DaveB

I don't know if it would help, but I think if I had these issues when the tank got low I think I would check my cradle; see that it hadn't moved from where it's supposed to be, that the pump was mounted properly, check the actual level in the tank. 'Cause even when the level is really low, the cradle generally keeps enough around the pump to keep it submersed. And I know that even when you get the cradle out of the car, it's actually pretty difficult to empty that fuel OUT. So it should still be seeing some fuel...?

We have Premimax or Premiumax or whatever it's called at the Libertys in Adelaide... I tried it and from memory wasn't much different, slightly worse economy (gotta expect that it has a higher ethanol content). Although my ECU was tuned for BP Ultimate (98).

Wow cracking plugs... this I have never heard of. All that I thought of was are/were they gapped too low??? I'm running 6 series NGK's (BCPR6E) in my series 2 gapped at 0.8mm (were missing at ~5,500rpm @ 18psi w/1mm gap... wtf) and no issues. Sounds like you've got the super-powerful version splitfires?

Absolutely; seems like good advice. Though I have kinda done everything else (or will have by this time next week) and the prospect of 10-15kw more midrange is kinda appealing (I am, of course, assuming a price for poncams well under $1,000 which means the expense and ease of install compares favourably - for me anyway - with a turbo upgrade). However from some brief research, talking to people who've done it and my own intuition, I'm thinking that torque at low-rev's would be affected. So I think the best choice for a heavy vehicle like the stagea would be either stock cams or maybe 252's (type A's) since they still have the higher lift which should help.

Hmm you're right about those Hypergears Rob. I'll have to checkout which state Status is in Though I am mainly interested in turbo mod's which will fit under the factory heatshield. PS cheers for the help freighting the CAS sensor too; I have changed it and it is running fine; unfortunately that isn't the issue with my pinging though. It does however suggest pretty stongly that a NEO RB25DE sensor is the same as a RB25DET. Someone with FAST probably already knows this lol.

Thanks for the replies all Rob I have been having issues making power and I now know why (the compression/detonation issues) so I'm only guessing at 250Rwkw ( = ~ 230awkw?) after the next tune since an R34 made 280rwkw with a manual and a GT3071. I'll be installing 600cc Deatchwerks injectors and a 2nd-hand Z32 I've had sitting around for a while (picked it up for a bargain). I've also upgraded my sidemount intercooler; that was a lot of work but worth it. Sidemount should be good for 500+hp now with less than 1/10th PSI pressure drop through the core so this shouldn't cause too much of a limitation. Certainly if I achieve anything like 250kw at all fours, I will be happy In that case, I don't think the extra 10-15kw of poncams is going to entice me to spend the extra ~$1,000. I was just interested to know if this extra power could be realised using the same turbo.

Thanks guys. I should have mentioned that my turbo is a GCG high-flow (I'm not sure what that makes the internals - 3071 or 3076? or somewhere in between). Wolverine I guess you had a manual when you changed cams? I would be interested to know how the idle affects an auto, whether it's too drastic and stalls etc. Sounds OK though. So at ~250+rwkw, which I hope to be in a couple of weeks after a tune, will I see any benefit or, at the limit of the turbo already, will it not help?

Hi all, I've been doing some research on Tomei Poncams for the NEO/R34 RB25DET. Would it be accurate to summarise?... - there are 2 styles of Tomei cams available for RB25's - Poncam (lower duration, lower lift) and Procam (higher durations available than Poncam, higher lift). The version I'm interested in is Poncam as it doesn't require valve spring upgrades etc. - the style I'm interested in, Poncams, are available in 252 degrees and 260 degrees - 260 degree cams require adjustment of valve shims to increase clearance to ?(.45mm or whatever it is Tomei specify) whereas 252 degrees don't? Basically I would like to know from those who have fitted Poncams (to any version RB25 really): - if you've gone for 260 degrees or thereabouts, how liveable is the idle, in an auto? (ie. does it stall easy, need to set idle over 1,000rpm etc?) - anyone with 252 degrees, much improvement? much difference in idle? - is shimming required? If not, is this something which could be attempted as a DIY? (I know, tuning would be required) - at what power level might one see a decent benefit, and is head porting necessary? cheers for any info

Pls put me down for 1 x sump (RB25 NEO) cheers

What about compression ratio/head differences/valves? Guess you'll just need to tune with less timing?

Interesting do you need to cut anything to fit the cooler (ie reo bar)?

Hey Mike what's going on under your rear windscreen there? Some kind of moulding? Looks awesome

What about getting hold of one of the ECUTalk displays; you can watch AAC and AFM voltage levels and see if anything goes haywire when the car cuts out? It also logs max values too. If it's AFM the AFM value may go either to ~0V or ~5V when the problem occurs.

Well pretty sure it has dayz sideskirts; and perhaps it had a lower lip spoiler before the previous owner broke it? Well done on your new RB - I think a Stagea is a fine vehicle to put one in too

The R34 momo wheel I tried on my S2 fit fine (airbag & tiptronic controls too) but it was smaller than stagea wheel, and had the R34 3-spoke design (as opposed to the stagea 4-spoke design). Just something to keep in mind; I'm pretty sure they're not exactly the same (but will work, are very similar, and some people might prefer the smaller R34 one).

Ah I see. I was just assuming it was the shafts themselves that broke; didn't consider the diff' flanges.

for RS-FourV (mine - has the 5 x 1 rear axle flanges too)... Just to confirm, because I've read somewhere about a forum member breaking rear axles on ~250rwkw, does this mean that 32gtst axles are a direct fit? Is a 32gtst axle thicker/stronger than RS4?

Will take the NEO engine cover if post is not super expensive to 5159 and it is in good condition (paint is good & no scratches? Pic?)

You can try just jap (bellmouth or blitz) or custom split pipe from AM Performance

Mine is now sold

I agree! The lens/reflector assembly is not focused for a halogen bulb (completely different) and the beam goes everywhere. Also, could someone actually show where in the ADR's it says they must be "auto levelling"? Last time I took a look the word 'auto[matic]' didn't appear IIRC...

+1 happened to me exactly the same. from memory think it was ~$450-500 for new shift solenoid rack. make sure you get the right one! ie. contact MV's

u could just be hearing compression

for fuel problems u could always try some 'start-ya-bastard'

Any possibility of photos? I assume it has valves?