psi

I have been through a similar line of thought with a past vehicle.. this time, I'm going to make it look like the engine is standard and restamp my 'old' numbers into the 'new' block. Not exactly what you were after, i know. But been there, done that before. Cost me a bit to much coin and wasted a few days for my efforts.. Please let us all know how you get on..

Ok, The long and the short of this little tale is that the head I have has a bit of a bow in it.. My machinest can straighten this, and re-cut the valves and all that other stuff, But the question that I really need to know the answer to is how much can I safely shave off the face after all the other work is done? its a stock RB30 bottem end, stock 25det head. Stock head gasget, stock valves, stock cams (Planning on pon cams during the year!) I would like to raise the compression if possable, can you guys help?

Dont ya just love RB blocks! Yes, not all the blocks have the oil passages that go through! I have seen this before in my wifes old VL. It had me stumped for awhile.. So I just 'T'ed into the oil pressure switch on the other side of the block and got oil from there and screwed the oil pressure switch back in. Boom shuck a luck, Turbo had oil and no idiot lights glowing in the dash. As for drilling out the hole to nowhere.. I nearly did that, I looked at another block that had the oil gallery that went through and I was just going to copy it. My machinest said that I could do it, just drill through until I hit the oil gallery that it was supposed to join up to. But be very careful not to deviate or.. acutually I cant remember why! Does your block have the oil return just above the sump line like all the other RB's, or does it have a blank 'pad' that looks like it was supposed to be drilled and tapped? If that is the case.. save yourself the pain, get the machinest to do that as well! You can do it if you have the tools, but if you dont, it will probably cost you more to buy the tools and do the job yourself!

thanks, but I found that out yesterday. I was making around with it and discovered that my first thoughts were not correct. Was going to post up my findings but you beat me to it! Cheers for the info mate. When I have finished playing with all the bits, I'll stick up the pics. In my case, I have a few reasons for doing this mod: 1: so nobody (unless RB wise) will have a clue what they are looking at because the conversion will look the same as the RB25. 2: No extra external fittings that I need to be buy or have any chance of leaking! 3: Was going to delete an oil feed, this way I can kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

The oil pump is only one part in a whole oil system. You also have to look at galleries, restrictors, coolers, oil temps, extra oil supply (turbo's, squirters), sump design and volume, oil return lines, engine condition, revs, oil viscosity, bearing clearnances.. bla bla bla. Its a whole system. An N1 pump in a stock motor doing stock tasks will probably have issues. Same as a stock RB30e doing 8000+ rpm in a fully prepped race engine will have issues. horses for courses! In my case, I'm building my 25/30 with the stock 25 pump at stock oil pressures. The engine consumes no more oil than the stock 25 does, and it will actually see LESS revs. So I am of the thinking that buying a larger oil pump will not help me do what I am asking of the engine. The other thing to consider is that every part connected to the engine sucks horsepower. More oil pressure means it draws more horsepower to make that higher oil pressure. Water pumps use a little bit as do alternators. Some drag racers ditch these things to get every last bit from a maximium output eninge.. That said, the very last thing you want to do is run out of oil pressure! if it goes Ka-Booom, say good by to lots of $$$$$!

doing this mod, the VCT will work as normal.. The oil gallery that feeds the cam buckets will now also supply oil to the VCT. This removes the need for an external oil feed, and also will reduce the amount of oil going to the top end! so I will not be replacing any of the oil restrictors. by doing this, it appears that the the solinoid may actually work backwards due to the reverse flow of the oil through it, however this will be easy fixed the ecu switching when it gets tuned.. I will be taking my head to get the orginal oil feed port welded today, and a surface grind. Will post pics soon of the bits I have done and plan to change. that help?

bump..

Yep, I agree with the above statement. Why do they run such high pressure stanard? hmm.. dunno? If the releif spring is set at 100psi, perhaps they are thinking you are going to be pulling 10 000rpm? Or want you to break other parts so you are then tempted to buy more parts from them.. lol 10PSI per 1000rpm is a good ball park from what we have done.. We actually ended up with less oil pressure than the rule of thumb. Bear in mind, that was non-turbo, and only did hard revs.(no stop start stuff like a street car) However, the engine was running insane comp ratio, so the big ends were certainly getting their fair share of hard work.

90psi oil pressure? wow, thats high. On the old speedway engine RB30e, we used to shave the shim to reduce the oil pressure slightly. This made the pump happier (they sometimes cracked) and reduced pumping losses. never killed an engine from a lack of oil pressure or supply like this. but if you want high oil pressure, go for it.

Bump.. I should be able to arrange cheap freight to Brissbane, or sunny coast, or fraser coast.. Anybody want it?

Ok, I have my head in bits (needs help poor thing!), so, while its all apart, I'm going to do this mod. Its exactly what i was already looking at doing. Great minds ehh? I will track the oil feeds and stuff and activate the solinoid just to check all is well before its all put back together. I will take photo's along the way.. The best part is, with out the external feed in sight, who would ever know what they are looking at? hehe Thanks for the tips..

bumps... anybody know of a 350Z forum?

bump? Pric drop, $900

I have found that bigger turbo's with low boost make heaps of wastegate air. So if the gate is too small, and or the waste gate dump is to small, the issue comes where the gate cannot dump enough gas to stop the turbo from spooling up.

Will trade for Apexi cams or something..?

Bumps! I need it gone!

any offers?

interested in the AFM and pod. do you also have a hose or connector that will join the AFM to 100mm pipe? does the AFM have a wiring plug? Cheers

Like title. Kaaz LSD. 2 way. Part no: SAN3510 Still wrapped in box, with Kaaz oil and instructions. A few tiny little marks on hemisphere from doing a trail fit. Bought it for an R33, but doesn't fit. The Kaaz site says its for a VQ35. $1000. PM me, or: [email protected]

dohoo, found the thread! sorry guys. More inspiration than ever! I seem to have got some more Q'snow than when I started.. Will read on.. My eyes hurt! lol cheeers

As far as main roads and cops go, if you have the better vehicle (V8 turbo or supercharged) and you reduce it back to the base model, as in V6, non-turbo or non-supercharged, they dont care. The vehicle says its a turbo car, then thats that! Sorry.. It is, and always will be that class of car even if the parts are not there. Insurance? hmm, I would not want to guess on that one, you are lowering its performance, but you are modifing it. It will have the better brakes and suspension though...

ohh, will the stock intake manifold hit the bonnet? I know this is probably covered somewhere, so can somebody give me a link or thread to go and inspire me and my mate a little further? Thanks

Well bugger me! I have had a series 2 RB30e block in the shed for about 4 years, wanting to do this project.. What stopped me was I was going to add new pistons and rods.. Looks like I'm about to get busey! I have an R33, have big turbo, have apexi have $700 in the bank!.. hmmm.. Thanks for the inspiration guys! I will go chat with my mechanic mate on monday.

Sorry mate.. He couldn't get hold of you and bought a supra..

2008 SlidWize skid season is finished. Leigh in his Supra won the piston trophy, he was coming second in the points and dug deep. The three other cars at the top of the ladder board just couldn't crack the same pace.. To those who remain calm and consistant gain the spoils. SAU will have their own championship trophy for the 3 skid dates in 2009. This will sort the drivers from the drovers! After 7 skid days this year, only one car suffered a serious malfunction. A busted gearbox! This was mainly due to neglect and cronic abuse.. it did manage to drive away from the skid pan! (not sure how far it went!) Thanks to all the sponsors. Thanks to all who came skidding.. Aaron