captinsane

try the 3" fujitsubo legalis R - with a resonater and only 1 muffler - it has a nice note but isn't too loud (aka - put the stereo on about 20-25% and it's barely noticable when you try really hard to hear it) I got one bastardised from a 4door 33GTST

very noice work boys and girls - i look forward to popping by later this month

did a compression test the other day: 130-130-130-130-129-130 I brought it with 52000 on the clock - now at 67000 I think i am beginning to trust my odometer - so it looks likethere are a fair few legit low km's stageas around.

Ohh...the hopes and dreams thread... HERE WE GO::: um.. fix my cat and back zaust (kinda melting my rear bar at the moment) fix a ding from the previous owner (small bit of panel work) new spark plugs (i left the 02 sensor unplugged and i fouled my new iridiums ) big 100K service (to be safe) then dump+front (paid for, just waiting on it to be fabbed up by a mate) SK suspension kit (this year) Emanage Ultimate + tune (this year) MANUAL CONVERSION (this year) should total about 6 grand start to finish then later - when i get moneys FMIC VG30Ball bearing High flowed fuel pump, Z32, splitfires to support it etc LSD torque split controller NISMO KIT and respray guages maybe a sub

i'll come if you hold it in townsville pretty please ?????

3rd sunroof for the dogs in the boot anyone???

SAVE YOURSELF SOME TIME AND READ THIS!!!!! i better get rep points or something for this I wanted to understand this a little better so i created a table in word for you all. Please download and modify to suit your requirements I will perhaps build it with installation details alter on as i gather more information. As i have not done this modification myself i urge everyone to do their own research on this. But here it is.. might save some people some time. It contains information from 3 manual conversion threads, and covers cost and parts sourcing for all required components to complete this modification. Total cost comes to around 3.5 grand for parts. It is only 2 pages long - and should clear the air a little. Peace Out Homies MANUAL_CONVERSION_TABLE_07_06_25.doc

webnd: I have a bleed valve set @ 10psi so no dual stage boost definately more boost = more fuel pixel8r rpm is related to boost, but it is also related to load, TP etc etc... it is possible to be accelrating at 4000-5000rpm in a stock stagea and still be registering no boost, or possibly as little as 2psi... it depends on your TP, load etc etc as well... hence the reason your ecu gets tuned on a grid. It's not 'linear', it is parametric - relating to airflow, which is a rebroad minded person of TP and boost and load (and other stuff i am ignorant about). munchstagea- i agree, RPM and Injecter Duty Cycle... when on boost, you have double the airflow, and as such, you have about double the fuel to retain a good air/fuel ratio (or even more fuel as the stupid stock ECU seems determined to have your stagea run at 9:1 AF ratio when on boost) now, take into account that when cruising, say down the highway, your boost guage wuold usually read about negative 10psi or whatever it is... (mental block), right? So it stands to my reason that when acceerating at 0psi at 5000rpm your injecter duty cycle will be simlar to what your duty cycle would be at 10psi at 2500rpm (maybe change 10psi to 1 bar... i dunno) and if i remember correctly it's about 4000rpm in 3rd=100km/hr or thereabouts - so what is better for your fuel economy? if you want fuel economy... make sure your tuner works your off boost a/f map as well as the on boost ones. At least up here in TSV, people think it's sufficient to just tune the boost map grids and leave the off boost ones, which is what you would be using when driving around town anyway... lean it out, use lower gears and enjoy some fuel economy ...i think - it seems to work for me.

yeah 500 bucks min... what a rip... i would love a torque split guage, Voltage and boost, but i don't recall seeing any extra senders dangling around behind the din pockets when i did the head unit ages ago.. perhaps a better solution would either be 3 different guages w/ no torque slpit guage, or get a carputer hooked up to consult

I know i should probably ask in the wtb section, but it's stagea specific i believe... so - where should i go to chase one? just ring nengun or is there a better proprietary item? And just checking that i'm correct... stagea din guages (from the S2) show torque split, water temp and boost correct? never mind - found some on nengun for about 500... so i'll wait and start saving for them maybe... meh. feel free to delete it all - unless anyone knows of some second hand ones for sale somwehere that i have missed. Would i contact an importer for 2nd hand guages and see if they can get on to a wrecker in japan?

