psi

The darker plug is the original unit. I could have used the original plug but I had tapped just a little too far into it when I removed it. The thick end of the plug is 12mm long. So, If you dont want to make a new plug, dont tap that far down. I then drilled a 2mm hole down the cam buckets end (in the new plug) and then drilled a 1.5mm hole to allow oil into the passage where I wanted the oil! Jobs done, re-insert the plug and continue on your merry way!

I think there was a thread on this in the forced area.. At work we fitted a HX35 to a 10L engine a while back.. works great on it too! I think there are 7(?) varieties of it.. 5~7 compressor blades and different turbine options... (I think?) Good strong construction.. lots of parts, after all, its a tried and prooven turbo on a diesel, should work fine on an RB!

Hey Bubba, what did you pull the diff out of? Were you able to take the speedo drive as well? You also said that the car pulls from 2000rpm, what turbo? cheers

cheers, thanks for the advise. Plan to start on that (maybe tomorrow). Will take pics and show everybody else what i did!

where you reading the GTS-T parts list or the GTR? Cos the 32GTR has a Z9. That may be what threw you.. RB30 takes Z145A!

4.3? mine is 4.1. Well thats what the compliance plate says. My Freinds S2 Stagea (Auto) has a 4.0 according to the plate.. I had the diff apart the other day and it never accured to me to count the teeth! I was looking at something around the 3.6~3.7 area. The humble old VL had 3.45 and the R31 had 3.7. If that is what the factory did, then perhaps I may follow their lead.. I have 2 diffs, so if I don't like the out come, I can always swap it back! lol.

I am getting oil from inside the head. No external oil lines. Nobody will ever know its there! The coloured plug is coming out and I am going to machine a new plug out of brass to go back in there. The new plug will get oil from the oil rail that supplies oil to the cam buckets. The new plug with have a hole in it and the VVT will work as per normal. No where for oil to leek, keeps things neat and tidy because there is nothing to look at! The new plug will be hidden behind the cam gear, you would only ever see the plug if you took the cam gear off and actually see the end of the little brass plug..

While the head is apart, I got the die grinder up into the oil return ports.. the foto isn't real clear, but have a look in yours and you will see what I am on about, It looks like a monkey made the holes!

Yea hang on! I forgot to resize them..! This is the plug

You can see the old hole

Ok, I am wanted to run my RB30Det to look stock. So, after I got an idea from someone on here, this is what I've started! The first photo is of the welded oil gallery that feeds oil from the RB25 Block and supplies oil to the VVT. The RB30 block only has a water jacket there and most people weld this hole anyway. You could add a grub screw instead of welding, but I know that the weld is there for good and it is metal a very long way down the gallery! The second photo is of the plug that is coming out (orange bit) to allow me access to the oil rail that feeds oil to the cam buckets.. I will be making a 'plug' that will fit in here next week (I hope!) and I will show a step by step account of how I did it all..

My mate has a pair of R34 N1's?

U and I r thinking the same way... I could use a higher gear when I'm skidding, but that will not help me when i'm cruising. and with all that extra torque, I cant see why i will need the lower diff ratio. And if I'm gonna bother with a ratio change, I'll also get a Kaaz LSD for it and grab the sender for the speedo.. I am actually surprised nobody has done this yet!

I have a big single turbo, jam that on a little engine like the RB25 and you dont get midrange. We all hear what you are saying, but to some of us, that midrange torque is not really an issue... I have driven a few GTR's with similar power to my 25, and they ALL kill my engine in throatle response. Seeing as my head is still at the machine shop, this mod looks like the perfect thing to do! Kill a bunch of issues while everything is apart and go for broke! Thanks for the idea, PLEASE keep posting up pics and pit falls!

