DaveB

I'll take it, any chance you can post it to Adelaide 5159 by next weekend? please PM me total price including postage and payment details... cheers DaveB

Alternator gave up again tonight. Brushes don't look to be accessible without disassembling the alternator somewhat. Has anybody tried other alternator options - M35's have higher-rated alternators, and they look similar. V35 possibly higher again. Or even good old R33/R34?

Hi all, Are the brushes on the stageas alternator replaceable? Don't mind if they're part of the voltage regulator, just so long as the brushes are removable without dismantling the entire alternator. Mine are just about worn out; every now and then I have to tap the alternator with a small hammer to get the charge light to go out.

Update on the eBay link, original buyer didn't pay so they're re-listed: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251280898910?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 I still have the standard injectors.

Sorry for the late reply, I didn't get any notification email The Deatschwerks site, and my mechanic, inform me that the injectors are a drop-in replacement. Certainly I can confirm that they use the same plug (not so with the Bosch units I just had them replaced with). They will need new O-rings. Deatschwerks injectors now on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Deatschwerks-600cc-fuel-injectors-RB25-NEO-/251266014975?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a809f1eff&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1414

Hi all, I'm resurrecting an old topic here but it is slightly more relevant... does anybody know where I can get a replacement coolant bleeder plug / bleeder screw etc.? Basically the 10mm bolt which plugs the coolant bleeders (one at the front & one at the back of the intake manifold). I lost the rear one down the back of the engine @#*&$ ! I spent an hour digging through it with my bare hands; using a magnetic pokey stick; flushing it out with water to try to dislodge it etc. If anyone can be bothered FASTing it that would be great... it has a special kind of tapered washer; an ordinary bolt is a) too long and b) leaks due to missing this tapered washer. I have siliconed a bolt/washer combination in there for the time being. How annoying.

Some door mirror rust (see photos), doesn't include mirror or door card. Couple of minor pin dents which haven't bothered me, also some slight damage around the handle surround which hasn't bothered me (was like that when I got the car). Cheap replacement door if you can pick up. Asking price $100. Located in Adelaide, approx. 20km South of CBD.

For sale I have: 6 x RB25 NEO 600cc Deatschwerks injectors (done about 20,000K's? Upgraded to 800cc recently) $350/set https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxHtnLDyYDD9d2d4TnlIR2tsRVU/edit?ups=drive_web 6 x RB25 NEO standard injectors (370cc) $100/set Will be listing on eBay soon too. regards DaveB

Yes, it was a fun experiment and very satisfying when it worked (it was the first intercooler upgrade I did) and I could hear the "hisssss" when lifting off (stock BOV). But now I am going to fit a cheap-ish stealth front mount from JustJap. It is the inconsistency of the power runs which is annoying me most of all. You can tell even on the road. On paper, the W2A setup should be able to extract much more heat than A2A due to the massively increased effective surface area/specific heat of water vs air etc. But in reality it *seems* to be heat-soaking badly. Problems with pinging in 2nd (and in hot weather, 1st too). Temp's around 58 degrees in the J-pipe don't seem VERY high, but possibly they are as much as 15-20 degrees higher than people running an A2A cooler, going by the information I've gotten in this thread; and that is a big difference (about 30%+). 1 or more of my intake pipes may also be going "sucky closed under boost" (especially I suspect the reinforced flexible silicone stuff). Hopefully by replacing the lot in one go I will get rid of the pinging! Thanks for the input

Interested in turbo if it is a standard NEO turbo (OP6 housing)?

Sorry Artz, it reverted back to a private albumn for some unknown reason... fixed, and now you don't need to login with a google account The link again - don't need a google account: https://plus.google.com/photos/112306824252649146043/albums/5828868313656037249

OK so this was a long time coming... but here are some pics and details at last, pics taken when I was installing a cruise control https://plus.google....868313656037249 PS Apologies if you don't have a google account.

Yes Ben they are going for about $84 at the moment on import monster plus postage. Just check the translation and make sure it's a *conversion* harness and not an extension one.

Thanks :-)

Awesome, thanks :-)

Thanks Chris. I was going to ask where to fit the actuator in the engine bay of an RS4 C34... it's pretty packed in there I think I will have to mount mine in the cabin (under the dash). The only thing which concerns me is I don't know how noisy the unit will be when it's operating. Also, does anybody know if there is a cruise light in the dash?

True, I have been there with the old vacuum versions. A common problem with both though for me I think might be fitting the actuator somewhere in amongst all the gear in the 4WD stagea's engine bay... but will give it a shot.

Thanks for the details Chris!

Cheers Joorsh! From memory that pipe is the only one which fits under the body... and of course eBay I will check... thanks

Thanks do you remember what the site was?

Ah nice :-)

Awesome stuff guys. LOL @ the first post - 26kg of aftermarket extras! I'm planning to fit one of the JustJap stealth black intercoolers soon; I have a couple of questions I'd love if you could answer: 1. where can I get a kit for $400 (on their website they're $499) ? 2. do you need to reuse any of the intercooler piping from BELOW the chassis (eg. on the SMIC unit itself) as I think the bracket which bolts the stock pipes to the body, where it goes through the bottom of the engine bay, is attached to the original SMIC unit itself? cheers! DaveB

PS If you know where to get cans of this could you pass it on? I haven't been able to find any. ever.

Mine is a 2000 model S2 and it also says "QT1 Z" (btw Z I think means leather interior).

Yeah I thought that was rather interesting. I do remember the Z1's being LOUD! So I have put the V1's down as being "moderately loud... a bit like a wheel bearing but at a slightly higher speed".