bigkevracer

Had a look at doing the wire snip, because I've been slack and haven't it yet. Are you guys just cutting back the covering on the ECU harness and cutting the pink wire with the blue line? Its not as if you can cut pin 55 directly... Im just going to cut it in the morning then wire up a switch later in the week.

Did you ever get your Vmanage working Scott? I'd imagine you'd only really need to adjust the cams if you went aftermarket/aggressive anyway? Merry Christmas!

Looked the same bar a couple of markings. Diode on the outside. 5 pins. Works like a charm.

Replaced the AFM this morning, and she roars into life! I don't know what kind of Nissan engineer thought it needed security bolts... guess its so they can sell the whole tube. Also the part number I received ended in 61A, not 611, for other people's info.

Interesting review. If you do the dump pipe and exhaust, and the brake wire cut mod, I'd be interested to see this review again after...

Isn't the problem diameter not weight on a roller dyno?

With a high flow panel filter, dump and exhaust, I was making 166kW atw. Pod filter won't make much difference on standard ECU and suction pipe, so you'd be about there. Not sure if the intercooler will make any difference in these? After I did all that, I was also making 15PSI. If yours is a 250t RS Four (which is what I've got), I think you're at 12PSI stock, and if you've got a decent dump and exhaust you'd probably be making 14-15PSI. I'm leaving mine at 15 until I'm ready to upgrade the turbo. Scotty has run his on a standard turbo at 20PSI. There are a lot of other mods you can make, depends on what you want to do, what you want out of the car, and how much money you've got. Do a search and you'll find a lot of info.

Ok well if it falls through pm me!

Any pics of the radiator? What's the difference with that and a standard M35 one?

Yeah thats what I figured, but maybe he was after just mounts, so he could run different gauges?

What gauges do you need?

Hey Nick. Leon supplies the stalk too (which you need temporarily to program it). I think there's someone over in the other forums who has fitted the stalk because they had a Momo wheel. This should also make it cheaper because you won't need the OEM buttons. Hope that helps!

There's a set of Axis wheels on ebay at the moment. For gauge holder, try Yahoo Auctions Japan. I know they regularly have the Nismo ones.

If that's all thats causing the CEL, why don't you just run a wideband with a programmable narrowband output and feed that into the ECU so it thinks there's an O2 sensor? The AEM and Innovate ones do this I'm pretty sure?

$240 trade from Nissan for the AFM, and it'll be in tomorrow. I can probably get it cheaper from the US, but by the time you pay for freight, and have to wait for it over Christmas, I figured it was worth it to get it this week.

Just picked up the same one, looks like a great kit! Where are M35 owners mounting theirs? I thought I'd fit it next to the DVD-ROM above the glovebox, but it doesn't fit (unless I cut into the ribs of the cover, that is...)

Leon (Commsman) does it, and he's posted a big explanation recently. If you do a search you'll find it, but it should only be back a page or two. Think it was in the G-Zone thread maybe?

How did I know you'd bring that up? Cheers for the part numbers guys, will order one tomorrow. As for whether it's the pod's fault, I was planning on replacing it so I might get that nutted and see if another one goes. For all I know it's still the original AFM, so I'm not too worried yet.

Im a no go until I get a new AFM. Sorry!

Yeah I found that post too, thanks Leon. Only thing is I've found the 6N211 is ~$200, and the 6N201 is ~$80. Big difference in price for a hotwire. Iain thinks they're ~$300+ RRP from Nissan, have to check with them Monday. I'll check the local wreckers but last time I called them they tried to shaft me big time.

Mine started doing the same thing this morning. Started fine, CEL came on, then got half way down the street when I realised I couldn't rev above 2100. As soon as I happened I figured it was the AFM, I was just hoping someone could confirm the part number. I've seen 22680-6N211 bandied about, and cheapest I can find it for is $202 (http://www.g35parts.com/Nissan-part-number-22680-6N211-p/22680-6n211.htm) However there is another thread where 22680 6N201 is quoted, which is HEAPS cheaper (http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=22680+6N201&_sacat=See-All-Categories). Can anyone confirm what the right part number is, and how much I can expect to pay? If anyone has a working spare now's the time to speak up! As soon as I get the Fcon in I'll be running the MAP sensor anyway, just need one to see me through about 1-2 months.

Pretty sure it is. I replaced mine and the farting stopped. Is it possible the bov is doing something to the wastegate?

Nice! Ive got the T3s and a much better package than I had. Did you change the fluid yet? Ive got some fluid and lines to go in still, should improve pedal feel.

Super Cheap have Pioneer's for an extra $5? Anything around that price range should be fine if you're only running off the headunit, but I do hear mixed things on the Fusions. Don't want them to rattle themselves apart, just want them to make noise without being annoying

Sounds good... how much?