The beauty of building a modern boosted car is that you can usually get a 'best of both worlds' approach happening. Sure I love horsepower, and yes, like everybody else, I dont want to be mindlessly pouring cash into the fuel tank.. So, If the RB30det produces 50~100% (give or take) more torque, Then I think (if it was a factory option) it would have been given taller gears to spead the torque curve and not have rev the poor thing to hard. The car sees LOTS of skid days. LOTS! I am usually just nudging the 7800 limiter. No, not bouncing! I am not wanting to cain the daylights out of an engine that will happily supply the torque required (to spin the wheels at the speed I am wanting) at much lower revs.. So, by the info above, I should be able to track bown a skyline with the right gears and steal the speedo sender while I'm there. On this note, I think I should be able to retain my best of both worlds concept! Thanks

Has anybody swaped to a higher diff ratio to make use of the extra torque? My R33 revs faily well on the hi-way, and before I add the new engine, I have been thinking about putting taller diff gears in it. something like 3.7:1 Also, with the extra torque and higher gears, i think it would get better fuel mileage on cruise... what nissan runs a ratio like that, and can we pinch the speedo drive?

the block has completly stock everything atm (226 000km on it! not going to refresh it), going to just run it to see how well it goes, if it works as well as I hope, I will start on 'built' engine. But this mongrel head is being a pain in the butt. If its not sorted in a few weeks I will buy another head and go nuts on it! Thanks for the input. Got any links to a compression calculator? cheers

Think outside box alittle bit.. low fuel consumption from the engine, same fuel pressure and volume from the pump = most of the fuel is getting heated in the fuel rail and is then getting sent back to the tank (over pumped), recycled and pumped up again. On a nice cruise the fuel gets 'hot' and the problems unfold. Its not about the pump, more about the the flow rate and the engine just doesn't require that much fuel at very light throttle, so the fuel reg just bypasses it and sends it back. a smaller pump would have less return flow, but wont have the flow for max engine output. that make sense?

Correct me if i have this wrong: you already have a healthy Neo 25, buying dirt cheap 26 (busted) because want to join them so you can take advantage of the multi-throttles? is that correct? is that the only reason for your conversion? If that is so, then there are businesses that do a conversion for this. They make an adaptor plate that join the 25 to the GTR plenum.. then just add the GTR covers and most people could not tell the difference. It will be cheaper than pistons and a bebuild. That will give you a best of both worlds approach with-out all the headaches. Or, I have a spare RB30! join 30 to your 26 and go really nuts! Yes I will ship it if you want.. (somehow) lol.

c'mon guys.. surely somebody has done a head shave and checked all the clearances?

Cheers Al, do you make it with a bung hole so you can adjust the belt tension without stripping everything?

Ok, there are a few things that i would like to add. Only one person asked for the 90 speed limit. I know the person and i couldn't disagree with them more. It just took one flog bag. the 90 limit sucks, but only adds 4min when you do the maths. But I have yet to cruise through there in that time frame. If you really want to stop the road toll, teach the idiots to drive. Its that simple. road surfaces in QLD suck, but they dont kill people. if its raining, you drive slower, if it hails, you crawl or stop. So, if your on crap road, leave some space, and get home alive..! The only way this will be lifted is: 1: more people die, even in the 90 zone 2: massive public back lash. I know which one i want to see..

I have been looking at this issue. I was going to ask the same question. Do you guys bother trying to 'cover' the idler, or just leave it hanging in free air? how does the belt go with road grime and stuff? cheers

there are already threads about the belt tension positions.. have you read the guide? As for your block, it sounds like you have what is called a series 1 RB30, they are the blocks without all the holes that you really want! No fear, you can either machine them into the block, or by-pass them and get oil from the oil switch and return it into the sump. I did the later in a VL when I converted it a few years back. The best option is to put them in where they really belong. If you go the later way, make sure you put the oil return as far above the oil level in the sump as you can. the fitting will need to be heat proof and oil proof (like a welded in fitting). Oil leaking there will really get to you! As for water lines, get them from the plenum side of the engine somewhere and run them to the turbo. Be extra carful to stay away from hot bits and things that can chafe.. happy boosting

yea , I am aware of all you said. They sometimes 'pull' the lifter bores out of round and valve guides can fall out as well! All of which I am aware of.. thanks for the heads up. Yes, he is doing all that plus a cc check, pressure check and crack test before any machining takes place.. The old owner must have had an issue, cos the deck face is flat as, but the cam journals are a bit out. We are thinking that the old engine had an issue and he just skimmed the head and away he went without checking anything else.. So the question still remains, after i get all the other stuff fixed, how much can be shaved off the face? has somebody done a valve to piston check? does someone know the answer I am after?