and i got about 265km from about 30 litres with my share of spirited driving. Mods are simply bleed valve @ 10psi, hiflow cat and back zaust, pod filter

no...cause in townsville (the land of 70kmph roundabouts, you are forever accelerating from 50km/hr to 70.. you are in overdrive, and so when you accelerate gently the torque converter takes up all the power, (you're in a high gear, with no torque lock because you have been back off the throttle). so you keep gently squeezing on the gas until you acelerate, but instead of the gears droping down into 3rd, it starts to lock up the torque converter, now if i was at 40 accelerating to 60 this wouldn't be an issue, but that extra 10km/h means that it doesn't drop down. You will be at higher revs so the turbo is ready and waiting to spool up, and it does, so instead of accelerating at 3000rpm with no boost in 3rd gear Using natural torque of the engine at 0psi and a more acceleration friendly gear ratio with the power going directly to the wheels cause the lock out torque converter is 'locking out' the slushiness you inf act are accelerating at 2500rpm with 10psi boost, the stock ECU dumping fuel into your cylinders and all the power going no-where except to the O/D If i am ever in a straight line for a bit or cruising around, i slip it into O/D for a bit, but on approaching twisties i slip it back into 3rd I am also experiment with keeping the A/T mode slector on POWER mode so that it shifts down instead of building boost, but i am finding it still seems to hold on to 3rd a little too long when doing the straight and narrow thing....although this may just come down to fine tuning my driving style when in 'POWER' mode for the auto trans. It's like Ska said when he was doing his fuel efficiency testing, he selected lower gears going up hills instead of a higher gear with more boost. Boost is what kills your fuel economy, not rpm. higher revs with no boost is better than medium revs with lots of boost and no power transfer to the wheels

caldina looks like it fell on it's face when it fell out of the ugly tree corvette stingray wageon 454b/block

i tried this...grounded the wrong wire (no boost) - then figured... bugger it, got an MBC and ran round all day with 12psi in my pocket

a mate plug and palyed his emanage ultimate into his automatic 34 GTT and it ran fine.. he just now has to get a tuner, and he is going about getting a new kick panel made up to house both ECU's. Emanage will be my preffered weapon of choice i believe.

just emailed chaser decides and media watch

From my understanding there is a second ECU in ur car that controls the ECU. Hence the reason ur throttle will flare during gear changes (there is no spark cut etc when you change gears, hence the flare). From my understanding you will be fine, then when you programme the Greddy you just select auto mode, and it adjust tps or whatever it needs to in order to accomodate the auto shifts that's what i figure anyway. I havn't done this myself. Try PM'ing haynes hunter (i think that's the correct username) as he has trial fitter an Emanage ultimate to his auto 34 GTT

what RU talking about... it's only 1.98mB i created some 1024x30000 panoramas for uni last semester

must enter some text apparently... ..ummm.... PENIS

CARPtiva FTMFW I would buy a cedric.. but i have a stagea, and i loikes it too much at the moment Nice ride Grant... enjoy it

absolutely... i wouldn't worry about the front facing plenum too much - cross over pipes still seem to work ok for these blokes (see pic attached), and the longer runners coming off the cross over manifold (as opposed to shorter runners off the side mounts on both the RB26 and 25) are supposed to give more production in torque (not that the 25 produces more torque than the 26, hell no it's a completely different engine farkin). Sure, they have a high mount intake mani, but they have spent 4+ grand on their turbo set up too it hasn't been in order to create bling cheaply or anything, it is purely practical, and a purely sexy rb25 at that also the photo is taken from the "car season" drift team's rwd S2 stagea

truth is that i would love one... but the cost of a front facing pklenum when i could spend it on something else, with the possibility of it being a crappy write off and srewing me around is not worth it for now... not for my stagea and the power target i have anyway. And the cost of going high mount, cannot be justified. I'd rather spend the money on a VG30 high flow turbo which mounts up to the stock flange, stays out of sight so no bad attention from coppas, and i'm not wasting money on stuff i don't need (again, keeping the practicability and stock power figures in mind) as i would be probably not going past 300awkw by the time i am finished and completed (unless i go rb30/26 when i am rich and a rockstar - hi5 for awesome )

High mount exh mani/turbo: if you go to high mount you will ned to get all new lines to ur turbo, new dumps, etc etc... i believe it adds close to 1grand on the cost of a turbo/exh manifold to get installed cause of new lines etc if you get it done boy others Intake plenum: i don't know - the crossover pipe is anoying, but from what i hear there are no great kw gfains over going new plenums, and i'd want it tested on a flow bench to nmake sure that i wasn't leaning out any cyclinders cause of a dodgy ebay rip off design.

ummm NO... going to 235 or 255 and bigger size rim (so lets say 17 instead of 15's or 16's[optional factory wheel] are going to give you .more traction (braking, accelerating, cornering WHATEVER!!) because of more contact with the ground .less tyre roll on cornering (cause you have less tyre wall on which to roll) .The mags i borrowed off my mate for a few days were noticably lighter than the stock ones... so it makes everything yuou just said a moot point.

they still aren't race cars tho.. remember it's still a wagon - If you want to do stupid crazy things (yay*goteam for awesome) then get the autech and have a wagon that is not a wagon, or drive a waogn unlike a wagon - you get the drift Or get the RS4 and get a wagon that still is a wagon but is a fun wagon nonetheless - an awesome still - but not an autech and still a wagon They still weight shoite loads - no matter what one you get The still ahve aerodynamics of a tuissue box - no matter which one you get They are still domestic (albeit domestic disorder style domestic) no matter which one you get. Given the choice i would have gone the 260RS - but i do not have that much money ... yet look at paying double the price for the 260RS Am i making sense???