swap back at some stage. Car is apparently tuned to 19+ psi so I can just setup the boost myself.

Ok... an update. Replaced CAS (thanks Bob) but no change; spoke to the tuner and arranged to get the head gasket replaced rather than rebuild again; was finished this week. At last, engine issues appear to be sorted There was another R34 with an RB25 which was rebuilt in exactly the same way, with the same pistons by the same workshop using the same machine shop etc etc and it made 280rwkw after installation of a thicker head gasket. I had my engine repaired in the same way and retuned, now making about 230rwkw with the auto and awd; not too bad a result. I can say that, when trying to make power, it really sucks to have an auto. The same tune in a manual R34 should be at least 260-270 rwkw IMO. But, I like the way the auto drives, and I like not having to pay for clutches. Plus stall launches at ~13psi are just *awesome*. What is your 'real-life power test' Bob - was it 80-100? 80-120? I can't remember... will have to check it but it gains speed pretty swiftly now, even up there. Tuner has raised the rev limit to 7,150 which makes 2nd gear a lot more usable; especially for overtaking on the highway... plus 380kms out of the first tank not toooo bad I guess since was only ~410kms before with much less BOOST. So a note for future reference: if you rebuild your NEO RB25DET with CP forged pistons, you will need to measure things up very carefully; I needed a 1.8mm head gasket (I think that's what it was) instead of the usual 1.3mm to get "quench" area right. The problem with detonation appears *not* to have simply been high static compression, as I originally thought (or else I would have perhaps been justified in wanting some more in the way of compensation from the engine builder), but I believe instead it was something about the piston design where it wanted more squish/quench area to prevent something weird with the flamefront which was causing pre-ignition... sounds fuzzy and it is (in my mind anyway). This change of .5mm head gasket thickness meant a return of ignition advance and large increase in power without detonation. BTW I am unaware of any off-the-shelf forged pistons for NEO. The only ones I have heard of are custom orders from the US which are copies of the stock cast item, but made in forged.

cheers well might catch you guys at some stage when adam's finished with the coils, if you let me know when you're 'in town' again I could pick them up?

Cheers yes getting used to having the dash in and out now... cool Chris... well to replace the dud and a couple of dim ones I reckon 3... if they're not black already let me know what you want for them

Are the bulbs in the aircon unit the same as the dash?

I will hopefully have my standard NEO AFM for sale after I get a tune on the Z32 one I have, on the 15th...

I've searched for a while & looked in the DIY etc. but I can't find a part number/bulb type for the dash bulbs in series 2 C34's... I assume they are at least the same as R34? Has anyone replaced their bulbs? I have tried LEDs but they go flaky after about 6 months. Planning to just get new bulbs as the original ones are blackening and therefore going dim. I had it in my mind that they were a T3?

Sorry to get a bit OT but do you know where these are on a S2/NEO? I've had the fuel pump out and haven't been able to find them...

Maybe you'll have some luck here... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/344636-stagea-front-assembly-rb25-and-rear-diff-craddel-with-centre/

FYI have contacted seller and NEO cover is no longer for sale

I'm no expert on '33 calipers... but perhaps if you gave some info' on them like condition, GTST or GTR, rotor size etc. it might help someone to come up with an estimate for you... though you would probably have more luck on here if you simply searched the classified threads for '33 brakes' or similar and noted the prices found therein

Update on what's still available 1/12/2010, Still available... Stock NEO coilpacks, 'silicone fix' done, 2 with rubber insulators cut short for another project... $50 all 6 - 4 left with insulators, sell all 4 for $40 Stock NEO coilpack harness. 1 or two plugs have a broken clip (see second image) so they don't 'click' but they are still a tight fit; cheap repair if your loom has had it. was on hold for another member, I just have to get around to calling him and arranging another time (sorry let me know if you still want this Jamie) Series 2 auto wheel with tiptronic buttons. Wheel only, no airbag module/plastic covers. Has some marks which I have tried to represent as accurately as possible in the pictures. Good condition overall. $100 Gabriel 143057 strut mount dust boot and bump stop kits, 2 of, as new. Test fitted but not used. Missing only a standard cable tie each, but come with two extra Monroe "strut mate" bump stops each. Cost ~$60 each from Supercheap. Suit Commondoor? $20 each Pair Kelpro steering rack boots (not for Stagea?) SRB-003 new - pair $10 Series 1 RS-Four auto complete ATTESA assembly, including working pump, and mounting frame. Note: The ATTESA accumulator unit is lacking some charge and will probably cause your ATTESA relay to click, often, as it is off my series 2. You just need to get it recharged. This should be a lot cheaper than what I have been quoted for the whole ATTESA pump assembly new from Nissan (between $6,000 and $7,000). $50 Driver's upper door seal, good condition, guessing about 150,000K's of wear (compared to mine with the same wear/condition) - $20 Sold stuff Unknown Nissan HID ballasts w/plugs. These were 'mistakenly' given to me by the compliance workshop when I requested my HID units back. Hope someone can identify the model from the part number on the ballasts. SOLD - PS. these are apparently off a Cima Series 1/Neo rocker cover with textured black finish & Stagea emblem SOLD Set of standard S2 RS-FourV (auto) front and rear struts, removed at 130,000K's about 3 months ago. In good working condition and gives a nice comfortable ride, but was too high for my liking (gave a ride height of about 390mm front & rear). SOLD Pair of standard S2 RS-FourV (auto) rear upper arms (rear camber arms) with bushes, was in good condition but needed to go adjustable arms after I upgraded my suspension - SOLD Please let me know interest/ask questions by posting here or PM - I check the forums often. thanks DaveB